uman1030

you may find that once your vforce reeds are installed it has a dead spot or hesitation in the lower rpm range just off idle, these reeds like a larger pilot then stock reeds.

said nothing about a kit, was just adding to what the OP said. I was just saying how it was done. all the ones i seen had a stock cover and insert still.

exactly

whats to know? you cut a hole in your old cover under where the insert is. then with an insert with a rubber gasket you can seal it up. its not rocket science lol. not even sure why people do it to begin with, you shouldnt need to adjsut your clutch from there often anyways.

you do it yourself. maybe google images may have one

must be fairly common, i needed a clutch cover for my bros bike to go riding that weekend so we stopped by rattlecan ray's pole barn and he had a pile of them to pick from and several where already cut out like that. only really allows access to the clutch adjuster screw or clutch springs nothing as convenient as a lockout cover

that is how it works, cut your own cover behind where the clutch insert goes to allow access to inside when you remove the insert. so you don't have to remove the whole cover for clutch access. that said it will probably only allow for clutch adjustment, doubt the whole basket or clutch pack will fit thru the access hole.

looks like about $315-$420 to have them re-plated at Millennium http://www.mt-llc.com/cylservice.php

rut roh shaggy, long side up would be "reserve" so long side down is "on" and as stated that is the OFF position.

yes and no, they're a small cylindrical or oval electrical device with 2 prongs/poles similar to a resistor but larger. been meaning to do some research myself to see which one would be the correct size for this application. they're rated in farads. there is ac and dc capacitors and they are not interchangeable. a lot of the dc conversion kits come with a capacitor but this wouldn't be the correct one for a stock stator with out the dc conversion. basically it would just have to be installed inline after stator before voltage regulator on the lighting circuit. I used to have a large dc capacitor in my car to keep the amps running at peak during large power draws due to extreme bass to stop the power from spiking to improve the bass response. you've kinda re sparked some interest with this topic i will be doing some research and calculations myself to figure out what i need to retain the stock charging system but with a capacitor. I need one anyways to power my heated grips and thumb warmer properly. as it is i bought a digital unit and they don't work properly cause when ever the voltage drops they shut off due to lack of power. edit: after a little research it appears that they do sell some kits for hids that have the capacitors inline right at the lights which is after the voltage regulator. still looking for more info but i may have to actually test some things before i know for certain. i would think its possible to place a single capacitor before the regulator to effect both lights in a low voltage stock system but dont quote me on that. to be determined..

yes capacitors can be used in place of a battery to store electricity and release it if the voltage drops momentarily.

no they will still dim and bright as rpm changes unless you have a battery or use a capacitor.

if you know its way off IMO its fine, i wouldnt jump too many jet sizes smaller just in case but jumping sizes richer cause you know your way lean for the engine/mods you have would just save some time in my book.

↑ this is true. LED's are brighter per watt then incandescent bulbs. a 10w LED puts out almost the same light as a 60w incandescent. About 3x as much as the same watt holagen

yes they are correct! you need larger mains..

Don't over bore you cylinders any more then needed to clean them up to spec. little hp is gained from increased piston size compared to porting. If you bore them big then you wont have any room to bore them again if something fails. Shit happens things break then your searching for new cylinders. Suspension is the best mod you can do to these bikes. A arms shocks and swinger can make it feel like a whole different machine.

It never hurts to pull things apart to inspect them though. its very simple and you can make sure there is nothing catastrophic in the making. Its very easy and not very time consuming for some piece of mind.

grooved clutch basket or inner hub can make this issue worse but i can say from experience that when i replaced basket, inner hub,pressure plate and new clutch kit with all new mine still did it. i didn't replace those cushions wich help push the plates and fibers apart slightly. they were worn and torn so i tossed them. so i have to deduce that, that is why it still happens. my bike actually lurches forward and stalls as you described when its cold out until i have ridden it a few minutes to warm the clutch and oil up. If its a stock bike i wouldn't worry about it untill you notice some slippage. with stock horsepower you can get a tusk clutch kit for like $44.

god what a pos ↑ Fing Detroit!

clutches are sticking together untill it warms up. pretty normal at cold temps especially. There are rubber clutch cushions (not the ones in between basket and gear) that separate the clutches on a stock clutch pack wich get worn out or get removed when redoing the clutch, with out them i think its a pretty common issue.

↑ +1

Appreciate the sentiment but I'm actually fairly new to the banshee field(2 years) compared to many on here. I do have a shit ton of experience with mechanics in general, small engines, 2 & 4 cycle as well as automobiles. ive been working on junk for almost 25 years now. And to answer your question yes a cool-head would definitely gain you a few hp while still using pump gas. Although with out a welded crank adding compression will add to the chance of twisting your crank out of phase. also your altitude will change what domes you can safely use and still remain in the pump gas category. 21cc domes is probably what your looking at if your around sea-level. as you go up in altitude you will be able to use smaller domes. Also you could just have your head milled by a professional and save some money. below is a dome chart per elevation

look at their profile or hover cursor over their name, it says member since: like yours says member since 22-April 08

Make sure both a/f screws are the same. Sure carbs are synced correctly? Idle on both synced also?

Odd to make a post like this. Just use PayPal as buying goods and if there's issues you could make a claim... Typically you could search the good seller or bad seller section. If he's not listed in the bad seller section chances are your ok. Just don't gift it if your apprehensive. Personally I rarely gift anything, few extra bucks is well worth insuring you can make a claim if the deal goes sour.