uman1030

Got a reply back from crank works and lawd is that shit expensive! new cranks basically $400 having one rebuilt could cost that much plus what ever you paid for the used one you have. We charge $185.00 labor to inspect and rebuild. Main bearings are $24.00 each ($96.00 for all 4). If you need new rod kits they run about $105.00 each ($210.00 for both). Thank you, Crank Works, Inc.

Kind of what I figured. Wish I wouldn't have bought the used crank at this point, the savings was minimal compared to the risk. I did contact crankworks to see about a price on rebuild I may go that route just for peace of mind. When browsing sponsors I didnt see any one offering crank rebuilds but may have missed it if any one wants to point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Getting ready to do a full rebuild for my first time on the ole Banshee. Ive have been building motors for many years now. Tons of small 2 and 4 stroke engines and automobile engines. I am pretty familiar with most aspects of mechanics and tools as its part of my trade but ive never actually split the cases on my Banshee. I'm very confident with this project as i can disassemble and reassemble about anything but id like to possibly have some advice from some of the more qualified people on this forum as to some of the do's and donts and common mistakes that happen and also some tips of things not to forget or may not be mentioned in the service manual or possibly an easier method used by skilled builders. Ive been doing a lot of reading of different walk-through and helpful posts and i have alot of ideas and thoughts but im sure they're are some helpful tips still out there I have missed. First id like to put together a list of small stuff i would need to order before hand. Like some of the OEM stuff like the locking bend tab washers, full gasket/seal kit and threebond 1211 case sealer. Things of this nature. Including some of the minor upgrades people have found over the years to add to reliability such as the full c clips for trans and crank as opposed to the half moon OEM style ones, steel kick-start idler gear bushing and so on. then i would like to put together a list of helpfull tips like i read some people use a little locktight on the lowercase to make sure crank bearings dont spin. In this build i will be using a hot-rods 4mill long rod crank i purchased from a member it appears to be in descent condition. contemplating replacing the outer bearings they don't seem to have any roughness or friction, spins freely but they may be on the loose side from what I have read and been told. As i said above id like to start with a laundry list of replacement parts needed if any one has a list of these and wants to chime in id very much appreciate it. I would like to have these things sitting on the bench once i start tearing into it rather then get to a point in which i realize i need to order something before i can continue. This will almost inevitably happen i know but Im trying to avoid it as much as possible. Thank you in advance for any input that you feel would help

Engine stand recieved in mail today. And its not only sturdy but its also PURDY. Thank you sir

Geat seller! Recieved package today was as described, packaged wel and shipped in a timely manner. Will definitely do business with Hazzard again! Buy with confidence!

Cascade innivations: "This item is Temporarily out of stock" wtf over... wonder if and when they will be restocking this and if the price will be the same.

same issue, i have the header pipes but no stingers or silencers. i may have to just man up and buy them from toomey but didnt want to pay the 200 bucks when i could just use that money toward a better set of pipes. decisions decisions..

my actual reply was near the begining of this thread I think you guys arent taking into acount that he has stock airbox, The lid and snorkle severly sufficate a banshee. im at about 900 ft above sea level and 300s were too rich on my bike last winter with stock airbox. i was running 280. since ive removed it and i run 340s in temps in the 10-20 range just removing the airbox made me jump like 6 jet sizes.

the less turns on airscrew the richer it is. further out the leaner it is.

lowering clip richens (raises needle), raising clip leans. (lowers needle) check out the image link http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.250ninja.net/pics/jet_needle.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.250ninja.net/articles/ninja_250_jetting.html&h=431&w=342&sz=17&tbnid=Cb7KAaoVn3n30M:&tbnh=90&tbnw=71&zoom=1&usg=__MsQcrQ2hH_EiXCiLakStI4Tann0=&docid=ZosKs-JyHJqT0M&sa=X&ei=gJqkUrewL4SHygHiwICwAQ&ved=0CEYQ9QEwBA

edited above post. have you just tried setting air fuel screws by ear? making sure they are the same but listening to the engine to achieve the right setting?

with just pipes and no airbox mod 270 should be fine. his issue wasnt at wot from what i read so main size shouldnt be a factor in his issue. just my opinion anyways. try the air screws, maybe richen needle if it persists? is it a bog or falling off totally could be too rich on needle also. Not to say that the main shouldnt be increased but it doesnt sound like thats whats causing the issue at hand. I ran a similar stocker with 280main 30 pilot only pipes and needle was best at stock position still even at 10-20ish deg. at 1.5 on air/fuel screws

have you tried turning the air screws in to 2 or 1.5. when you say stock do you also mean air box? or you running open airbox with lid off or pods etc?

bump looking for Ported top end for 4mm or cub cylinders for 4mm

glad you got it figured out. Alsojust leave the tors box unplugged or it will just give you issues again.

Sigh... When you pull a plug is it wet with gas? Also hold the tip of the plug to the head making sure it has a good contact to groung it. Doese it have bright blue spark Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

No it was running like shit every time you rode it. No question about it. Edit I want to quantify this statement. This was under the impression that the choke tube wasn't and had not been connected. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Must a ran like shit when it ran. Thats a horrible vacume leak even if u manage to start it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Connect the two nipples protruding on both carbs level with the choke tube on the inside between them. And starter up bud Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

It won't start lol. Bought a newly rebuilt 03 for 1000 by cause he just couldn't figure it out. 4" piece of hose is what fixed it Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Not talking about a gas line. There's a vacume line that connects the two carbs at the center. Guessing its not there if you removed the carbs and don't know what I'm talking about Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Dont worry about the choke if your holding your hand over the carbs. Is the choke tube there? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Block the carbs with your hand. It will choke it more then the choke circuit. Is there a tube connecting the carbs to one another in the center? Sure it was asked but not sure if it was answered Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Give it a little throttle like 1/8 to 1/4 while kicking it. Also try holding your hand over the Carbs so they get less air. Looks like your choke doesn't stay out? If its not getting enough fuel this will get t to fire up. If its very getting enough fuel or too much fuel this won't help. Sure your getting good spark? Nice bright blue spark? Have a multimeter? Have you checked the coil resistance wire to wire Or stator? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Bump Still looking for a set of Ported cylinders with pistons. set up for 4mm crank also T5 stingers and silencers.