Mighty Shee

Trickedcarbine, the picture of the switch you posted is exactly what I have. I will plug it into my CDI and keep it on there. I'll mess with the switches/curves while out at the dunes. Thank you.

Don't mean to hijack this post, but prefer not to start a new one on the same subject. I have the Dynatek on my 96 Banshee, but the selector switch is not attached to the CDI. The selector switch I had stored away in my tool box so I'm assuming I'm set at Dyantek "stock" curve, correct? In order to keep the curve I select when using the switch do I need to leave the switch connected on the CDI? This would also allow me to switch the maps on the fly while riding I'm assuming. The switch has settings for curves 1,2,3,4. How would I set the switch to curve 3 +5 I see on this chart?

I've ran 40:1 since I converted to a 4 mill with stock carbs 3 years ago. It still runs strong. No issues at all!

Mine would bog in 4th gear going up a hill because it had a leak between one of the carb boots and the reed cage. Once I fixed the leak no more bog.

Thanks all. These are for a 4 stroke 250. I'll be trying them out next weekend at Glamis and hopefully I don't have any issues.

Difficult to read the tape measure, but one of the pics reads 8 inches and the other 9 inches. The shortest distance between any two paddles is 7 inches.

Have you ever checked the spacing between you Skat-Trak paddle tires? I just picked up a new set from Skat-Trak and once I got home I realized that spacing between all 5 paddles is not equal. Looking at the tire from the side that has the valve stem I see white chalk marks. i measure the spacing between those marks and the spacing is equal. If I flip the tires over so that i'm looking at the part of the tire that will be facing in there are no white markings. I measure the spacing from where the paddle starts (where the white chalk marking should be) to where the other paddle starts (where the white chalk marking should be) and the spacing is different on all 5 paddles. As if they only paid attention to the spacing of each paddle on the outside of each tire. Is this normal? Will I see performance issues such as a wobble when using at high speeds?

SOLD

2004 Zieman trailer. Rear sliding ramp. You can load your quads from the side or the rear of the trailer. Large aluminum box. All new lights installed last year. Pick up only. Please click on Craigslist link, or copy and past address in browser for pictures. $1,200. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/snw/4681066739.html

Prior to buying this chain slider about 3 months ago my last Cascade chain slider was on there for about 9 years. It was still good. The only reason I bought a new one was because I changed my entire rear end and I figured I install all new chain guides and slide while I was at it.

I use the Cascade Innovations Chain Slider. Works great. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_view.cfm?store_area_id=3&STORE_DEPT_ID=10

So just following up on my findings. I removed the chain entirely and put the brake caliper back on. Spinning the rear wheels by hand still felt a bit tighter than spinning my stock banshee rear wheels by hand WITH the chain, caliper and lock nuts on. I removed the zerk from my bearing carrier and AIR and some grease popped right out the hole. This made spinning the wheels by hand allot better (still no chain on and with rear caliper ON). This was part of my problem. Once I put the chain back on and spin the wheels it doesn't spin as free like it does with the chain off (expected). Now I'm thinking my brand new chain slides and chain are causing me to feel more resistance on this quad than with my stock quad. I guess now I'll just have to ride it and the chain and chain slides should wear some within a season so that it feels more like my stock Shee by the end of the season.

bluebanshee, at about how many hours would you say the bearing should be "broken in"?

Stock (14 tooth).

So I installed a new rear end on my Banshee. The new rear end includes +2 JL Engineering round house swing arm, JJ and A twin row bearing carrier and bearings, Dominator 2 axle, Streamline rear brake rotor, EBC brake pads, x-ring chain, steel front/rear sprockets, plastic T.M. Designworks case saver. When I lift the quad off the ground and spin the rear wheels by hand I can feel more resistance when spinning the wheels on this quad than when I spin the wheels on my bone stock banshee. It feels heavier. Is this normal? I loosened the axle nut to the point where it doesn't touch the sprocket hub, I removed the brake caliper, and adjust the bearing carrier forward so that the chain is loose. The resistance is still more on this quad than on my bone stock Banshee. Can't figure out what is wrong IF anything, or do I simply need to break in the new parts so that the tires spin as easy by hand as do the ones on my other Shee?

Can't wait to see it happen!

I'd also get a matching rear. Just ordered my rear Elka Long Travel stage 4 for my rear to match my LT Elka fronts.

I'll be ordering a new rear long travel stage 4 shock from Elka this coming Friday. I've decided that I also want to use their linkage, but this damn thing Iisabout $490. Not sure if i want to buy a used one to save some money or if i will just bite the bullet and buy it new. Does anyone out their have one still in good/like new shape you'd be willing to part with and at what cost?

^^^^ I agree with willaduncan. I also use the Holeshot HD's on my 4 Mill for desert riding. I like the way they hook up.

Something I'd expect to see at a low rider show, but not on a Shee.

I removed my front ones 2 seasons ago. Haven't had any issues.

Lol

Thanks for the info guys.