noonansar

When you rebuilt the carbs did you replace the float needles and seats?

Could be a seal. Try a leakdown test.

Try adjusting the air (mixture) screw in half turn increments. Mine seems to idle good around 1 1/2 turns out , but every bike is different. Have you changed plugs lately? Fouled plugs can effect idle too.

916s, no question.

Holy shit! Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper/safer/lighter to just buy hub extensions?

I have had mine idle a bit higher as it leans out running out of gas, but nothing even close to running away.

How is the engine going to run away when it is out of gas? I have seen a buddys wheeler "run away" from an extreme lean idle condition, but never heard of an engine going into a high lean idle form running out of gas.

I have a couple of full sets of stock shocks that I am planning on selling, if you are interested pm me.

Sounds like a good start to me. I have dmc 916s and love them! They sound like a 2-stroke indy car. The 916s have better low/mid than my old pc platinums and the top end is a whole lot better than the pcs also. The pipes and silencer fit nice, and I am a big fan of the look.

I have good luck running sta-bil marine formula fuel stabilizer. I also turn off the petcock with the bike idling and let it run the bowls dry if I know my bke is going to set for a while.

Guess i will spend my time pit riding

Bracket racing? Lame.

My 4 mil will be done and tuned by then. I will probably check it out if they do it this year.

There are a few really good builders that are site sponsers on here.

As far as heads go I have a pro design and I like it. A ton of guys on here like Noss, and I hear good things about Chariot Performance. Those 3 all use the same domes. Your builder will be able to set you up with the correct domes for your setup when he ports your cylinders. Dome size depends on fuel type, elevation, and your desired compression. Whoever does your porting should be able to suggest dome size and be able to give you a decent idea on jetting.

I haven't run fmf pipes personally, but I hear they are a great all around pipe. I would definately bump up the compression for better low/mid torque.

Also, watch the for sale section on here. If you are not in a hurry you can score some great deals on some really nice used parts.

Sorry to hear about your wheeler being stolen. I had the same thing happen when I was in highschool with my old Blaster, so I know how frustrating it can be. The mods Jereme6655 listed are all excellent additions to what you had listed. The head is not necessary, especially if you are on a budget. The cool heads only show a minimal increase in cooling. The nice thing about the cool heads is being able to easily and quickly change domes if you either damage one or want to change compression. They also run o-rings instead of a gasket so head removal is easier than stock and the o-rings are re-useable unlike the stock head gasket. I would recommend the cool heads because of there convenience, but I ran a milled stock head for a couple years with no problem. As far as the billet pump impeller and billet drive gear go, I would use Mull Engineering. Mull also makes a modded shift star that cleans up the shifting a bit, and they sell directly on ebay. Another thing to consider is a heavier duty clutch kit. I hear f.a.s.t racing makes the best out there, I have never tried them. I have EBC dirt digger and it works good. Just remember to soak your fiber plates in oil before installing them. What are you running for pipes?

Billet impellers are cheap. They can be had for 50 or 60 bucks. A billet pump drive gear is about the same. It is cheap insurance for a motor, especially since most guys dont run a temp gauge. The way I see it is if someone can afford pipes, carbs, coolhead, porting...etc., they can afford 100 bucks for a billet impeller and drive gear.

Have you pulled the carbs and completely cleaned them?

Start with 320 mains. Should be a bit rich, work your way back until perfect. 27.5 pilots, start with needle in mid position. Dont bother trying to fiddle with the needle until you nail down your main size perfect.

I have been thinking of ordering a set of blue plastic from him on ebay, he has good feedback. U guys think I should steer clear? He sounds like a douche...

What is Ray's ebay name? Is it minkia38?

The stock fuel petcock (on/off/reserve switch) has a screen filter on it that sits in the tank. It filters the fuel before it enters the petcock. It is a fine mesh and can get clogged up with sediment starving the carbs of fuel. It is unlikely that it is clogged but is worth checking out. If you un bolt the petcock from the tank you will see the filter and you can rinse it clean with carb cleaner or brake cleaner.

^^^ I agree. Mine usually starts hard after running out of fuel, but it is far worse with fowled plugs. The screen on the petcock should catch most of the crap in the tank but not always...