hoppedupandcutdown

How about the tail light element?

If you have no voltage from the Yellow and Black bullet connectors when unplugged from the rest of the bike, and it shows the proper .2 to .3 ohms, and it runs, I'd say your lighting side on the stator is bad edit: but I can't see having two with the same problem

what volts do you have at the yellow and black bullet connectors coming off of the stator with the bike running?

a stock voltage regulator just regulates the voltage, if you have more than 16.3V@8000rpm volts, it ain't working. Edit

so you've put voltage to the bulbs? most popular problem is bad regulator and blown bulbs

I did the math on a RC pac once, I think it was gonna last about 2hrs

21mm, no gasket

I know in the automotive repair world, never rule out the most recently replaced electrical item - always look there first.

I'd bet you broke the inner clutch boss, at least. Easy enough to pull the side cover and look.

^^But I'm on board with checking the electrical too

From 30°C to -20°C is like a 90°F difference. You should go up at least 3 sizes on the mains.

I use a 18v lithium ion Makita battery plugged into an old gutted out charger with LED lights on my Trike Choppa, has lasted very well, and I always have a back-up since it's the same one for my tools. If I were you I'd add a battery and light (maybe a 6" bar) to the Banshee, and leave the factory ones too. Maybe try new lenses for your factory lights. While not the best, I've never thought they were THAT bad.

Yamaha uses these...don't know what happened to your buddies

You'll need a tool to R&R the steering stem bearing retainer nut. The large hex on a flywheel puller will work. It's 30mm or 1 1/8" will fit. Or put together a bolt and 2 nuts, or 1 nut if ya got a welder. Or 1 nut and an old socket...

Also check that the bowls are on the correct carb (BB at red arrow on the left or choke carb) also be sure the choke crossover hose is in place and not cracked. Might do a leakdown test as replacing reeds is a common way to get an air leak with out knowing it.

First make sure the slides are in the correct direction Second, the air screws (not idle) should be out 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated, the new idle screws with the delete kit (circled in red) should be in enough to lift the slide a little from fully bottomed out

^^That Rule of thumb on compression tests is no more than a 10% variation. But try again, both cold. And keep a close eye on it in the future, cause you are under the 10%, but pushing it.

no way to test a CDI, can only change it out for a known working one. Look over the wiring for a broken or bare wire. Check switches for continuity. Almost always something simple, not necessarily a bad part.

did you hold the metal part of the spark plug against a metal part of the engine when you kicked it checking for spark?

how about a hose clamp?

That's odd, I think you put something together wrong.

I told you it was under pressure, cap it off better. It needs to seal.

Leaking from where you capped the nipple or the radiator cap? Hissing and leaking after you shut it off? Hard to follow what you're trying to tell us.

hauls bitches well

no free play in lever?, ball welded, bolts fell out...post pics. We like carnage pics