noonansar

pm sent

pm sent

I ran klotz octane booster for 2 tanks after I had my stock head milled. It didn't take long to realize that all it was doing was leaving a ton of deposits in my engine. I was lucky enough to be doing a plug chop to check jetting while running the booster, that's how I noticed the heavy deposits and glazing on my plugs. I will post pics later of the chop comparison pump gas with booster vs without.

Did some more measuring. Exhaust: 28.5mm from top of cylinder to top of port, 71mm from bottom of sleeve to bottom of port, 45mm wide measured straight across. Intake: 71mm from top of cylinder to top of ports, 25mm from bottom of sleeve to bottom of ports, 50.5 wide measured straight across. Where can I expect power with these and how much compared to my current stock port cylinders considering transfers have not been ported. I am currently running dmc 916s, vf3 reeds. +4 timing, milled .030 stock head, pwk28 with uni pods, at sea level on 93 octane pump gas.

The top of the cylinder to the top of the exhaust port is 28.5mm and 45mm wide measured straight across on a 65mm bore.

I am hoping for some better mid range and top end. I paid 50 bucks for a complete 87 banshee not running and these were on it, so if these cylinders will run good without any transfer porting it is a bonus. Just trying to decide if it is worth the effort to swap these out and re-jet. My digital caliper wont fit inside my cylinder to get an accurate reading. I will try to measure it tonight and post the results.

.

here are a couple of pics of the intake and exhaust ports

That's what I was afraid of. I have a really good running stock port motor now, really no need to freshen it up. I just figured if these cylinders would give me a good boost in power I would swap them.

I have had bad luck trying to post pics on here but I will try in a bit. I forgot to mention that there are no markings on cylinders or else I would have contacted whoever ported them.

I recently bought a banshee for parts. When I pulled the engine and tore it down I noticed that the cylinders had been ported. It is a decent looking job, the cuts are even and clean. After reading here and researching I found that the intake and exhaust ports are cut similar to a dune port, but the transfers are entirely untouched. Just wondering if these are worth running and if they will make and decent power difference since the transfers are stock. Any help is appreciated

pm sent yesterday

I think that the asr ball joints are the way I am going to have to go. They are expensive, but still cheaper and easier than buying a reamer to make some odd-ball automotive tie rod ends fit, or taking the spindles to a machine shop and letting them do it. Thanks for everyone's help.

How are the heims in mud and water? I have heims now and am not too impressed. They have a ton of play and always squeak. Maybe mine are worn out or just cheap and cheesy

Still hard to see, I know.

The file is too big to attach. I have done some more research, they may be old asr arms, they do not have heims where the upper a-arm bolts to the frame. The ball joint thread is 3/4-16. All that I can find for that thread size are medium taper truck tie rod ends that require spindle reaming. My current spindles are not reamed.

That pic posted way smaller than I thought, I will get some pics of mine later today and post them.

I bought my shee used with these a-arms on it, they are +2 +1 and the tubing looks larger than most arms I have seen. The heims are worn out and I am trying to replace them with ball joints. Problem is that the thread on the heims is 18mm instead of the standard 16mm replacement heims or ball joints I can find, and the arm itself is threaded. Does anyone recognize these arms or know where I can find ball joints to fit them? I have spent several hours on several sites researching and can find nothing. The pic is one I found online, but they are the same arms that came on my banshee

I just put on a -2 and love it. I also have +2 +1 arms/+4 axle. Handling was much improved, a lot more traction, quicker steering, and better overall balance. Rides closer to my buddy's 250r. It may not be for everyone, but I wont go back to stock length.

Thanks for the advice. Luckily there is an atv/dirtbike/streetbike salvage yard near by so I should be able to find a radiator. I am hoping that I wont have to run a fan, but if I absolutely have to I will get a high output stator and run the stock fan and battery.

I want to take my time so that I end up with a clean build, I have seen a couple really nice ones on here. I ride alot of gravel pits and plan on doing a fair amount of jumping, I am just wondering if the heavier engine will throw off the balance of the entire wheeler and make it tail heavy.

Headed saturday to pick up a blown up 04 yfz. I have enough extra parts around to build an extra shee motor, so I planning on building a hybrid. I am just looking for any tips or advice that anyone may have before I start.

I will take the stator if it falls through^^

I have a set of 916s. I switched from pc platinums. The dmc pipes have about the same bottom, a much better mid range, and way better top end power. These are great all-around pipes and they respond well to other mods like +4 timing, higher compression, porting, reeds, etc...

pm sent