uman1030

you can delete all your double posts. Vf4 reeds like a very fat pilot. that is your issue. Get rid of the boost bottle it will just tear your boots and does nothing for performance.

Stock airbox and pipes? If not then then pilot is likely the problem. Have you tried turning in fuel/airscrew to see if you can richen it up to stabilize the idle?

irractic idle is a lean condition, sometimes bad reeds can make idle wacky too. lean could be caused by an air leak or just too small of a pilot. could be running out of fuel too, clogged idle circuit, float level too low etc..

Well unplug it again and leave it unplugged.. also unplug the parking brake switch.

it was moved to the correct forum since this post.

make sure parking brake switch is unatatched and not grounded anywhere all the way back to cdi. edit, its a green/yellow wire which activates a rev limiter that wont let it go just over idle and is separate from the tors(part of cdi control)

Tempting as it is, im trying to concentrate my efforts on the A arm bike right now wich is set me back a wee bit more then anticipated as per usual with these highly addictive Banshee's! There ya go Newcs222 here is a set of the ever elusive Aftermarket J arm!

i posted a similar add months ago, got no response. Aftermarket used J arms are hard to come by. They are out there but its rare, they are usually either not in good condition still, drag only stuff and not trail friendly or snapped up super fast. I gave up and moved on to my a arm bike. I will eventually just buy some sponsor made new arms when the time comes i guess.

Apparently this can happen. There is a video on YouTube of this happening to a banshee and he does ride it backwards.

i have heard of multiple people saying they stretched their stock brake lines to fit +2+1 arms i havnt tried that personally as i got brake lines with my a arms. Also you will need longer tie-rods, sometimes these are included in the package depending on where you buy them if not they are easy enough to get. Several different sponsors offer them here.

if you read the link i posted, you would know that it could be either one because hotrods labled old ss cranks with that but changed it on newer cranks. youll have to measure yourself to verify. according to the post i linked anyways.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123026&p=1066002

Was directed at the thread in general. And statements usually dont end with a question-mark. Regardless I said here is a copy paste explaining what i mean. so your statement is rather redundant. way to go captain obvious.

why didn't you correct this when you removed the spaces! they are 26mm or tors was never installed on them buddy.

Thanks sleeper, I may just buy the CEL's when i buy a bunch of jets. After doing some research it looks like the overflow tubes from Keihin are 3mm I.D. i found some on ebay for cheap also bought 1/4(6mm) tubing for the fuel line and a inline filter. ended up being about $34 with shipping but its enough to fully do both bikes with some left over. Could some one measure the engine side bore I.D. of their 35mm pwk and tell me what it is. I assumed it would be 35mm or real cose but mine appears to be 35.97mm yet ive verified they are definitely 35mm pwks by part number.

