Dlatch

when will these be available on your website?

where is the feedback review on these cylinder kits? In europe they would sell very well as there is very little good second hand cylinders available and junkers regularly advertised for $800 So if the quality and reliability matches the oem parts then these would do well, it does seem a missed opportunity to have not improved the design and save machining costs down the line ie: bigger waterways as suggested

i use the maxxis razr 2 on motocross tracks in the uk and they work great for me when it's wet also great and hard wearing when the track is dry hardpack dirt and gravel. wet grass is the slipperiest surface known to man

+1 on this idea and if anyone does this it must be yamaha. can they ignore the emission aspect if it is a offroad only machine?

i run standard airbox with snorkel and modded lid mesh covered hole and a K&N cone filter with outerware pre filter. i found this is pretty much the only setup that works for use on a wet MX track, it still can suck in a bit of water if you hit something really deep.

if the picture is fresh off your phone or camera then it is going to be a huge size, a great free software tool i use is Irfanview it is a free photo program http://download.cnet.com/windows/photo-editors/3150-2192_4-0.html once installed you can resize your pictures (match your desktop size) then you need to upload the resized picture files onto a webhost such as photobucket or post the link code into your post

They quote that they have a lifetime warranty so even if they were worn out after a season of use then they would replace free of charge. i have not tore down my shee yet to fit them but if you were worried they could walk down the arm spindle then you could mod the arms with small grub screws perhaps? from memory i am pretty sure my lonestar arms are machined at the ends so have a step, will take some pictures when i do the job for future reference I have the parts in my hand and quality looks great, will see how well they stand up compared to the plastic ones which only lasted a year with the quad being used around motocross tracks.

pivot works sell a needle roller bearing kit with a lifetime guarantee part numbers for banshee are PWAAK-Y02-000L Lower A-arm (does both sides) PWAAK-Y01-000U Upper A-arm (does both sides) just bought a set to fit during my winter rebuild

To compare the FMF vs DMC on a stock engine i have had both and the DMC win hands down every day all day long for me, as a compromise as all pipes will be the DMC just work great. if i was riding mainly twisty trails then the FMF work just great for that style riding. We gotta all admit though a lot of why we love certain pipes is down to the sound they make and again for me the DMC 916 sound fantastic with a intoxicating yowl you just want to keep it pinned all day long

I have the motion pro kit and i could have sworn i got it from ATV galaxy but it may have been from their ebay store rather than website direct. it has been a really great bit of kit not had any problems with it at all.

i love the idea of a EFI banshee never mind all the turbo nonsense i do wonder though what this setup would be like running a supercharger

what type of soil you running in? my local track is a very heavy clay mix and outwears and pod filters could not cope they were soaked in 4 laps, why do you find that hard to believe ? would love to run pods as there is a obvious performance gain but it is not possible where i ride

i tried pod filters + outwear pre filters at my local mx track and managed about 4 laps before getting problems with the carbs sucking up crap i went back to the standard airbox and modded the lid works great i did look at the K&N powerlids but heard mixed reviews

Spare engine is now rebuilt and back in the quad and running nice just a standard spec rebuild for now just debating on tackling the worn swing arm pivot bearings just know that it is going to turn into a nightmare lol

doing it now will save you having to strip the arms down to grease them in the future,

Camatv here in the UK we are really limited for places to ride so i pretty much only get to play on Motocross tracks and i am not really a mudplugger at all i even got ragged because of my mudflaps on here lol what i did discover today is how that water was getting in it was running down the stator wiring loom sleeve prob not helped by over zealous power washing by me and previous owners i will be sealing up all outer sleeving with silicone sealant on reassembly try and make this as water tight as possible

spare engine is dropped off for a rebuild old engine is out took me just under 2hrs not bad for my first time on the banshee now just gotta jet wash all the crap off it haha All the engine mounts are perfect, suspect problem with it is as said by others the crank has spun knocking it slightly out of phase, when i get some spare cash i will have to get that engine rebuilt to a 4mil setup

yes i seated the spare flywheel in with fine grinding paste, but the out of balance type vibration is the same but i think the rattle may be less as the flywheel is not hitting the stator coils. still runs perfect with good compression

Tried the spare stator setup today and got the flywheel nicely seated all ok started up second kick still has the exact same rpm related rattle/vibration i am thinking this engine needs a strip down as something ain't right and its best to stop using it before it does major damage so i will get my spare engine sorted and have a look at this one later

still impressed it ran as well as it did, also think i have found the source of the water getting in, the grommet where the stator wires pass through the engine case has a split in it. my spare one looks good but i think i will also seal around the wires inside the grommet with sealant. ordered some grinding paste so i can seat the spare flywheel. just debating on doing the ignition advance mod while i am at it

blocked overflow and knackered float valve will fill your transmission up with gas over time quite nicely especially if you don't turn off the fuel. that would be my first thing to be checking also a little fuel goes a long way when mixed you don't need a lot to make the oil smell of "gas"

check the vid to hear the rattle and vibration it felt kind of like a engine mount had come or something was out of balance, i knew the stator and flywheel was rusty when i got the banshee but could not find where the water was getting in so i was strongly suspecting this area as the culprit. hmm that looks odd do you think it is still balanced ok? lol Stripped it all out now and lucky for me i have a spare engine to supply a new flywheel, The flywheel nut was still tight but there was some up and down play so i and pretty certain that is causing the problem now i have cleaned it all up the crank has no play in or out or up and down with the fly wheel removed so looks promising. what do you guys suggest i do with the spare flywheel? i hear i should reseat the flywheel on to the taper using grind paste is this correct?

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think 2002 was square with rounded corners on the cdi (well it is on my 02 banshee)