kedge82

Fly wheel sell?

what color wire would it be most of that shit has been deleted from bike but i guess it could be shorting out? idk

so last week shee was running funny. popping and shit out of left cylinder when i killed it it the left pipe would smoke for about a minute while off. took home did some looking and testing founf pick up coil was only at 89 ohms when book says 94 to 140 so i ordered a new one put in then couldnt get to start. did some more searching found one of the wires i soldered broke, so fixed that and still nothing. my ignition coil is an oem that i bought last summer, but i have had probleoms checking it not getting readings or am just to stupid to do it right, stator test good. got it running after an hour or two. at idle both pistons where firing. as soon as i break about 3k rpms left side quits completly. and right has no power and lacks the ability to barley make it back to the garage. i am in prosses of checking pick up coil gap but there is really no adjustment for it. what if any are you suggestions. i was maybe thinking the cdi finally went out but i dont know there siigns and know they are untestable.

just bought hinsons but dont come with primary gear so if you have one that you want to get rid of or even a broken oem clutch basket hit me up. oem or straight cut if straight cut would also need kicker stright cut if the price is right thanks

ok so i just bought some hinson clutches but it dosent come with the gear on the back. what gear is neesded for these if not oem and how are they installed. hte oem clutches look as if the gear is on studs, or something simalar they dont lok removeable. so my question what gear do i nessd to buy and how is it applied to htese clutches thanks

what you asking for pic 36

come with hardware?

whats up on the stock cylinders and head i havent seen anything saying they have been sold? what bore are they?

im going to say 240 or 250 but start high work down maybe 260 i see sea level varys from 0- 1800 adjustment need made evry 1000ft fyi

the boost bottles are junk like he said they just tear up intake boots in two years i went through 3 sets, ditched it got oem crossover and there was literally no differnce in proformance. of course the ppl selling them are going to give all kinds of good info on them thats there business. as for jetting you allways want to start rich and work down to top profrormance. with 34mm witch imo is a lil big for stock motor. i would love to give you a starting point but my knowledge is limited to stock carbs. if you had them i would say start at 300 but you dont and with larger carbs i dont know where to start. have you ran it at all yet? if so how did it run? was there lag through any gear or certain part of the throttle accelaration? what jets do you have in? if youve ran it and it dosent fall on its face through gears or the power band that means your not rich but could also be bad because you could be lean witch would obviously be detrimental in the life of your shee. jetting is really a trail and error prosess. which can become quite time consuming, but a most. someone with 34mm will chime in soon to get you a good starting point

uman im going to say you were correct at 280- 290 but with lid off. i think 280 with lid on would be to rich i would think lid on 260-270 but thats my opinion

what is your elevation? what temp do you ride in? your air box, stock with lod no lid no box w/pods aftermarket box for good ifnfromation from us we need to know specifics

i would say full race gas 110 at least 310 good starting point

fmf sst's have built in arrestors and are approved for forest riding but you must buy set other silencers do not work with them propely and they sound desent it think anyway

jetting is a trial and error prosses start rich 330 with yor jet kit that you dont like but will end up getting to know well. 27.5 pilot. work your way done when you put your 330 in run it some place you can get through the gears 330 will be way rich. more than likley you will not hit the pwerband with this in through 4th gear. keeping dropping main jets till you can hit the power band through every gear im going to say you will end up at 270 or 280 better to start rich. it is a time consuming prosses but it will make you happy in the end and make your motor last for a longer duration if you take the time to do it. are your needles stock? if so id say 4th notch up maybe even 5th hard to say it controls tour mid range. dont try to cahnge everything at tne same time. do your pilot first air fuel screw should be between 1 and 2 turns out. more than 2 increase your pilot less decease. then get mains shot in i prefer doing my needles last. f you try to change eveything at once youll give your self a head ache. good luck

im not a 100% sure if domes require an increase in jets i know 20 cc domes is really close to race fuel. at 1900 ft with 20 30 c witch i think is 80 to a 100 degrees i would think you need to be around 310 on your main. and prolly 30 on your pilot jets. 27.5 would be good but the vf4s require a lil more fuel. best bet is to start at 340 work down to best preformance. dont take other ppls word on your jettting there just recamendations.

i have damn near exact same setup and elevation with same riding temp. 280 is dead on with mine 240 will end up bad for ya

i have sst"s bored 60 over open box stock carbs at 800 ft elevation 280 put me spot on in summer 70 to 100 degrees one up on clip from middle 30 pilot 1.5 turns out

put it (that oeice welded to subframe) there so the air box had a more rigid place to be held. and the back tires kept throwing mud and water into the air box that peice eliminated it completly. the back tires are not pit on backwards also the a arm on the left side, has a bad ball jjoint so it is not sitting properly. got new a arms +2+1 getting ready to paint them and put them on removing wheel spacers

75 hp what carbs are you running. i fig that a 4 mill would be higher thatn this

got a engine case?

well obviously a full radiator and over flow is to much fulid. heat builds the radiator reaches above 210 witch is going to cause coolant to steam and expand and going to fill the over flow and psh out the excess that is not need. in my expeirince the radiator ussaully only holds about 3/4 of fluid not full. as for your studscheck the tourque onthem suppose to do that after rebuild or reaseambly i have had a simialr probleom where i didnt get hose clamp tight enough and fluid ran down on to head and sat in stud contour.

wsh this would have been posted last week

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