uman1030

Nice looking bike, GLWS

price? can upload pics with taptalk or use photobucket to host then link them. Location?

check the wires that run by the exhaust on the brake side. these wires occasionally get burnt and maybe the coating has burnt off and its touching the frame at times. i would guess this would normally cause drivability issues but maybe due to moisture its just slightly arcing to the frame creating a charging effect to the frame. That or the coil wires are charging the frame somehow or even a cracked/damaged coil itself. Maybe even wires that go to the lights. have you determinded when it happens, are lights on or off. possibly light switch arcing to bars.

wampus cylinders are made to more closely resemble stock cylinders as opposed to regular servals or cub cylinders. being a mono block still they arent exactly stock looking but alot closer looking then the others.

x3 $60 shipped on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/40MM-THICK-OVERSIZED-ATV-YAMAHA-Banshee-YFZ350-YFZ-350-ALL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-/201029134755

depends what kind of riding your doing. I have both and id say they ride the same. if your duning and dragging i wouldn't worry about it. That said, I hit a rock (small boulder half showing with a flat spot facing me) just off the trail on my j arm frame it stopped me dead. i was just putting in 1st gear but it flattened my tire and bent the j arm right into the shock. The lower a arm was undamaged. Now i dont know if that accident would have bent an upper a arm but it shredded my J arm. However i have jumped over 50ft over and over and even measured the distance and it handled it just fine. i felt no difference on either bike so i wouldnt say they are weak but i have heard they arent as strong as an A arm frame.

damn lazy michiganders!

that will work but from what ive read it wil cause damage to the electrics, you dont want to ground the power. you could use the engine stop wire from cdi (black/white wire on diagram) to that switch then to ground for a kill switch when pushed with the switch you have or use the normally closed switch to both key wires as mentioned.

you can buy two diffrent styles of kill switches/tethers normally open, and normally closed. To use the key switch wires as a kill you'll need the one that is closed circuit and opens it when pushed. (normally closed)

If i had to guess its 23cc 13 degree angle for a 110 length rod. Just a guess but the make 13 and 9 degree domes so these numbers made me think thats what they mean Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

i inquired about these a few months ago and i found a company in, dont quote me but iirc arizona. that makes them still. this is the email i got from them GREETINGS THE J ARM TO ARM KITS COST 169.00 AND THEY BARE METAL WE MAKE THIS KIT IN HOUSE AND IS AVAILBLE THANKS JOHN KING ATV RACING this was there contact info i used. Sales <sales@atvracing1.com>; this was just for the conversion pieces then have to figure in price of a arms and other components.

T6's aren't a good match for a cub they're for stockish trail bikes Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Open carbs? Hope you mean with pod air filters not just open. Where are your air/fuel screws set at. Are your carbs synced properly? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Clean the needle valve and the brass piece it sits in that regulates fuel flow into the bowl. If float height is right, more then likely sediment is on the rubber tip or on the brass, not allowing it to close peoperly. Or replace just the needle and seat for like $12. Or u can get a rebuild kit fir $15 that includes said seat/needle valve. A gasket stock jets and needle/clip. Airscrew and bowl drain screw. http://m.ebay.com/itm/181279686531 this is 2 kits. One for each carb. I paid $15 each for shindy rebuild kits. This is assuming you have stock carbs Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

more then one thing can cause this, skim the thread and check out the possible causes and check these things. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

he absolutely did. He allowd me to return it and refunded my money, wich i actually didnt expect but was very thankful. Crank was still usable it wasnt completely shot but i was recommended not to do so as it did have some play in the rods. As LCW said, just a missunderstanding in the condition of it. I took it as a good usable crank wouldnt have rod play but i was wrong as it did but was still in spec to be usable.

congrats you two!

11 years is a lot of time to ride. hope it lasts ya a while.

pictures? Location?

wont matter if exhaust is on or off, should still be tunable but the end result may be slightly diffrent then a fresh rebuild. so make sure when you do rebuild it you check jetting again.

Love to have that set of plastics but think they would be overkill for a trail bike! Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

so how are these two highlighted things possible? couldnt pass a leakdown test with an air leak you can see through. can buy some good used stock intakes cheap. if you have a boost bottle replace it with the stock crossover tube it is what probably caused the tear. Once compression drops so low it will be harder and harder to start with a loss of power.

http://jdscustoms.com/Yamaha_Banshee_Engine_Stands.htm

reattaching airbox will cut down the airflow and make it run better with those jets but it also decreased your potential horsepower that removing it unlocked. be better off to keep the airbox off and change the jets to add more gas to the more air you gave it and end up with more horsepower. just my opinion but if your happy thats all that matters