Young Guns Racing

I have 2 sets of pd top notch style domes. I beleive they both are big bore domes, 18 and 19cc. PM me if your interested and I will confirm for you. I'd take $40 shipped for the two sets if they are what you are after

Get your banshee top end redone now in the off season! Ship us your motor, we will pull your cylinders, bore to the next usable size, hone, install brand new wiseco pistons (unless otherwise specified), gaskets and spark plugs. Motors will be leakdown tested and come back to you ready to install and ride for $560 shipped back to you anywhere in the continental U.S.! All plated top ends can be done as well, pricing will vary depending on cylinder damage. We will be running this special through the end of January. Reeds, carburetor rebuilds, or anything else you may need or want to upgrade will be extra. No additional labor will apply for any additional top end components. Shoot us a PM here on HQ or an email to Jon@Younggunsracing.Com Thanks!

Cp has 68mm cubs and servals availabile in stock stroke for the 110 rods. Driveline has great products, no reason to shy away from them as an option.

Wiseco Clutch Baskets for your Banshee $250 shipped in the US!! Wiseco stands behind their baskets, inner hubs and all pressure plates by offering a LIFETIME WARRANTY! See the link below to read it straight from the horses mouth. "We will stand behind all Clutch Baskets, Inner Hubs, and Pressure Plates by offering a LIFETIME WARRANTY if they were purchased after 1/1/2009. This warranty covers breakage and notching and covers the original purchaser when proof of purchase is presented directly to Wiseco Piston Inc." https://www.wiseco.com/Powersports/ClutchComponents.aspx

Honda (4x110) & Yamaha (4x115) Polished 8x8 3B+5N Douglas DWT Blue Label .125 Rims -- $110 Shipped in the US for a Set of 2

Honda (4x110) & Yamaha (4x115) Polished 8x8 3B+5N Douglas DWT Blue Label .125 Rims -- $110 Shipped in the US for a set of 2.

Lots of places to start here...assuming you have float problems from raw fuel coming out of the pipes isn't necessarily accurate. First things first - you need to do a compression test seeing that you verified ignition. You're looking for about 120 psi or higher. If compression checks out - have you looked at your reeds and what kind of condition they are in? A leak down test wouldn't hurt matters either - having an air leak and over looking it spells trouble. Maybe this will get you started. Good luck!

Blown out reeds can definitely cause your bike not to start. Vforce reed petals are made of carbon fiber and after long periods (sometimes not even that long) start wearing and splitting. As well as a nasty backfire - when that kind of damage occurs and goes untreated the reeds will shatter and when they are no longer sealing can be forced backwards into the cage. Always check your reeds when you rebuild the too end - vital part of your intake and a simple fix to what could be a potential issue. Anyhow I second the compression test to help ensure no other damage has occurred. Replace the reed petals if all is well and ride on. Good luck.

X2. 4s will make a nice difference. Tho you're already jetted you will probably have to go up one size on your pilots. You won't regret them.

Elka shocks - new legacy (stage 3) series $925 shipped to your door in the US! and CPI pipes sale! http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/184582-ygr-xmas-elka-and-cpi-sale/#entry1766476

Elka Legacy Series Shocks (formerly known as Stage 3's) - Set of 3 will be sold now through the end of December for $925 shipped in the US for all HQ members! *Please keep in mind these kits are made to order for your setup so they can take up to 4 weeks to produce when things are busy - I will need to know rider weight, machine purpose, swingarm and a-arm details (length, manufacturer, etc). http://www.elkasuspension.com/products/kits/legacyseries-atv/ ANNNNND For CPI pipes we are offering the following sales as well:: Poor Mans Raw Steel Pipes will be $440 shipped in the US for all HQ members. & Chrome In-Frames will be $699 shipped in the US to all HQ members. Please bear in mind these pipes can take up to 2 weeks to produce and come back from chroming. If you would like standard in frames in raw steel we can do them for $575 shipped. &&&& As a bonus with us being a new PVL dealer, we are offering the Banshee system #70125 for an awesome $489 shipped in the US for all HQ members! To purchase any of our items please call the number below in my signature anytime Monday - Friday from 8:30 AM - 5PM EST - or simply shoot me an email to Jon@Younggunsracing.com Thanks to all and have a great Holiday season! **edit - as we are using one phone line for two business's currently, do not be alarmed when someone answers the line as "bob's small engine repair" - this was explained in my relaunch thread not long ago. Thanks again!

Its a bit of a wreck right now but you would be welcome to come on down. I really don't have alot on the shelf right now due to all of the changes and inventory we have going on with the small engine repair side of things but absolutely wouldnt be an issue for you to stop in.

