kevshiau

I took it down to HJR 4-5 times and he couldn’t get it right. It’s a 2 hour drive for me to San Diego and I was just tired of taking it down to him. Motor ran like shit and was not happy or impressed with it at all I switch because e85 is wayyy cheaper than 110 and it keeps my motor cooler. I got my bike tuned and dynoed with Mike at so cal racing

I ended up converting my gas to E85 and got it tuned. I haven't taken it out yet, but I can already tell it is a night and day difference from what it was before. I told the tuner I just wanted a safe and conservative tune, it dynoed at 112 HP. I have some big bore pipes on the way, it should free up a couple more hp and help keep the engine cooler as suggested by trickedcarbine. Turns out my stator was ok, it might be my light/kill switch. He helped me hook up a Milwaukee battery to small light bar in the front, and I will try to replace the switch to see if that will fix my problem with my headlights

I have been trying to find a 22x8 10 paddle tire but came across a 22x10 10 paddle. Has anyone had any experience with this tire in the dunes? Is it worth trying out or should I keep looking for 22x8

I will pay more attention to my temp next time I go out. I didn't really go on any long day rides last time but it seemed to be holding up ok at night. I might have to bite the bullet and switch to big bore if it starts heating up. Do you know how it will effect the power in the motor? My lights went out went out at the hill on the trip so I had to ride back without lights. I wasn't able to find any broken wires, maybe the stator went out? I was thinking about doing the DC conversion so that I can install some LED head lights and maybe a light bar, but heard mixed reviews on them.

Thank you, I couldn’t figure out how to upload a picture with better resolution Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I decided to just run 110 so I brought it back to HJR, he helped me install 29CC domes and advance the timing to +6. Took it out to Glamis this past weekend, it ran way better and didn't back any plugs out. I am not sure if I am getting the full potential of the motor but I am enjoying it for now. I will try another builder down the road if I decide to try to squeeze some more power out of it. I also switched out my CPI's to Shearer to solve the clearance issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He built my 4 mil stock cylinders around 10 years ago and did a good job. When my wife's LTZ broke I brough it in to him to have it fixed and he suggested that I rebuild the motor because it was going to go soon, so I agreed and asked him to rebuild the motor. On the next trip out my motor blew and I brought it back to him, he said that the motor wasn't rebuilt and he only fixed the part that was broken (I forgot which part it was). I brought in the "receipt" that he gave me to show that I paid for a motor rebuild and he said that the paper he gave me was only quote and not an actual receipt. Safe to say I will not be going back there again, he was kind of a dick from the start too.

The bike is still with him, he said it might take a while to get it figured out so im thinking maybe a month or 2. He assembled the motor in the bike, I will check to make sure the stingers arn't backwards when I get it back. He did put some spacer on one of the front exhaust hangers so that the pipe would clear the top of the cool head, maybe the spacers are bending that part in a weird angle? If I can't get the pipe to clear I'll order some Cascade exhaust heat wraps to see if it will keep it from melting the filters again. I don't know anything about motor building but I will ask my regular mechanic they know how to do the UCCR test. When I picked up my bike last time he said the 32 domes are 12.5 to 1 compression. I think I will be able to manage the squish test. I already spent a bunch of money with him building this motor, I'm hoping he can get it figured out so I won't have to spend more sending it out, but I might have to at the end of the day.

Yeah he said he ran it. I dropped it back off to him yesterday morning he said he was going to look into it but may take a while to get it figured out. Ill look into the UCCR and squish test if it is still not running right when I get it back. On a side note, do you guys have any suggestion on how I can get my intake to clear the exhaust. I tried putting header wrap on the exhaust to prevent it from melting but that didn't work as planned.

Kevin assembled it. The fuel I used was VP C10, I bought it off Kevin when I picked my bike up. I will ask him check what timing plate it is when he adjusts it. If he can't figure it out this time around I may have to find another builder to get it running properly, another unexpected expense...😩

Timing is +5 and compression is 150. The domes were cut by HJR. He told me to bring the bike back down to him and he will try to get it fixed. If he still can't get it to run right I may have to take you up on your offer. Thank you!

I had a 10 mil super cub duner built by HJR in January, when I got it back I took it to Glamis to break it in. Initially it felt like the top end never kicks in and the powerband never comes on. I thought maybe because I wasn't giving it full throttle so I finished the break in process as instructed: not going over half throttle for the first 2 tanks. Toward the end of the second tank I took it on a regular ride and tried to open the throttle up, but same results. I rode it around a bit more and the radiator hose popped off the cool head and saw that one of the spark plugs backed out. I took it back down to HJR and he said I was detonating because of the gas I was using (100 pump) it burned off the ground strap on my spark plug. He checked everything and said nothing was damaged or broken and put it back together, and the top end power was there when he tested it. When I got it back it took it back to Glamis this past weekend there was still no top end power, my old 7 mil stock cylinder was definitely faster. Even my friends 421 felt like there was more power. After my second ride I saw that the spark plug backed out again and he said it is because of detonation but don't know what is causing it, it could be the flywheel, stator, coil, CDI, harness, or carbs. I ran VP 100 octane from the can this time, so I am pretty sure it is not the gas. How can I find out what it is causing the detonation and why isn't there any top end power? I am pretty frustrated because I spent a lot of money building the motor and it has less power and doesn't run right. I don't even know how to find out what is wrong with it. All HJR told me to do was put it back to stock timing and we can go from there, but that means I would have to take my bike back to Glamis and run/test it again just to see if it is still detonating. Is there an easier way? My mods are: 10 mil, super cub, 32 domes to run 100 octane gas, PWK 38 carbs, aggressive dune/drag port, CPI small bore pipes

Tried sending you a DM but it wouldn't go through. I am interested in the 72mm 7 mil Super Cub cylinder and pistons

I might have to get a +4 swing arm then and see how that works with the 22x11x8. I really liked how my 4 mil turns with stock swing arm and 20x10x10 8 paddle Extremes, I'd like to get my 7 mil close to that