depends! Cranking compression is not the same as compression ratio and heavy porting can give you what seems to be a pump gas cranking compression when in actuality you have a race gas compression ratio. here is a copy paste explaining what i mean. Generally, when you increase compression past a certain level, you need to increase the fuel octane requirement in order to combat detonation. Detonation occurs when the cylinder pressure is high enough to ignite the end gases without the aid of the spark plug. This usually occurs in the combustion chamber end zones (near the bore edge of the dome). This ignition of the end zone gases will create a shock wave that will travel and collide with the on-coming flame front. It is this collision that will do the damage to your engine. So, think about it..if you increase the fuel's resistance to auto ignition by raising its octane level then it MAY not self ignite before the flame front reaches it. So, what does this have to do with compression? It stands to reason that higher compression RATIOS will yield higher cylinder pressures (given that nothing else has changed before the compression ratio was raised) Well.. we just determined that the higher pressures are a major player in causing the fuel to auto ignite (not good) hence, the need for higher octane with higher compression RATIOS. OK, we have been talking about compression ratios NOT cranking compression. What about the cylinder's cranking compression? Continuing along the above lines: What about cranking PSI vs Octane requirements?? My opinion is that they are not very closely related. In other words.. knowing what PSI your engine "cranks" out will NOT tell you whether or not you need a higher octane fuel, unless, of course, the PSI number is extremely large (like 200). Then, it may carry more weight and tell you , "yes", you do need some high octane fuel BUT it will NOT tell you which octane you need. OK, "WHY?" Let's do some deductive reasoning here: Take an engine with an exhaust duration of 182 degrees ATDC and install some domes (any domes) that yield.. say 170 PSI cranking compression. OK, take another engine, exactly the same, except the exhaust duration is at 198 degrees ATDC (ie higher exhaust port) Now, install the SAME domes that the other engines has. Now, the cranking compression reads only 150 PSI. Hmmm.... so does this engine require a different octane of fuel than the other one? Probably, but not what you think.. It , most likely, requires, a HIGHER octane fuel NOT a lower octane. I know that the general conception among riders is that the higher the PSI .. the higher the octane needed.. Well, I just told you completely the opposite. With the general consensus.. it would stand to reason that when ever you raise the exhaust port... you need to run a lower octane fuel because the cranking compression will, indeed, get lower with higher exhaust heights. Does this seem right?? What if you lowered the exhaust height? Would you then need a higher octane fuel because the cranking PSI would surely go UP? Let's look a few of the determining factors behind the above statements: Please realize that I will be over simplifying the processes but it should get the point across. 1: With an increase in exhaust height or area.. the probability of having more escaped fuel/air charge "stuffed" back into the cylinder just prior to exhaust port closing increases. This will raise your dynamic cylinder pressures and combustion temps. 2: Along those same lines... during the peak scavenging phase the larger exhaust CAN effectively pull more F/A charge in the cylinder and out the exhaust which then leads us back to #1. 3: Crown temps are higher with a raised exhaust. Anytime you have elevated crown temps, you increase your chances for detonation. IMHO, there is no direct relation between cranking PSI and octane required. I wish there were. For example.. one of my race engines (snowmobile) cranks only 140 PSI but I know that if I don't run at least 110 octane , the engine will not live for very long. As we are beginning to realize... these PSI charts really give no relative information unless your engine is stock ported (and even then, I find that they are not useful) This all relates to information needed when choosing a dome for your engine. I know that when you call up the head shop or go to the counter and ask the parts guy the conversation goes something like this: YOU: "So, if I want to stay with premium pump gas, which size domes should I purchase?" THEM: "Well, if you want to stay with premium fuel your cranking compression needs to stay below 160 PSI. These XXcc domes will put you right at that correct PSI for premium fuel" I DO NOT AGREE WITH THIS LINE OF REASONING! We see that the porting arrangement plays a MAJOR role in the resultant cranking compression. It is NOT only about the head!!! Then.. You factor in the bore size in the equation and you REALLY can get into a pickle!! So, you have to be very careful in choosing domes for your engine. The head (dome) design itself, plays a large role in determining octane requirements of an engine. If the dome is not correct for the engine, you could be forced to run race fuel in order to avoid engine failure. OR on the other extreme, you may THINK your engine requires race fuel, when, in fact, it would live just fine on pump fuel. So, you could be throwing money and convenience right out the window.

duplicate post... lol one thread will work for future reference sir.

you do realize your quoting some one else then the person your message was aimed at? interesting thoughts i may add.

no fair! i was patiently waiting for pictures!

There should be a auto message for all new members, hi welcome to bhq, before proceeding; have you done a compression test, leakdown test, tors and parking break properly eliminated, choke tube installed, carbs cleaned thoroughly, synced properly, made note of current jets installed. checked reeds, tested stator and coil, trimmed wires back/reinstalled caps, new plugs. Carry on then

when you buy your elkas you specify exactly what arms you have and what length swingarm and they build them accordingly. a wider stance doesnt necessarily make it long travel. you would have to buy arms that are wider and long travel and im not exactly sure if they make long travel J arms, they very well may but unless they say they are then they are not.

17 seconds of my life i will never get back, thank you sir! why post it twice?

trying to order some odds and ends parts for my Fast 421 serval, hasnt arrived yet but i want to be prepared to just put everything together and start tuning. looking over my 35mm pwk airstriker carbs they have 48 pilots 152 mains and CGL needles that were on the 2nd clip. i thought these came off a 421 cub but i cant remember now. I hear most people refer to the CEL or DEK needles any advice on wich ones i should start with or will these be easily tunable as well. plan on buying a range of jets up and down from whats in it so i have it all on hand to fine tune. Also any one know what size the overflow hoses are and also the fuel line and where i can purchase it. Will i need a dual pingle to feed these? what about the gas cap should i hog it out to vent better. also the part number S65A2 on the carb indicates it is a 35mm A/S according to http://www.sudco.com/pwk.html but when measuring the inside bore diameter of the engine side of carb it measures nearly 36mm is that normal or have they been bored that large

Don't really need an eBay account, although it only takes minutes to make one as a buyer. But you can purchase as a guest thru ebay as well.

if for a play bike and you will be backloading it often then a promod tranny is your best bet. makes shifting smooth and none of the fear of messing it up like an override.