hoppedupandcutdown

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R4.TR9.TRC0.A0.H0.X1211+.TRS0&_nkw=threebond+1211&_sacat=0

#13 http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

I had a torn o-ring on the tube into the clutch cover do that. Since the gasket was good all the way around the tube, coolant did not get into the trans area, but it did leak onto the top of the motor and through the hole in the middle and off of those studs underneath.

Well I know I learned something new tonight. Cool

pic to make sure you are probing the correct hole

unplug the key switch and connect those 2 wires, should be red/black and black.

1 - drain both fluids 2 - buy a Clymer manual actually that order doesn't really matter

Did you delete the key switch or anything else while it was down and being rebuilt?

http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html Question and answer #15

My bet is that it is not leaking from the stud. It is leaking off of the stud. (Coming from farther up, running down and off the lowest point) -that stud.

What's a set go for on Ebay? I've got a super clean pair I would sell.

YFM700 and YFZ450 and Banshee are the same, so you should be good.

Well the gal that I talked with must have straight up OD'd . She said she would call me back Monday after talking with Don about giving me a break on a camp spot for 11 days, as I'd only be using power and water for 5-6 days. Tomorrow it will be a week, guess I will try to get back with them. Must be nice to care less about income, or customer service.

Hard to beat a calibrated eyeball ! Awesome work Justin

The 6" wheel will make the bike a little wider and the tire a little shorter and fatter, where the 5" wheel will keep the tire a bit taller and your track width closer to stock. I have several 21-7-10 on both 5's and 6's, I need the 5's on some bikes just so they will fit in my toyhauler against other bikes. Both will work, matter of personal choice. I'm not sold on "bumpsteer" being the proper term, although very commonly used, but you will want to make sure your steering stops are up to snuff with a wider offset wheel.

Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)

Some pipe manufacturers recommend flipping it end for end.

You have a needle and seat or float sticking in a carb. No, they should not leak Yes you should turn the gas off when storing inside or transporting. Most people turn it off nightly just in case it might leak.

He actually put it together with only one washer on the pancake bearing, so it will be a f**ked up mess as soon as he starts it.

it slides on this far with nothing in the middle

it would only solve your problem if the pusher is hitting on the end of the shaft or nut and keeping the plate from going in far enough. Your steels and fibers pinch between the inner hub and pressure plate no matter what.

stack your old clutches up next to a pile of your new ones, see if there is a noticeable difference.

I asked if you had the hub off, bet you got 2 thrust plates (fat washers) behind it, instead of one

I tried help a guy just last night with the same problem. He was certain it was the thickness of 1 washer on the pancake bearing holding it out, and went back to the stock pusher/adjuster. I have a plate and hub in my hands and there ain't much room in there if there was a nut and trans shaft bolted in there. But have never had such a problem myself. Did you have the hub off? Is a thick washer behind the basket and 1 behind the hub?