hoppedupandcutdown

So, all you did was swap carbs and now you're not getting spark?

Hey, we all had to start somewhere. Read and re-read... much to learn. your above problem is the reason for a leak-down test.

Check the black and orange wires on the coil, sometimes they get yanked off when you're jacking with carbs.

He's actually referring to your nooby-ed-ness. But it's O.K. to be young and enthusiastic...welcome to BHQ

I assumed since you rode it since you cleaned the carbs you would know about the rubber crossover tube, still there right? also, slides in the proper cabs? did you change anything else from running to not running?

You do know that the key switch wires have to be tied together to run, right? A lot of folks do a little to good of a job cleaning up wires.

You were actually right the first time, a better reading this way

Also do a leak down test http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

Glad to see you're doing your homework on all things Banshee...It's an addiction. I've had at least one at all times since they came out. Be sure to get yourself a Clymers manual and read through it when you can, even parts you don't understand will help you eventually. And if your looking for fuel economy you more importantly need to do a leak down test. That will check the engine for air leaks.

When you get ready to drill and tap, put a broom handle or something similar in the carb body so as not to drill thru and nick the other side of the carb throat. It is soft metal and drills and taps very easy, no need to push hard. Also when putting it all back together, the slides in the carbs are left and right specific, they will go into the wrong carb backwards, and give you fits when running.

X2

On a compression test, be sure to hold the throttle open and kick until the needle doesnt climb anymore

I've looked before and their website says the water repellant ones flow the same air as the regular ones, I've couldn't find anything on why they offer both. They also say the water repellant-ness doesn't last but about a year, a can't be re-applied.

start by switching your plug wires and see if the right side pops instead, that will test your wires and caps.

I've got a very,very nice set of chrome PT mids, pipes only though. $220.00 shipped

What year? Still have parking brake wires hooked up?

It has nothing to do with the plates and steels. When you pull the lever all you are pushing against are the springs. If you have no binding from the actuator/rod/ball/adjuster, then it has to be your cable. Take it off, hold it vertical and spray it, work it, spray it, work it, spray it, work it, etc.

^^^ That and a new clutch cable or clean and lube the one you have.

Might want to check with them, as they don't even offer one that size now... http://www.jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/d18.html

I used the long bolt from a coil spring compressor and some tubing or pipe and an old bearing to press them in. I don't like hammering on bearings of any kind.

THIS?

THIS,and the thread is less than an hour old? I'm not sure you have the patience for this build. Seriously, a lot of guys on here can give you some insight, but truth is, even the best built frames can have handling problems, let alone first time home builts.

Only place that I know of where you have to go downhill to get to higher ground !

You can also take a piece of straight stock, about 1" by 6" and drill two holes in it corresponding to the two lower left screws in the side cover, then when the cover is off, bolt that piece on to mimic the spot on the side cover that usually hold the shift shaft in. That way you can shift it and see what is going on. Not running of course, and will need to be spinning the back tires.