kedge82

i think even 20 cc domes run race gas not 100% postive on that but i think so. syncing does not require special tool.take airbox off look throug carbs slowly press accelortor watch the slides and the need to move at the exact same time there are adjustments on top of carbs to controll movement on slides just the slightest touch will make them move, they need to litrally need to move at the exact same time

if you want jetting help you need to give a lil more info on whats going on and what you got in it. what have you done to try in fix it. waht your ridding temp riding elevatiion

yes thet are front wheel spacers. just bought 2 +1 a arms one step ahead of you. if i sold that mower i would never get my lawn done takes 4 hours on that rider

guess that will see how it holds up after riding thats what i think the big ? will be when i picked the color for the plastics it was much darker. but whatever only cost 50 dollars to paint so changing it is not a big deal to me i just want to see how it holds up first kinda skeptical on the plastics

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y thank you sir i wanted the plastics darker the swatch i picked out was much darker but thats what i got what aya do

im not trying to measure anything only showing the size of them because thats what they wanted to see they are supposedly able to be bored to 69 instead off 66 like the stock ones.

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it gets the point across id 63.75 on one 63.81 on the other

my calpers are out side and it cold out lol

cool! so if i want to post my quad where do i do that at?

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i wont let me paste adress to upload on this site

you teach me how to post pics and i will be all over it. been trying to upload pic of my shee makrover all week!

cedar rapids iowa

i got them off ebay he had them worked on at vitos

it is big bore sleeve brand new. can be bored up to 69mm but they start in the 63mm area to allow you to bore for stock pistons wich are not all the same obviusly mine are 63,75 and 63.81 will buy stock pistons and have bored to proper size

so when putting in a storker crank you must change domes. is this because the piston would hit the head or comppresion would be to great. i would think witch means nothing but by adding 4mm to the trough would be the saME as having 18cc domes or something of the nature. or is 4mm so great that the piston would hit?

does it require cool head or mod oem head

right now they are 63.75mm

so aim i right on the blaster piston thing? or do you use normal banshee pistons. i have new jugs with big bore sleeves, im sure not going to bore to 66mm from the get go and waste the new sleeves!

if a 4 mil stroker is a 4 mil crank with a blaster piston is a 7 mil the samething with just a bigger crank. i could be total wrong know nothing about big engines. do mods have to be done to engine for these to be done?

pilots prollay wont need changed but mains i would go up to about 330 run it and drop as needed. i would imagine at 330 main you will not hit your powerband in about 4th or 5th gear keep dropping main till you can all the way trough 6th better to go big and work down than seize and bore. it is slow annyoing prosess but needed andd worth it

in my opioning if you have a stock shee dont bore it the time will come for that these do not runn forever and there is no point wasting a bore job when its not needed. easy cheap proformance gains would be after market open air box k&n air filters if you ride desert or no where near water get pods with no air box. diffrent reeds make nice proformance pipes will allways help they are more on expensive side 400-600 $ you could also buy cool heads and depending on domes you get change compression to gain more power anything under 20cc domes requires race gas fyi. or take yoour stock head and get it milled the list are damn near endless. i say dont BORE! go with other options