hoppedupandcutdown

You do good to text him, he's not been on in a couple weeks.

That's an odd problem, keep us posted.

If I was you, I'd pull the dipstick, wipe the end of the hose off and blow back through it to flush all the oil back into the trans. Should actually be able to put your finger over the dipstick hole while blowing and be able to tell that it's all clear.

Even if the trans is pressurized, it shouldn't push out oil. As the vents are above fluid level. Didn't overfill it did you?

Leaking, as in running out the end up by the steering stem?

I don't recommend painting plastic, although I do it (professionally) If you are going to do it yourself, Krylon Fusion spray paint is known to have good results. (well as good as can be expected from a can)

You probably got some oil in the hose while up on it's butt. Then it finally ran out after setting it down and running it. There is usually a low spot in the hose that can trap some oil. Could clean the hoses out, but I don't think I would worry, might just keep an eye on trans fluid level.

I'm guessing tweaker. Very articulate, but still nobody types that much and expects other people to follow.

Do you mean the vent? Is the hose still connected? Is it still tee'd and running up the steering stem? Did you have it standing up on the grab bar washing it?

All fixed and done you'll be lucky to break even. If your time ain't worth anything.

Your new (used) shifter is not Banshee

I'm thinking that is for a YFZ450 I know it is NOT for a Banshee

did you file the carb body flat where the jam nut seats?

It's not on either of those diagrams. I've been telling people for years to cut and isolate the green/yellow wire at the CDI. That being said, I've never owned a Banshee new enough to have that system. I' ve also read that just unplugging it makes it run bad. So since you have one there, and unplugged running like crap, try jumping it, try cutting it and you tell us the exact cure.

Well not really, Castrol makes both a premix oil and a "2 stroke" oil, for transmissions. Both in very similar bottles. Just checking.

HaHa, That would be CASTOR 927, not Castro or Castrol. OK that's good oil

Hardware store and make a leakdown tester. Did you put sealer on the crank key on the right side when you put in the seals?

MTX or TTS?

I know when I ordered my Lonestars they had "+2+1" and "+2+1 long travel", there was a difference.

Also good to always wipe the schmutz out of the inside of an old cap.

Well 60 is better than 0. Remove both spark plugs and the radiator cap and see if you get zero. Also, if it's a new cheap gauge, try it on something else and see if you get more than 60. Double also, looking back at your old threads, you know it's fucked up.

you can just loosen the clamp and twist the tops "in" without taking them off to get to the bowl screws, just be careful and don't loose anything. clean everything first, keep the floor clean and uncluttered in case you do drop something. Work with plenty of light. Use a GOOD phillips screw driver. Do one carb at a time. Don't forget to reinstall the rubber tube between the carbs for the choke, it won't start without it. EDIT- it looks like you already have the airbox off, should be no problem to just pull the carb from the front boot and bring it up into the open there.

out of curiosity,, where'd you get that idea?

I'm guessing your cap wasn't sealing on the new rads neck

At least the one that is leaking. But yes - both that way you can open them to see if your carbs are getting fuel, and close them and not be a fire hazard leaking gas. Of course we've not even gotten to why it won't start. Except maybe old gas and plugged up carbs. Get your Clymers manual on order?