uman1030

FMF pipes call for a 30 pilot directly on their website. If a 27.5 was too rich then your air fuel screws are not adjusted properly.

I run 30/300, 3rd clip with same pipes at 800 ft asl. It's near perfect, a hair rich in the hotter months but hasn't fouled a plug. Also as already mentioned FMF recommends a 30 pilot on their site.

Absolutely, try jumping up to a 27.5 or 30 and adjust your air/fuel screws. i use 30s myself. Vf4s are known to like more fuel in the idle circuit.

You can use Taptalk on your cell phone to post pics.

Learned my lesson the other day with a new pingel! After installing one, It is a good idea to only add a dash of gas first and check for leaks. I did not do this! I have an oversized tank and i just started topping it off. Near the 5+ gallon mark some one said, "your leaking gas". I look and sure enough a puddle was forming fast. I made sure it was shut off but touching it just made it leak more. It was obvious it was leaking from the gasket and at a descent rate and in my cousins driveway. I had to remove the tank as fast as i could with what little tools were available. I put a bolt in the gas cap overflow tube to plug it and tipped the tank upside down remove the pingel with the tank still full. Quick inspection showed there was a bur of plastic from my obviously inferior cutting job. Sanded it smooth and put gasket back on and it sealed fine.

Take the spark plug boots off. Trim back the wire some and reinstall the boot/cap.

You forgot to mention if it passed a leakdown test!

I have the brass. I can adjust them and at the throttle assembly and make it tight enough to raise the slides slightly. Even then it lacks just a hair to be full. And when slack is set correctly it seems as though the throttle just doesn't have enough throw. I do have some silver adjusters on some other caps i think if those are longer i may see if those change anything, but as i said it doesn't seem to be a slack adjustment issue as much as just not enough throw on the lever. has me kinda stumped.

Installed engine and carbs today. hooked up throttle cable and i was "presyncing" them by eye and and adjusting the cable. I notice that I dont have enough throw in my stock thumb throttle to move the carbs slides to WOT. The slides are about 1/16-1/8th from WOT when the thumb lever is maxed. I can stick my finger in the air filter side of carb and push the slides up to show it is not 100% WOT. This is a brand new cable never used that i bought for stock carbs but had not opened yet. Ive removed the throttle limiting screw on the thumb throttle but there is a small backstop on the thumb throttle that limits it regardless. I have tried adjusting it at the top of carbs and the handle bar slack adjuster and while i can take all the slack out and make the cable tight enough to raise the slides(obviously over tight) even then it still doesnt have enough throw to move my PWK 35mm's to WOT. any tips? is there a special cable or do i need a different throttle assembly?

Viton IS synthetic rubber which is the rubber i spoke of. the very tip should be composed of it. Missed the being brand new part at first... If the carbs are brand new the seats shouldnt be worn and sticking/leaking but obviously not impossible. I would guess improper float height or debri in the seat area.

If the float height is correct but it still overflows gas you may need to replace the needle valve and seat. The seat and valve can get worn and cause the float to stick. The tip of needle is made of a special rubber wich can harden with age and also cause sealing issues, You can try cleaning it as just a granule of dirt caught in the seat will keep it from sealing. I would just replace them on both carbs, check float height and seal them back up and be done with it personally. Usually a few taps with the handle of a screw driver on the float bowl will get it to stop leaking momentarily.

I have a contour as well and it works great. I lost my go pro riding also. Buddy offered me his contour roam 1 but the picture quality wasn't as good as the go pro. I did some research and I found a firmware hack that unlocked the lesser version Contour roam 1 to have the same 60 fps as the Roam 2. http://www.wikihow.com/Mod-a-Contour-Roam-to-60Fps

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

There is two blue wires. One goes to tail light and another blue wire goes to the voltage regulator. Voltage regulator stock position is in the rear near the cdi (underneath center of rear fender/grab bar area) to the right of it when looking at the bike from the rear. Its a small silver box with a blue wire.

You can just leave it unplugged and just leave it alone. You could at least tape them up so they cant get debris in it or make contact with anything. Some people like to "clean up" the harness. Cut all the useless shit off and remove plugs and wires they don't need and tape up or shrink wrap it to make a cleaner looking harness. Also one of the sponsors offers premade harnesses shipped to your door in many different styles http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171455&p=1542180 FMF recommends 30/260/3rd clip http://www.fmfracing.com/RiderSupport/JettingCenter but these recommendations are most likely for a completely stock airbox. I run 30/300/3rd clip with FMF fatty's +4 timing on a stocker myself with good success.(W/no airbox lid)

The crush washer on the spark plug if tightened correctly should keep it from leaking I would think? Unless, the surface the crush washer contacts is blemished in some way so it cant seal..

Guess your right its on the carb not the bowl that there is an added copper tube for the choke. The bowl that goes on the choke side has a small bebe in the area I circled in the pic. It also had a casting number 1-1. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

What is your jetting at. pilot/clip/main. ↑↑ this? When you cleaned the carbs did you put the appropriate bowl back onto the appropriate carb? One bowl has a copper tube which goes on to the carb that has the choke plunger.

http://www.mt-llc.com/cylservice.php

You do both cylinders at once by sealing both exhaust ports and one intake then clamp your leakdown tester into the open intake boot and clamp id down. then compressed air is used to pressurize the engine to ONLY 6lbs and it should be able to hold that pressure for 6 minutes Here are a couple of threads that show how to make one yourself but you can also usually get one from ebay or a member on here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585&p=961759 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49835&p=409620

Any time you rebuild a motor(or replace gaskets) you should do a leak down test.If you haven't done this and your experiencing running problems already then your just risking blowing your top end. Do a leak down test and also a compression test. Air leaks and low compression can cause it to be hard to start cause it wont draw enough fuel into the engine when kicking it over. Leakdown test Compression test Clean carburetors, REMOVE jets and clean them and write down what jets you have installed.(this will help if its a carburetor issue)

http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html should help you with testing the electrical system. Unplug the Tors brain to rule that out as a cause if it is still connected.

Did you do a leakdown test? Reed gaskets may be leaking after replacing the reeds causing an air leak, making it hard to start.

Got them all sealed up and it was much easier then i anticipated. After i went and got a quality 3/8's 12pt socket that fit the bolts better(2 others I had were just too loose and began to slip when attempting to torque them.) Undid the bolts around the beadlock ring, removed ring and inspected surface area. Blew it off with air and replaced ring torquing it in 2 stages 5lbs then 10lbs. After i looked i could see the ring wasn't evenly seated in some areas there was a tiny gap. I went to 11 lbs and it was fully seated evenly and held air perfectly. I just did the rest of them with 2 torquing stages 5lbs then 11lbs. So far so good no leaks and i didn't even use the bead sealer i bought with the socket. They look pretty sweet im very happy. The Holeshot HD's are super thick, going to be a great trail wheel/tire combo