hoppedupandcutdown

try cleaning the air filter

By your pic, I'm sure it is. I've used it on my '95 and an '01 for sure. As long as it isn't the newer grey or dark silver, it'll match. The grey frames, there is a steel wheel color that matches, (can't recall brand name right now)

I use Krylon 1403

If you think it's coming off those nuts, it's probably gas leaking and running thru the drain hole in the cases, evaporating and leaving a bit of oil and dripping off of that nut.

Just follow their order instructions and they will get back with you during business hours tomorrow and you will have your parts in a few days. (depending on where you are) Top notch people.

I hope you have a buddy in the body shop biz... I don't mean just like bondo. Duramix 4040 s my recommendation, of course it also uses a special gun and primer.

Their are 2 hoses up to the steering stem that are just vents. One comes from the coolant jug for overflow of coolant. Another is a vent for the transmission oil, it should T under the tank and one end go to the front of the clutch cover and the other the the very rear under the motor mount. If the rear one is pinched or clogged, oil will be pushed out the other one when the trans is pressurized, even from when the oil gets hot and expands, it could siphon out.

Oh, and I am a HUGE proponent for lining up the arrows as per the manual. Perhaps that explains why some people swear it's just not possible.

Good info. I've never liked Motion Pro, for a while we (my family of 5 quads) were going thru a cable every weekend out... and buying MP cables from the store at the dunes. Switched to Yamaha and they last a lot longer. Now I keep new OEM cables in the trailer, for every different quad we have and rarely ever need one.

Another tank is easiest/best. Or a good 2part epoxy instead of glue. Better yet a urethane based filler like body shops use on plastics, but a tube of that is WAY more expensive than a tank.

Stock front shock is 14.5" eye to eye. +2 arms use stock length shocks. +2 LONG TRAVEL use longer shocks, my Lonestar DC pros use 17.75" shocks according to their website

Bowls. Those are bowls. Nothing to do with TORS.

What dimple, on what cap, and why would you try to put in on at an angle?

Cap? Dimple? Angle? What?

Make sure the threads on both sides are clean, clean, clean and start them easy and square.

His link is in the sponsor list

Did you have the cylinders off? Replace the plugs in the very bottom?

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18088-holyman-tech-kick-starter-no-rattle-mod/

Went out to double check, they sent 10mm with mine. If I recall correctly, they were to long and I had to cut them down to length though.

Nope, not you. I didn't read that far into your post. Damn Beer

13"

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/151859-34mm-pwks-on-stock-cylinders/ Something I remember seeing that might help you

If the electrical doesn't fix it, check the expansion chambers for nesting material. It could run fine until there is enough exhaust pressure to lift it and plug the stinger, then drop when the throttle is let off. I've seen it with nuts. (The tree kind, not the mate to a bolt kind)

Swap a known good CDI. They can do some crazy stuff when going bad.