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racerdonnie13

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About racerdonnie13

  • Birthday 11/26/1980

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, VA

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    Wyatt Kirk chassis drag banshee

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  1. I have one that ive ran for 2 years without any problems. Only issues ive had with it is when you go to buy parts for it. The domes and o-rings you have to get from trinity. And heaven forbid you loose a nut. A set of them is $100...
  2. I would get rid of them if it will be a drag racing quad only. You not only eliminate the weight, but will eliminate any rotor drag also. Ive never had any front brakes on mine.
  3. Anybody have any they wanna sell? 68mm
  4. Anyone know of a good place to order some studs? I need 8 M8 x 1.25 x 60mm i need the same thread length on both ends, not short on one end and long on the other.
  5. Big bore, small flange, chrome shearers. One out each side. Normal use wear. No dents or dings. Has repair on one mount where it connects to the footpeg. I didnt weld it. Looking to trade for a set of 40mm Lectron carbs. Setup for alky would be a plus but not necessary. I will pay all the shipping costs.
  6. Im not greedy, all i need is one...lol
  7. Looking for one 40mm lectron. Can be a straight 40 or a 40HV. I have one of each and im trying to make a pair. Let me know if anyone has one.
  8. Where is the best place to get new copper washers and acorn nuts from? Im having a hard time finding them.
  9. Ok i think im gonna find the right length studs, and get some new acorn nuts and copper washers. Hopefully that will solve my problem.
  10. I did try that also, but when i go to tighten the nuts down it just twists the stud back in.
  11. I bought a used 421 cub (whole motor) that was running with no issues. I pulled it apart, just for my own knowledge. Found a junk chinese crank, and only about 3 threads of the head studs were sticking out of the top of the head. Bought a new crank, seals, gaskets, and some extended head studs and put it all back together. The extended studs are for a pro design head so they are actually a little long for mine (chariot head). So i put the copper washers on the bottom plus two lock washers on top so i could get the nuts to tighten down. I had to use regular flange nuts cause the studs are too long for the acorn nuts. When i filled it up with coolant it started oozing out of all the head studs. My question is do the studs go down into a cub cylinder farther? I have a friend that runs a chariot head on a stock cylinder motor and his stock head studs work fine. I tried going back to the stock studs but i cant get enough threads to stick up out the top of the head. Are the chariot heads designed to work with the stock studs? Any help or info is appreciated.
  12. I bought a motor that it was in it like that. Like it is in the pic there is a washer under the bearing. So your saying i need to move the washer to the other side of the bearing?
  13. Heres my next question. I have this pancake bearing (pic below) that i tried putting in my other motor. It has a Hinson basket and pressure plate. the pancake bearing seems too thick and the pressure plate wont seat all the way. Like there just not enough room between the pressure plate and the clutch shaft. By looking at the stock pressure plate it sits down in the center there where the pancake bearing goes, and the hinson is flat in that area. Do they make a thinner bearing?
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