Jump to content

Free yellow banshee

Members
  • Posts

    211
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Free yellow banshee

  1. Here are some pictures of what the bike looks like now. Everybody loves pictures!
  2. I will try to test it that way tomorrow. I found a broken wire coming out of the Cdi and I tout that would fix the problem. It didn't. So here is what's going on right now. I pulled the wires out of the coil and to check the pin (see if wires were bad.) now I can't get them back in. I have read good things on here about dynatek. I can get a Cdi and coil for around 300. Then that leaves me with this piece of shit rm stator. I just want to get this thing together with quality parts so it will be somewhat reliable.
  3. Well I did some testing. I couldn't get an ohm reading on either coil. I took the wires out and tried to go from the pin in the socket to the contact tab on the outside of the coil. There was nothing. I had a blaster coil laying around and that ohmed out good. So now since I'm frustrated with this thing I'm just going to order a new eom Cdi, new eom coil, and new eom stator.
  4. Sounds good. I downloaded a manual. I will check them all out tomorrow.
  5. Yeah that's the plan. I'm just hoping I'm not overlooking something stupid. Thanks for the help.
  6. Well I still can't get this piece of shit to spark. Here is what I have done since last post. Tried my oem stator (has one bad winding from removal.) Set pickup to 0.18 Tried another coil Checked the ground by the voltage regulator Cleaned inside of flywheel Disconnected run switch Took tape of of the harness and inspected wires Tapped on Cdi box Cleaned grounds again where coil mounts Verified that the lights are not flickering I am waiting on a call from a guy I know. I'm going to see if I can use his Cdi box to test it. And I found my meter. I will be testing everything tomorrow.
  7. I saw that. I roughed them up really good last night with some sand paper. I'm sure its the pickup gap. I never set it. When the stator came in I just screwed it on. I'll update tonight.
  8. Yeah I wish I would have read all this before i bought it. I never set the pickup gap when I put it on. I will also be checking if I have lights flickering too. I'm hoping that is the problem. I'll set it to .018 when I get home. If not I will be ordering a stator. Here is the one I bought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-200-WATT-YAMAHA-YFZ350-Banshee-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-02-03-04-05-06-/121094509418?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c31cb936a&vxp=mtr
  9. So I will be checking everything with a meter tonight. Is there only 2 grounds on the bike? Looks like there is 1 coming from the stator and 1 from the voltage regulator.
  10. Thanks for the replies guys. I will get a meter and check it soon. The TORS was just disconnected at the harnesses and the little black box is gone. The parking brake is disconnected and the wire coming from the throttle has been removed. The bike is a 99. What year CDI's can I use to check it? I might be able to get my hands on one.
  11. So I got this banshee for free. I have never seen this bike run. I almost have it all back together and I don't have spark. This is what I have done so far. New stator with adjustable timing plate (eBay cheapo), bypassed key and connected the two wires, tors is completely removed, and I have tried two different coils. I have a manual, but havent tested anything cause i cant find my tester. I've been doing some reading on here and everybody says make sure grounds are clean. The only ground I saw was at the voltage regulator by the Cdi box. Any help would be appreciated.
  12. That will most likely be on the next build. unfortunatley my crank looks and feels good so I cant justify getting the hotrods yet. I will be in the future though. I am a mod freak.
  13. I imagine it will be. My blaster is far from slow though. It's a 4mm, 240, ported, with a 35mm carb. I could use a little more power though. I'm 6' 225lbs.
  14. ^^^^ sounds like a plan. I have never even ridden a banshee. I just figured I would get it ported while I have the bike in pieces. Here is a picture of my free banshee. It didn't look like this when it was given to me. It had flat tires, no brakes and hideous decals. I'm stripping the rattle can red off soon too. My 4 mm 240 blaster is in the background.
  15. I already installed a 200 watt stator with adjustable timing plate, I will be running v force 4's with my t5's.
  16. Just saw the serval was 1,000 dollars. So these would make a lot more power than ported stockers? I'm not a huge fan of plated cylinders though. I had a steel sleeve pressed in my kx250 rather than. Have it replated.
  17. Awesome. That's what I needed to know. So with stock carbs, ported cylinders, cfm airbox, k&n filters, and cool head jetting should be 27.5, stock needles and 280-300 mains? I ride at sea level.
  18. I forgot to mention that I just bought some t5's and I will be buying some carbs soon. I don't have any now.
  19. Hey guys. This is my first post. I recently aquired a free banshee. I bought a used motor and I need some suggestions. The cylinders are in good shape and measure 65.25 with 150 lbs compression. It has a cool head with 22 cc domes, and stock stroke. I ride track/trails. Should I just get these stock cylinders ported or sell them and buy a big bore kit? I saw the athena kit on ebay. I can get them ported for 375 or I can sell them with cool head for around 300. So basically I would be spending about the same amount of cash. I have a 4mm ported 240 blaster and I know the vitos kit is not that good out of the box (Needs port work.) Is there any BBK that would be good out of the box? I will also need some carb suggestions. Like I said I'm new to the banshee world and don't really know about the popular setups yet. So if you were in my shoes what would you do?
×
×
  • Create New...