Mighty Shee

I just went through this same problem. I purchased a Roll Design steering stem and new bearing clamps from Farm and Sand Toys. I had a bit of play from that same area you’re describing. The Roll Design steering stem measured the exact same in diameter as the stock steering stem. I went ahead and ordered those clamps in your picture from Yamaha (factory replacement) and problem solved. No more play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re-torque the head and base nuts. Replace head gasket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would start by checking the reeds. My right reed once went bad while at Glamis. No power in 4th and 5th gear. My intake boot was leaking gas from where it meets the cylinder. When I opened her up I found that the reed was wide open. It was not closing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t see the measurement on the caliper when he measured it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is exactly what they did. When I went back to have them help me figure out why I had lost so much compression the owner was not very interested in helping. As if I was wasting his time. I’ve dealt with him before and that’s the type of personality he has. He already had my money so at this point he didn’t care much to help. Moving forward I’m going to Kevin at Herr Jugs. I’ve dealt with Kevin and it’s been a pleasant experience every time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. This sucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If my timing is off now because of the Pro-X Blaster pistons and I start it will it just run like crap or will it Granade? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If my timing is off now because of the Pro-X Blaster pistons and I start it will it just run like crap or will it Granada? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, or I would need to buy a cool head and new domes for the cool head Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found the issue to the loss of compression. Went back to the shop with my old pistons and my quad. After scratching their heads over this they finally Figured out the old pistons in my Banshee (Wossner) were taller measured from the piston pin to the crown vs The Pro-X BLASTER pistons they sold me. Why the hell did CT Racing did not tell me this from the get go? Had I known this from the get go I would have insisted on Wossner pistons or Wiseco pistons. They instead sold me what they could get their hands on the quickest. To gain compression they had to mill the head even more. Now I’m at 155 psi, not the 165 I used to have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I was talking about the gasket when I said 68mm. The guy at Cometic did say that if my bore is not 68mm I may be losing compression by using them. Unfortunately the shop will not open till Monday and I’m heading out of town on Sunday and won’t be able to go to the shop till late next week. At this point I’m thinking it may be the base gaskets at 68mm are too big for the cylinders and that’s what causing my loss of compression. I’ll post my finding here once I correct my issue for everyone else to see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not fired her up. I was thinking I should probably take it to the shop that did the hone before I fired her up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I lubed the rings I lubed the cylinder walls I lubed the top of the pistons I lubed the side of the pistons with the residual lube left on my fingers from lubing everything else The motor was using Cometic before the rebuild and I put in Cometic after the rebuild. Before was 65.5mm kit part number C7094, after is 68mm kit part number C7316. The quad already had a milled head and was/is a 4 mil before the build Nothing other than a hone was done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Cometic gasket kit I was using before the hone is a 65.5mm kit (C7094). The new kit sold to me by the shop that did the hone is a 68mm kit (C7316). I just called Cometic and the Tech. there told me that both those kits should be the same thickness. I don’t have calipers to measure my exact bore, so could say exactly what my bore is. Maybe I’m losing compression cause my gasket kit is too big for my bore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had piston slap after running motor for about 30 min. with no left K&N filter pod at the dunes. My cylinders compression was at 163 (left) 165 (right) after being ran with no filter and before I took apart the top end. I removed top end and took cylinders to CT Racing In Southern California. He honed my cylinders after he received my new Pro-X piston to match them to the hone. I put my top end together with the new pistons and performed a leak down test (she held 7 psi for 7 min). When I did a compression test using the same tester I used before I put together my honed cylinders with new pistons it’s now reading 118 (left) 120 (Right). Is it possible that the new hone would have caused the compression to go down? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It doesn’t seem as if there is any stress applied to this o-ring, only that it would be smashed between the two case halves. If I cannot find a new one in Southern Ca. today I guess I’ll just try using CA glue to glue the two ends back together. I’d rather find a new one to buy. Anyone have any info on my seal question? I’m thinking new crank seals mean a bit tighter crank seals for at least until they are broken in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4 mil Hot Rod crank, not got rid crank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had new bearings installed in 4 mil got rid crank. I place it in the bottom half of case and it spins freely. I’m doing this without the top half of case. Once I install the 2 new crank seals the crank is a bit tougher to turn. I did pack the inside of the seals with plenty of grease. Is it normal that the crank would be a bit less smooth to turn with brand new seals? Also, I ripped the darn rubber band that goes around the red piece in the middle of the crank. What’s that rubber piece for and can I still install the crank with that rubber broken? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it. I do not. I have the stock one on and it has not been altered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When going to Hungry Valley you need to go through a ranger station booth to get in. At that station you will be charged a fee to get in and will also be checked for spark arrestors and registration. They are not lenient. You will not get in without either.

I'm in So. Cal. Gorman is the name of the city in which the Hungry Valley riding area is in. Some people like to call it Gorman, but it's Hungry Valley where you will be riding. That place is about 4k - 7k in elevation. If you are jetted for Oceano Dunes/Pismo beach you will need to drop your jetting a bit.

Digging that 4 gallon IMS tank.

I'm already running 50% 91 octane and 50% 110 octane, so I'm going to try curve 3 and see how it runs.

Thanks Keno.