uman1030

What he said! also does your bike have tors still or has it been disconnected? Have you checked if your getting spark?

i believe only 1989 had the larger size rear hubs. one of mine is an 89 and i have a couple sets of rims/tires for it wich will not fit my 2000 so now im gonna get the more common standard size hub and transfer everything over to make them interchangable. i would assume most people have the more common ones and probably dont even realize theyre were a diffrent size.

Well this bike should be a screaming trail machine now. Ordered a ton of shit from site sponsors and a few members this week. spent most of my Christmas bonus SHHH i wont tell if you dont lol... parts from Jeff at FAST Serval Cub Cylinders - 68/58 4mm * Christmas Special * 1 Cub Kit w/ .012" Base 2 Cub Base Nut 2 Wiseco 573M06800 (Cub) 1 25cc Cub Domes ?????? 1 V-Force 4 Reeds - Banshee * Christmas Special * 1 Banshee Complete Seal Kit * Christmas Special * 1 Banshee Clutch Gasket 1 Water Pump Gasket 1 Eccentric Stud 1 Eccentric Stud Lock Washer 1 Folding Lock Washer 1 Heater Pipe O-Ring 1 Idler Clip 1 set 6" Filter *Need Oiled* * Christmas Special 1 Set 6" Outerwear - Black 1 1211 Sealer ATV Galaxy Stage 3 Elka front and rear shocks set up for Alba Long travel +2+1 A Arms and +4 swinger alot of other odds and ends im looking at also Truthfully i think it may be cheaper to build cars or at the least not more expensive...

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more then likely if your fouling plugs with stock jets its not the jets making it rich but the oil ratio. empty your gas tank and use a fresh mix of 32:1 20:1 6.4oz oil per gallon way too rich even tho manual does say to run this it smokes alot , fouls plugs, gums up the silencer packing and eventuallu plugs them and ive seen them catch on fire from the excess oil. 32:1 4 oz oil per gallon of gas optimal 40:1 3.2 oz oil per gallon some of my friends use this ratio on dirbikes but i prefer 32:1 on banshees and i think most do. 50:1 2.6 oz oil per gallon of gas this is what most small 2 cycle engines use like weed whips or backpack blowers wouldn't use it on a dirtbike or atv personally

your going to want to disconnect all the electrical connections on the TORS and most importantly the black tors brain box under the gas tank on shifter side or yes it can make it not start. once all of its electrically disconnected then it wont stop your bike from running. at this the tors is now just the 2 mechanical tops on the carburetors that adjust idle and make it a pain to get to your carbs or remove them and if you so choose you can install the tors eliminator kit wich will replace the mechanical aspect of the tors the large boxes sitting on the top of the carburator with normal style carb caps and a set of idle screws that to install you must drill and tap the carburetors. this kit includes throttle cable, two carb caps 2 idle screws and a drill and a tap. Secondly you'll want to remove the wire to the clutch for the parking brake. this is not part of the tors but it will make your cdi go into rev limiter modw and not let it go above idle when parking brake is on or its malfunctioning.

the rivets or bolts that do connect it all are metal to metal regardless of some cushion being left.

If it has tors then the first thing you should do is unplug it all. Unplug the black tors box under the left side of gas tank. Unplug the plug on thumb throttle and at carbs and unplug the parking break wire. Then buy a tors elimination kit. It is new carb caps and throttle cable. A drill bit and tap to drill and tap carbs for real idle screws that you can adjust on carbs. Tors is just garbage and when it malfunctions your bike won't run makes it very hard to diagnose drivability issues and also makes it a complete pita to remove carbs to change jets or adjust idle screws. Def one if the very first things you should do. May just need idle raised in both carbs and the air screw's set correctly. Idle screws do not "tune" the carb just changes idle. If it runs poorly other then too low of idle they won't help that would be airscrews or jets if its carburetion thats the issue

nothng on the thumb lever is for idle adjsutment. The idle on a stock untouched carburator is the 2 screws under the seat on the TORS. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144110&p=1243066

ya it wasnt submerged at all. puddle was about 6-8 inches deep max it wsa from a truck offroading at our track. where i ride mostly is a track built by the guys from Magics motorsports in watorford michigan its across the street from them in an empty square mile lot of woods and fields. theres an mx track and also and also some endurance woods trails for bikes as well as a bunch of two tracks. i just got a little spray off it. so im going to assume that cause the gap in the air filter it took on alot more water then a properly fitted filter would let in. Also i dont run a lid on the airbox. its completely open with a K&n filter i may just run pods then like i said im not opposed to it. sure would make working on carbs easier. How about the 35mm carb question do you think this would decrease low end throttle response and do you think its necessary to prvide that much fuel to the serval?

just worries me cause i blew this banshee up with in 2 hours of owning it by hitting a big puddle in the trail. next thing i know i got almost no compression and when i tore it apart it busted both piston rings on both pistons, blew them downward chipping ring grooves and scarring cylinders i assumed since it happen almost immediately from hitting this puddle at wot nearly died immediately that the water hydrolocked it and the compression was so great it blew the rings right off it. Was a big water filled trench in trail i didnt know about not enough time to stop i just leaned back and wheelied thru it and this was with box and no lid but later inspection showed filter wasnt fit right alowing a gap.

