hoppedupandcutdown

Exactly what did you use?

Do you have the slides in the correct cabs? The caps should always be tight, check for air leaks, and don't let it idle for 15 mins, it has no cooling fan.

I use a cheap vacuum/low pressure gauge from the auto parts store.

awesome dude, really

http://jdscustoms.com/Yamaha_Banshee_CDI_Relocation_Bracket_.htm Is the one your after look like this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140914244671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 I've been watching these, good deal even with the shipping

625 views, should of held a raffle for this, 50cent tickets, you'd been money ahead. BUMP, for a good jack, mine has never let me down.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Look at post number 3 and 9. make sure yours looks the same. Buy a manual.

It's not a pressurized oiling system, and that is at the very top. I would think you will be OK. If you find your left pant leg is oily, stop and check your trans level.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 picture/post number 12

clutch actuator seal. You will have to pull the clutch apart, remove the ball and rod, then that will pull straight up and out. new seal on top there, done. Degrease everything first.

Little Sahara sand dunes are like a blowjob, maybe not the best, but not bad at all. I'd rather my dunes have no teeth than drive to Cali and risk the dunes having an adam's apple. It's a metaphor...

Is it possible those 190's have been drilled out? That just don't seem right.

Just a thought, might check the vent hole on the top of the slide...make sure its not covered by the bracket that holds the cable on.

The Yamaha parts fiche I used showed the 84 RZ350 shared the same part numbers for the shaft, washer and nut as the Banshee. Post some pics

Last I spoke with Andy he quit messing with them , cuz they're flaky. I called Full Bore direct and they said they only had raw materials to do blue and orange, at that time. I would definitely only order from someone that actually had them in stock.

Yamaha actually calls for motor oil for the clutch. It will ALL work, just be sure it does NOT have "friction modifiers" Out of this group on here, EVERY oil ever made has been tried and everyone has a preference,with varied results.

Yes it is normal. Make sure to put the bowl with the "BB" on the outside on that carb

OK then, re-do it now. Truth be told I'm not happy with mine either. It's a very vibrant color on the side of a car, but with only small tubing showing it's WAY darker than I expected. I keep telling myself it will be fine, but, it will get re-done this winter. my 2cents.

Same options on mine, black/black, front disc brakes, 2 owner car, only had rusty quarters... Man, I wish I had that car back now.

I shipped a '67 Mustang GT to AU, and filled it to the brim with restoration parts. No problems at all.

http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-tires-wheels/72456-formula-43-racer-red.html I still sometimes amaze myself, goggled your color for some more pics and found this. This is why I hate selling paint jobs from color chips, especially ones off the internet.

Your frame looks a lot like Porsche guards red to me, one of the brightest reds you will find. I've sprayed a lot of it. I think it will be fine once you get all it's clothes on. Unless you really want a more Hugger orange.

↑↑↑ Yep, All that ↑↑↑

Those readings are all good. On the yellow to black your ohmmeter should read between 0.26 and 0.38 Ohms, darn near zero, maybe your tester wasn't set to the correct value range, that is the lighting part anyway. My meter has a tone at zero and it sounds on known good lighting stator circuits Green to red on stator Your ohmmeter should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms The striped wires from the pickup coil You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms I pretty sure you have 3 good stators but the high end miss, who knows, my bet would be plug wires, or caps, but could be anything breaking up.