uman1030

You would probably have more luck buying a whole set. I know you only need the one but unless some one has a set already missing one, its unlikely they will want to split them up. Try ebay if you have no luck here.

clearly the reply of a parts changer.

only has Red and Orange now, hoods only. $325 Damn i wanted Blue

how much were the hoods and rears?

http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html scroll about 3/4 down the page and there is this. When using this method i find they usually air on the side of too rich. Its just a baseline and it will probably be slightly leaner mains then this suggests Assuming that your jetting is dialed in perfectly, add the following for each mod: Air filter Remove snorkel:1-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Remove airbox lid:1-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add foam air filter:0-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add K&N air filter:4-6 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add 2 into 1 Foam air filter OR dual carb-mounted foam filters (removing entire airbox, NOT in addition to removing snorkel and airbox lid above):2-4 sizes larger on mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add Dual K&N carb-mounted air filters (no airbox, NOT in addition to removing snorkel and airbox lid above):4-7 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add Outerwear:no change Add TORS elimination kit:no change Pipes Add Pipes & silencers (all except 2 into 1 pipes):8 sizes larger on the mains, 2 sizes larger on the pilots, adjust airscrews Note:Some pipes, like CPI and other “drag” pipes, may need even larger mains, midrange pipes may only need one size larger on the pilots Add 2 into 1 Pipe & silencer:4-5 sizes larger on the mains, 0-1 sizes larger on the pilots, adjust airscrews Reeds Add Reeds, Aftermarket reed cage, or Ported reed cage:Move needle clip one position leaner, adjust airscrews, 0-2 sizes larger on the pilots Electrical Add Degree key or Timing plate with advanced ignition timing:0-1 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Switch coil wires (A lot of Banshees come from the factory with the orange positive wire on the “-“ terminal of the coil, and the black ground wire on the “+” terminal of the coil, switching the wires would put orange on “+” and black on “-“):0-1 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add Aftermarket ignition system:4-8 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Compression Add Coolhead with smaller domes or shave stock head:no change (be advised that your octane requirements may change) Miscellaneous Overbore:no change Re-ring pistons:no change Forged pistons (stock crown, port timing and pin location):no change Weld crank/rebuild crank:no change Lighten flywheel:no change Rewind stator:no change Boost bottle/aftermarket intake manifold:no change Clutch/transmission:no change Elevation For every 1500-2000’ above sea level, add to above:1 size smaller on the mains, adjust airscrews For every 1500-2000’ change in elevation after jetting is dialed in:1 size smaller on mains for higher elevation, 1 size smaller on mains for lower elevation, adjust airscrews Temperature For 60-90 degrees F:no change to above For every 20-30 degrees F colder than 60:1 size larger on the mains, adjust airscrews For every 20-30 degrees F warmer than 90:1 size smaller on the mains, adjust airscrews For every 20-30 degrees F temp change after jetting is dialed in:1 size larger on mains for colder temp, 1 size smaller on mains for warmer temp, adjust airscrews Humidity Very low humidity to very high humidity:0-2 sizes smaller on mains, adjust airscrews Very high humidity to very low humidity:0-2 sizes larger on mains, adjust airscrews Premix Ratio 32:1 ratio:no change to above Higher ratio (40:1, 50:1, etc.):0-2 sizes smaller on mains, adjust airscrews Lower ratio (20:1, 24:1, etc.):0-2 sizes larger on mains, adjust airscrews Example Your Banshee is bone stock, 32:1 premix, you’re at sea level and it’s 60-80 degrees. You add a K&N air filter, remove the airbox snorkel, remove the airbox lid, and mount Pro Circuit pipes & silencers. IF your current jetting is 25 pilot, 200 mains, start by going up to 340 main jets (14 sizes larger; 8 for pipes, 4 for K&N, 1 for snorkel, 1 for airbox lid), 30 pilots (2 sizes larger for the pipes), leave the needle clip in the stock location, and start with the airscrews 1.5 turns out. If you got some reeds at the same time, everything would be the same except you’d start with the needle one clip position leaner than stock.

Same clutch springs and cable?

