hoppedupandcutdown

It's still green/yellow

Let me know what you find out, I personally don't think the frame needs to be grounded if all your black wires are intact. And, with the chain,clutch cable,and most aftermarket exhaust, how it wouldn't be grounded anyway. Because is sure isn't meant to make contact through the mounts. But I'm going to do some testing on that myself.

Still have TORS? Thumb switch sticking?, might try unplugging it. You did test the key switch as if the wires are connected to run? just spit balling here, I did have an older bike that the thumb switch wouldn't shut a bike off.

Stole this pic off of Ebay, a quick place to find alot a crap.

You didn't unplug your key switch, did ya?

As in hanging loose under the stator cover?

I'd like to help, but, what?

Let me start this by saying that I'm a huge advocate for proper grounds. I've fixed many an odd problem on cars, boats and RV's because of bad grounds. My Dad was a GM service rep ,and in 1968 found out why the new body style GTO's with automatic floor shifts were all seizing the shifter cables. No ground strap to the body,and ground was trying to run through the shift cable. I too was wondering about the Banshee electrical system and proper grounding since I just installed my motor in a freshly painted frame. I did "bare metal" all the mounting points of all mounts. But after buyiing and using 4 new damper shims, I couldn't see how the motor would possibly touch the frame- metal to metal. Not that the Yamaha engineers purposely meant to isolate the two, but they certainly didn't do the opposite either. Anyway, tonight I removed my chain,clutch cable,lower exhaust springs, exhaust brackets, and disconnected my wiring, Ohm meter proved it- totally isolated. I can't believe these don't come with a ground strap from the factory.

You don't, just make sure it's not touching anything.

Do you have a Green/yellow wire coming out of your CDI touching ground?

My mount clear upfront (with gussets underneath) so it can't be seen thru the cooling holes in the front plastic

This is right out of Elka shocks install book: RECOMMENDATIONS TO ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT Whatever ride height setting you choose, the height must be similar at the front and rear of the vehicle, with the front slightly higher (from 1/4 to 3/4 inch maximum). A higher ride height will provide more ground clearance with less chances to bottom out but will make the suspension stiffer. A lower ride height will reduce the ground clearance and make the suspension softer, but will make the vehicle more prone to bottoming out.

Yes, I can't tell you how many pick up coils in HEI distributors I've changed when the car will run on one and not the other and they both test the same ohms.

Check the connector plugs for continuity, I've bought new electronics and the terminals were only crimped to the insulation on the wires. And old ones could be corroded or have broken pins or loose female ends.

They will go in backwards if they are in the wrong side.

$575.00 raw on F.A.S.T's site

I remember having to grind on the lid, if you're gonna run it.

Black and black/white wire from switch, connected together- no run. Those two put a switch anywhere.

If you're just putting on a Pro-flow, why are you taking it apart there anyway?

No troll, he's just retod-did

where did you end up getting your Shearers, and how's the fit and finish?

You probably broke the eccentric screw off. easy fix

That should be the parking brake safety switch. If I remember right.

Several things...switching the plug wires only tests the wires and boots,and spark plugs. One coil-two wires, if the coil fires, both wires should too. You might check the wiring coming from the stator and pickup coil and that connecter. BUT, if it's firing with your hand over the carb, then you have an air leak somewhere. Has it ever run right for you? Someone on here bought a Banshee that had two of the same carb slides. Or your choke plunger could be drawing air. It doesn't seem as if you have actually narrowed it down between electrical or air/fuel.

Agreed,don't prime if you don't need too. Although I only urethane cleared a set of Fullbores for a guy and it still cracked when he rolled it, but he did still have full rear fenders.