hoppedupandcutdown

Well one things for sure, it isn't leaking from under the motor. Maybe off of the bottom of the motor. The lowest point that there is coolant is the cover for the water pump. It could be leaking from anywhere (hose from clutch cover to back of head for example) and running down through the hole in the middle of the cases to the ground. You'll just have to clean and dry everything and inspect. It could also be the coolant hose coming from the front of the clutch cover, might have pinched/torn in the accident. Was it the right side that needed a tie rod?

I am friends with an old classmate on Facebook. She does and always has, typed in all caps. She does not do it to yell or mean anything by it. She just does. Myself and all her other friends simply understand and tolerate it. Much like the fact that Ryan can not and will not use the proper form of "brake" when referring to the stopping system of a motorized vehicle. It is OK, we understand and will continue to tolerate it.

I've heard those magnetic drain plugs can cause just that sort of damage. Suck the steel right outta yer motor.

Back to the original question... Do the pick up wires matter? I ask because I installed an aftermarket one on a buddies Banshee and the wires were different colors. We made an educated guess and it ran. Lucky or doesn't matter? We did have a 50/50 chance.

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JasonB, you make it?

spot #2 on the road on the way to the LSPS store

We are here.

Sure it's not 18? (Setting on meter)

I'd try again, maybe clean the contact area for testing... that's close to spec

Stator resistance: Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)

HaHa, yeah. I provide cellular devices and coverage for the whole fam damily and they never take pics of ME!!

Well, hell yeah!

Holy Crap! You did catch the "Oklahoma, this weekend" part, right?

Where you coming from?

It's Oklahoma's Spring Break this week and is usually busy, but should still be spots left. Could call and ask, State Park and Little Sahara powersports.

Yes, those are two completely separate unrelated systems.

Glad you got it going...but, 1. If one slide was in backwards they both were in backwards unless the locating pin fell out of the carb body. 2. If the TORS was the problem it would not fire on ether either. That system kills the spark completely.

That's what he did on Dana's motor too. He went back to get the chart (no A/F) by the time time he got back to camp his boy melted it down. Anybody else remember this? Might have just been on FB

Was it dyno'd at Stewarts? He leaned out another guy we know til it melted.

The wheels are aluminum and would be anodized gold that year. I'm just positive all the years had the same shocks, just different spring colors

Pull the upper seal, clean out the grease, use a 1.25" or 32mm headed bolt (or a flywheel remover with the large hex body) to remove the inverted nut. The bearing should just slide up and out. Cover the VIN too, for blasting

WooHoo! 5 more days til the Dunes!