hoppedupandcutdown

I went ahead and Googled "Elevation lower Michigan" and came up with a lowest point of 571ft and a highest of 1705ft. So right there is 1 main jet size difference depending on where you are located. Did it run good where you bought it, and poorly when you got it home?

Hard to say. If you do have stock pipes w/pods -odd combo. What is your elevation and ambient temp? Post pics so we can help determine what you are working with.

Yes, common knowledge... those carbs hate water.

might have gotten the screws in a little crooked and they are dragging on the side of the ramp. It would only stick until maybe 1/4 throttle, if that much. (until the screws clear the slide)

Check the flywheel key. Maybe even reeds.

Got to remove the pressure plate and ball and rod to allow the actuator to come up and out.

The sweet spot is when it idles on it own and there is a bit of slack in the throttle cable when all of the cable housing ends are seated properly.

The clip is to hold the cap from un-screwing, not just the TORS, irrelevant. The screw in the circle would be your idle screw. Get some. (or do just mean a different head?) Turn them in if you have them

Got these? (red circle)

An ohm meter probe in each end, should read 5K ohms

The green/yellow should NOT touch anything. Although if it is connected to black it should be limiting Rev at all times. Still, isolate it. Trim your spark plug wires back a 1/4" and ohm your caps before reinstalling.

So you have held a spark plug to ground and verified no spark? (Had to ask) So it's never fired since bought?

If it has had a new stator or pick-up, (not OEM) Check that the wires/pins are in the correct spots in the connectors.

I'm going to guess that your slide are in backwards and you have TORS delete idle screws holding them up. Post pictures. We could help so much easier.

It funny, their page doesn't say anything like that http://www.prodesignracing.com/main.htm But, I also believe faster moving coolant is counter productive. It needs to stay in the radiator to cool. That's why thermostats' job is two-fold. Another well argued topic. And Banshee ain't got one anyway.

Where did you read that?

Then check that the choke hose is in place and tight (red oval) And that the proper bowl is on the choke side carb ("BB" RED ARROW)

pull the filters and see if both slides raise when you push the throttle. See if the slides are in correctly

I'll tell ya this, years ago I set a Banshee for my kids. Same set-up as mine... same pipes, same air cleaner, same jets, same sprockets, same paddle tires, EVERYTHING. It literally burned twice as much fuel as mine did. Never could figure it out. We would top off every time at camp on our way out to the dunes, and get back and mine would take a splash compared to theirs. For a while I attributed it to they where riding harder than me, but at the time they were young and I was younger, so I don't think that was actually the case. To this day, a mystery.

Does it have 1 (not 0, not 2) thrust washers between basket and hub? Sometimes the oil will stick them on and it's hard to tell. A Clymers manual would be invaluable for you, I'm certain that alone would help you figure this out. That being said, be careful taking it somewhere, "motorcycle mechanics" are NOT necessarily Banshee mechanics

^^That^^ Are your 6 pressure plate bolts completely tight?

If that is just the billet block off plate, you still might have the electrical causing grief. Do you have a green/yellow wire coming off the CDI?

Are you holding the actuator over with you finger while adjusting at the plate? It's not meant to move that much (30degrees)

It could be possible a previous owner installed things incorrectly, like ball first then rod. You adding a ball would be ball - rod- ball. I.E., 1rod, 2balls. Best to remove and inspect.