Yes! Doesnt the oil pump usually sit there?

stock cylinders? if not what kind? What size stroke? If it falls on its face then its probably jetting not pipes. Have you looked into what jets it has? pipes wont make it cut out they just wont give you the gains you could have with other pipes.

what is your compression? what type of domes in your cool head? With toomey pipes its very doubtful its 70 hp or more not unheard of but they are not really Drag pipes. Also if its stock cylinder on pump gas stock stroke then its probably well under 70

How many HP is your engine? Stock carbs are good in to the 70 hp range.. Are you sure you want new carbs when stockers will do just fine? no benefit really if your under 70hpish

Make sure you check compression before you run it. The 20cc domes will probably put you just over the premium gas marker. Needing more octane then pump gas but not straight race fuel. Especially with any type of timing advance. You didn't list what type of air filters, your altitude or temperature. VF4's require larger then stock pilots Toomey recomends with t5 pipes and their airbox mods at average temps(what ever they consider average) I would assume open airbox would be very similar in air flow to their mods. Little rich is better then too lean always! 280 up to 2500ft ASL Needle clip on 4th position Airscrew 1.5 turns out

In the end i think its personal preference. The Pjs Idle is adjusted with the choke knob which is the most common complaint. Some claim that the PWK offers better response due to their D shaped Slide design.

Tapping it will usually let a sticking needle valve seat correctly. Rarely fixes it for good as there is a reason its not seating correctly. Possibly some debri keeping needle valve from seating correctly. Take apart your carb look at the jet needle valve and clean it, also see if it looks worn. The tip is made of viton. After years of sitting in fuel it can get hard and not seal correctly. It should be flexible as its rubber. Could also be float level. Needle valve/seat are one of the few things i actually do replace when "rebuilding" these carbs most everything else can just be cleaned thoroughly. the seat and valve are about $15 alone wich is about the price of the cheap rebuild kits that also include stock jets, needle and gaskets so i usually just buy the rebuild kit and toss the other crap in the parts drawer.

Have you tried swapping the wires? to see if the issue changes sides? What type of pipes are you running? are you sure they are free from obstructions and good silencer packing. Running super rich can cause them to get oil filled and block exhaust flow. Did you change to the proper fuel octane, premium pump gas? Higher octane fuel requires more compression and timing to ignite properly. Using too high of an octane results in more unburnt fuel (see the above statement about your muffler packing) are you running the airbox with the lid on? if so your jetting may be a little fat for that amount of airflow dependent on your temperature and altitude. Higher altitudes require smaller jets at 3200 ASL you would need smaller jets then a similar engine at a lower altitude, As stated above your lean on the pilot. Vf4's especially need a larger pilot jet. your altitude may not require the usual 30 but possible a 27.5 Just for reference, what is your needle clip set at?

around 20-25 psi give or take. on a stock stroke/bore engine when going from stock head. depending on altitude. the higher the altitude the less it raises the compression.

20mm-22mm

I thought it would be odd for them to be diffrent shades but every single ebay pic and even on the atv galaxy site shows them as such. This is the Tech 3s not the cf1's http://atvgalaxy.com/wheels-tires.html?manufacture=27 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hiper-Tech-3-Rims-10-Front-9-Rear-10x5-9x8-BLACK-Yamaha-YFZ450-YFZ450R-YFZ450X-/400429360493?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3b73256d&vxp=mtr

Also i notice that in all the sets i see, the pictures seem to show the front rims as being a flat black and the rears more of a gloss black. Is this actual? Are they really a different shade of black from front to back? I have a 10% up to $100 coupon on ebay thats only good for 3 more hours. Want to buy a set but i think they are only single beadlocks and I want rear double beadlock. Im sure i won't get a reply back before coupon expires...

Saw this thread and double checked it against Sudco site just to make sure. I ended up buying one off Amazon and an adapter plate off Ebay, which unlike the non reserve style isn't included. Was around $140 all said and done but i got the chrome one.

cheapest place i found one new no reserve $85 http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900121581

I was talking about the parking brake switch thats on the clutch lever. unplug it and toss the switch.

Thats a whole lot of carb for that bike!

unplug that switch at the connector

↑ agree with this 1/2 turn out seems too rich on the A/F screw with a 30 pilot installed.