It will likely be the stage 3s. I have a few more things to sort out first. I will be making a post here whenever a sale like that will be taking place

Thanks everyone, glad to have your support. I am hoping to throw together another Elka shocks sale this winter for Xmas and maybe another item or two

Alright, this is for some who already know and some who are in the dark. As most of you who are familiar with me and YGR you know that I have been absent on HQ for a while and things have not been too good for quite some time. Alot has been going on here and I need to update you folks that have been great customers and others that may be in the future as to what has been taking place. Some of you already knew I inherited my family's small engine / lawn and garden repair business. It had been my primary occupation for years until I came out with YGR which happened to be on the same premises as our other shop named "Bob's Small Engine Repair". It was my grandfathers business and his health is not been well in recent years so a few more family members and myself got involved and have been working very hard trying to organize things, renovate and keep this business running smoothly. Taking on that extra load and burning the candle at both ends has been really tough for me to give the attention necessary to YGR and our customer base. I have tried to hire help, some unfamiliar faces, a few friends in between and family as well - none of which did their jobs very well in the end and left me high and dry as an end result. Orders were not getting placed, certain vendors were tough to get in tough with, payments were not being processed - it was a nightmare. So in light of those events I decided several months ago to put YGR on hold as far as internet sales were concerned. It was unfair to our customers to tie up time and money with poor results. Beyond all of those issues, some family members decided they did not want to sign or agree to the paper work that would come into play concerning the ownership of the small engine repair shop. Disputes arose, problems and words were exchanged and it was not an easy process to go through. In the end of it all, agreements were reached, paper work is in place and the small engine repair shop is up and running as planned. That being said and those issues now solved, I have turned attention back to YGR. For now we have consolidated the two business's into one building and currently do not have a YGR dedicated phone line. So for the time that may be I will be accepting phone calls and phone orders through the small engine shop number which is listed in my signature - result - for a few weeks or so, don't be alarmed if you give us a ring and someone answers "hello, bob's small engines" - just specify you are looking to speak to Jon about ATV parts. This line will be accessible from Monday - Friday from 8am - 5pm and will be MUCH more reliable than any previous contacts we have had before. The dedicated line for YGR is in place - wiring just needs to be ran and it will be under the same M-F principles as I stated earlier and just as easily accessible. I would also like to mention that we are redoing some of our products and listings on our webpage as well, some items did not sell well and as a result we are dropping them, some did very well and we will be pushing them as such. So all in all, I am going to be involved here on HQ once again, we have went through some troubling times and are now beginning to see the light. Much needed changes are being implemented and we are going to have a solid contact number for the first time. I apologize to those who have tried to contact us, those who's orders took longer than usual and everyone else in between - these problems are solved and shouldn't be a factor here in the future. Thanks for taking the time to read this mess lol. I hope there is some understanding and that I may be talking to lots of you in the future. -Jon

I have one where the lighting wire has been repaired. I will dig it out and shoot you pics

Lol in an event to try and salvage this - you original post is veeery vague. Do you already have a motor setup and are you looking for gearing pointers? Do you want suspension recommendations? What kind of 300ft track are you running- dirt, clay, sand, asphalt? Or are you looking for an entire build recommendaction from the ground up? Just asking whats a good drag setup is not going to get you very far.

And as for Brandon - its already been addressed. I spoke to him several months ago - his work is minimal right now dealing with his fathers accident and running his company. His plate is more than full - could be a while before he can come back full force. Very good dude nonetheless, Brandon turned out lots of impressive builds.

I took the blaster crank to now the only local machine shop we deal with - had the guys disassemble, inspect and press everything back together in spec. They guy told me everything down to the bearing checked out - I trust his judgement. And I do not have a jig to measure run out - they do. I have a press but that and a few feeler gauges just isnt good enough lol. Anyhow, they guy who did the work ended up buying the crank for his sons blaster build. He was going to weld the pin for strength and reliability, he is happy and so in the end so am I. The side clearance was not the best at .040 but not too bad. - a "part time employee" was supposed to measure all of those things - he called it good and so I did not question it - its what I get for not checking it myself, better safe than sorry. Nonetheless I refunded the original buyer 100% and things are good - he decided to go +3mm so he would not have to trench the cases and is proceeding with his build.

I got a lockout, Thanks for everyone who showed interest!

[quote name="ZillaFreak" post="1701580" timestamp="14254 BF is use to KOR would can turn a cylinder in like a week because he doesn't have any other work to do. Everyone knows that a real engine builder takes their time and are busy. No different with me. If I do not have the full time to sit down and work on your cylinder properly - its gotta sit until that time comes. Rushing such a thing will get you into really bad situations and then you will have REAL problems on your hands. I like to take pride in what I do as well, that cannot be rushed.

Lol thanks guys. All in all I am not bitter with him one bit. The cylinder work should speak for itself and I will await his reviews. Once again, thanks for the support.

I had the cylinder between 3-4 weeks before the local post office did whatever they did with it for a solid week. All in all he has been without it around 5 weeks. Edit:: I received the cylinder somewhere between Feb. 4th - Feb 6th.