hoppedupandcutdown

I've read that too, but I have 2 Banshee with 2 different model ASV's and no problem. I have seen some aftermarket perches require a ferrule to space the cable housing.

Here's a Yamaha part number trick. Your bolt is # 97017-06010-00 The center set of numbers tells us it is a 6mm by 10mm long bolt. You just have to know the 6's are 6x1.0mm thread pitch. Keep in mind that at only 10mm long a bottom tap may be required for that hole. I believe it is a blind hole.

Check that the air pilot jet is indeed a 1.6, it's located on the air filter side in the horn. A pilot jet (25up) will screw in, but are too huge to work .

A recent listing on West Coast ATV https://westcoastatvparts.com/shop-1/ols/products/jja-26-drag-axle?fbclid=IwAR21uAhV9UWHkg4mEZoXNqitTEuSxJv4FW6KqWVIaZPzKus9owVTmaiI8Nw

Always a good idea to buy a little longer chain and cut it down to fit on the quad for sure.

I prefer stock 14/41 sprockets. With that a +4 requires 117 links.

Key switch needs continuity to run. Thumb switch can not have continuity to run. OFF grounds the black to the black/white. Borrow a good known CDI and try that. (no way to test one)

If you have continuity through the switches and they are good, borrow a CDI and try it. I recently had mine go bad from a lightning strike. Worked one day and not the next.

I'd get title before starting the build.

If you can get one that cheap and easy, get it. Having the auction paper work is to your benefit. Even States that don't require paper work, (like here in KS) getting a title is a nightmare.

As the elevation above sea level (0') increases, there is less oxygen per volume of air (lower density). Typically you'll need to rejet your mains one size for every 1500'-2000' elevation difference; jet smaller when going to a higher elevation and jet larger for going to a lower elevation Whenever you alter the amount of air flowing in or out of your motor, you'll need to rejet to compensate. More air flowing in from a more efficient air filter will result in a leaner air/fuel ratio; more air flowing out from more efficient pipes will do the same thing; in both cases you'll need to rejet to compensate (typically larger mains and sometimes larger pilots as well, depending on the mod). http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

You have WAY to much compression and are certainly running to low octane fuel.

Your friend is wrong. A clutch grabbing is not bad. Adjustment or a grooved basket is your problem. Although if it gets better after warming up, I consider it normal.

That's not necessarily true about synthetic oil. Most is wet clutch compatible. And this post is over 9 years old.

^^What they said.

Has to be an air leak. Torn intake boot or such. (assuming you've checked and the slides are indeed down, and not a hung up cable housing)

Less than $12, new OEM

No, it's for sure not.

Has to be running. If so, the bulbs could be blown if the regulator is bad, not connected, or not bolted down tight to a clean bare metal.

Probably transmission vent hoses. 1 comes out at the very rear of the engine and T's off to the area by the water pump in the front of the clutch cover. The 3rd side of the T then goes up the steering stem and just sits there open. If the rear one gets pinched, or none of it is routed properly, oil will run out.

Sweet! Congrats on the purchase!!

TORS absolutely will NOT cause issues like that. It is a run or not run system.

A R1 engine is great in a R1. Otherwise, what 97screamer said.

This statement still stands. Raw fuel out the pipe means that side isn't firing. Pull the pipe, dump out fuel, pull plugs and kick for a while, install new plugs.