hoppedupandcutdown

I'm sure someone here can help you out. post it here in the wanted section too http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showforum=26

I don't think that they have a serviceable bearing, just a spacer/bushing that is removable. And that's not shown on the parts breakdown.

Just finished a few bolt-ons on my son's new Chevy 1500

The one I had done,only modified the drum, not the case. the bearing should just slide in.

X2 -they have no fan behind the radiator, get to riding...

WOW noob, Starwriter is one of the most helpful and knowledgeable members here, what you fail to understand is at your temp and elevation and jet you say you're running --- something is terribly wrong !

Always run premium fuel, always mix at least 32:1 ratio, that's a pint of oil to 4 gal of gas. Or buy a mix cup to mix more or less fuel accurately. (alot of people run 40:1 or less, but 32:1 is widely considered the safest choice) If you're willing to do maintenance, you will soon be competent in doing your own repairs. With a Clymers manual and the guys here, it's really easy to learn about the Banshee.

I don't know what people have been telling you, I use my Banshee for EVERY type of riding. Without problem.

Transmission takes its own oil. Keep in mind that a good premix oil is gonna add about 9 bucks to every 4 gallons of gas. But since their are no valves to adjust or timing chains to go bad, I'm O.K. with that expence.

They say one jet size is good for difference of 30 degrees on a stock bike. I run the same jets year round in my stockish bike, a little rich for a 90 degree day, but it doesn't foul plugs, and I still ride it down in the '40s in winter. Done that for years with no problem.

Buy it...I own two Banshee's, three yfz450s, and a raptor 250. Every bike other than the Banshee's are for my kids and wife. I would rather fix and maintain my 2 strokes any day. I've had my '96 on the same bore since '96, clean the air filter,change the oil, treat it to a new chain and sprockets before they are bad enough to break, and the bike will last. Be good to it and it will be good to you.

I stuck very well, the sand did dull it but it would polish right back up with fine scotchbrite. I'm sure it was actually an aluminized coating, never wore through. Had them for probably 8 years, 5 or so dune trips a year.

HaHa, I had to Google that, sometimes I'm feel so behind the times. But yea, it's near impossible to give a straight answer on FB anymore.

sum folks jus b aksin fo it

Had a guy on here that had corrosion in the harness where all the ground wires split off. rear of where the lighting bullet connectors are. 1 wire splits to 5 i think.

I've had 2 sets of T5's at the same time, one set chrome and a raw set I had Ceramic coated on my son's bike, we always rode together at the dunes. Both bikes had the same mods. The ceramic coated ones were always cooler, and cooled off quicker. I can't say that I knew if it would change the performance of the pipe or not.

The oil in your right crank area is left over premix that was unburnt or spit out the pipe since you had a hole in that piston. Did you notice if was sparkly? piston dust will be hard on the crank bearings.

Did you find someone with 2-stroke experience to bore it?

You are correct...I always remember by thinking if you pulled back on the chain that is the direction the motor would twist. They are between the frame and the motor on the two main motor mount bolts.

It will work.

Do you have a twist throttle with a thumb throttle cable? or vice-versa?

I do, after I get a baseline from the rear tires, to be sure they are pointing straight forward.

I strap my handle bars and measure in a X pattern to the back so they stay perfectly straight. Then bungee cord a cheap laser level to the outside of the rear tire pointing forward. From there, set the toe to parallel to the rear, then in a little. just can't ever seem to eyeball that stuff.

Just an example of trying to diagnose over the internet. Unless you switched them...