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hoppedupandcutdown

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Everything posted by hoppedupandcutdown

  1. hoppedupandcutdown
    OK, here's mine. Homemade, zero dollars. Yeah maybe a slight case of OCD.
  2. hoppedupandcutdown
    Maybe it's just me that's confused, but I would just turn the idle up.
  3. hoppedupandcutdown
    Did you install TORS eliminator idle screws ? Are you referring to the air screws at 1.5 out? If it won't idle, turn the idle up...
  4. hoppedupandcutdown
    What's it do when you turn the idle screws?
  5. hoppedupandcutdown
    Clues you have none shit you do talk What's your elevation? Did it run hot before install of the pipes?
  6. hoppedupandcutdown
    4460 - 28 = 4432
  7. hoppedupandcutdown
    The choke is actually a fuel enricher. If it is taking it and not drowning itself you may have an air leak. Did you do a leak down test on your new build? And are the bowls on the correct sides?
  8. hoppedupandcutdown
    HaHaHa, Crap, I just spit chips all over myself...
  9. hoppedupandcutdown
    I've actually had good luck welding a nut on broken bolts like that, creates heat and gives something to grab.
  10. hoppedupandcutdown
    I always file it flat so you have a nice square surface to center punch, then a left hand drill bit and some heat, should come right out.
  11. hoppedupandcutdown
    That's cuz Banshee's are awsome...welcome to BHQ
  12. hoppedupandcutdown
    You're killing me, Benjamin. That's an early diagram. Go look under the seat on your banshee at the CDI.
  13. hoppedupandcutdown
    did you do anything with the wiring from the park brake switch? Back at the CDI find the green/yellow stripe wire, cut it and tape it off.
  14. hoppedupandcutdown
    ^^ So you can smell it before you see it ^^
  15. hoppedupandcutdown
    Window is on the inside on the left carb, hard to see.
  16. hoppedupandcutdown
    Green circle - cutout that needs to face air filter Red circle - ramp for idle screw (if installed correctly) Sometimes you need to file more off the carb body to allow the idle screw to go in far enough to lift the slide.
  17. hoppedupandcutdown
    I had one with lock-tite on the splines, a little heat from a propane torch on the hub worked fine. Would work for paint or rust too.
  18. hoppedupandcutdown
    Lets air in at idle, should be able to check without pulling apart
  19. hoppedupandcutdown
    Very hard to say, I bought play cut 9's, but recently had a guy with a 421 cub beat me bad with 6's. And any variation with staggered cuts only adds more options.
  20. hoppedupandcutdown
    They will fit in the wrong carb backwards.
  21. hoppedupandcutdown
    Sorry, all ready have it back together. Didn't think much of it when it was apart. Just noticed it on the reference pic I took when changing out the trans.
  22. hoppedupandcutdown
    Padla-brats come factory molded with 18 paddles, they cut them down to 9 or 6 for you. which is "play cut" or they shave off more rubber in between the paddles down to the carcass for a "race cut"
  23. hoppedupandcutdown
    Thanks, guys. Looking closer at the F.A.S.T. invoice on my motor that I got from the guy I bought the bike from, it does say "Banshee case porting for Cubs"
  24. hoppedupandcutdown
    I changed the trans in my 421 Serval 4mm 115 rod and noticed these marks in the crank area. What's it from/for? I was under the impression a 4mm didn't need trenching. and I've not seen trenching like that.
  25. hoppedupandcutdown
    http://www.bansheehq.com/bansheehq-sponsors/ http://www.nossmachine.com/

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