Agreed, i bought mine with a motion pro twist throttle installed and it came witht he old thumb throttle and cable. Originally i liked it since i was a dirtbike rider for years before this. few awkward landings and un avoidable ruts wich threw my center of gravity making me spike the throttle and i went to the thumb throttle lol. Open riding dragging or duning i probably would still like it but tight trails and a semi MX environment i didnt think it was the best option for me.

Have a couple questions, purchasing a 4 mill Serval cub from F.A.S.T and some VF 4's and i was wondering if i should use my 35mm pwks, would this be beneficial or would this rob it of some low end throttle responce? Iif i do use the 35's i know i can get intakes to fit obviously but if i wanted to use stock airbox (no lid) are their boots that can be bought that would adapt the 35 to fit the airbox and would this be conterproductive by decreasing airflow too much. Athough Id prefer not to use pods on this trail bike as it does occasionally see the random water puddle and soupy mud at the areas I ride. i try to avoid these but depending but sometimes its almost impossible. Im not completely against pods especially if its the best route but i feel that do to my riding environment if possible i should try to keep my filters as dry and mud free as possible for obvious reasons but its difficult at times.Especially at "the Mounds" in MT Morris Michigan. Most of the spring and fall is super wet there especially the wooded areas never seem to dry out. what are your thoughts on these questions, any advice would be appreciated.

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what do you mean Idle block? do you mean the thumb throttle or are you reffering to the Tors system wich among other things also controls idol. are you posative the idle isnt just set too low? does it have tors still which would mean they're are no idle screws on the carbs but on the tors system under the seat (2 aluminum odd shaped bexes connected to top of carbs with electrical wires connected to them and a throttle cable going to the top) the idle can be adjusted on these also. they look like this. http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mFLOh_2CStgrZWI08QA7X6w.jpg

if leakdown passed wich it sounds like it did. , richen the airscrews, but most likely your way lean on pilots and need to bump them up 1-2 sizes. what pilots are in it?

PM sent im interested let me know! if you mean the Albas not the yz450 arms.

i would i ditch the lid all together and start at 340main and work down bump the pilot to 30 may be a little rich but better safe then sorry. stock needle clip should be fine. i run 300s with FMF pipes but what cold weather riding i did do wasn't any wot really as i wasn't ice racing just casual trail cruising and i had no issues and seemed really close but i would assume Toomey's flow a little better at higher throttle. just got a set of t5s for my trail bike but haven't installed them to check jetting yet. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html gives a good baseline to start with but in the end every machine is slightly different and what works for some may not work for all so see how it runs, determine which circuit seems to be the issue and also do a plug chop to see if its perfect. Air filter Remove snorkel:1-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Remove airbox lid:1-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add foam air filter:0-2 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add K&N air filter:4-6 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add 2 into 1 Foam air filter OR dual carb-mounted foam filters (removing entire airbox, NOT in addition to removing snorkel and airbox lid above):2-4 sizes larger on mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add Dual K&N carb-mounted air filters (no airbox, NOT in addition to removing snorkel and airbox lid above):4-7 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary Add Outerwear:no change Add TORS elimination kit:no change Pipes Add Pipes & silencers (all except 2 into 1 pipes):8 sizes larger on the mains, 2 sizes larger on the pilots, adjust airscrews Note:Some pipes, like CPI and other “drag” pipes, may need even larger mains, midrange pipes may only need one size larger on the pilots Add 2 into 1 Pipe & silencer:4-5 sizes larger on the mains, 0-1 sizes larger on the pilots, adjust airscrews Reeds Add Reeds, Aftermarket reed cage, or Ported reed cage:Move needle clip one position leaner, adjust airscrews, 0-2 sizes larger on the pilots Electrical Add Degree key or Timing plate with advanced ignition timing:0-1 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Switch coil wires (A lot of Banshees come from the factory with the orange positive wire on the “-“ terminal of the coil, and the black ground wire on the “+” terminal of the coil, switching the wires would put orange on “+” and black on “-“):0-1 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews Add Aftermarket ignition system:4-8 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews

Are you using lid on airbox? Stock box with lid and snorkle suffocate the hell out of your engine and it won't breathe well nor get the full potential of the new pipes will also be a determining factor on jet sizes aswell as temperature and elevation

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Are you sure it was 369? Patrick quoted me $375 for the a A Arm. Only $6 difference but still odd the price was raised in just 3 days.... Owell

PM sent need some long travel Arms!

Got my T5 silencers and stingers today thanks for the good deal and quality parts

Just purchased the elka stage 3 package that atv galaxy was offering set up for the alba's Waiting for Patrick from Alba to return my pm and ill buy the A arms. should be a considerable upgrade from stock i would assume. pretty excited!

wondering what the quality of these are also http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-YFZ-350-Long-Travel-A-Arms-2-wider-per-side-1-forward-Alba-Racing-/190899793449?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7283ae29&vxp=mtr i see they are a site sponsor and i sent them a message but curious if any one has used these specific A arms and how they liked them.