hoppedupandcutdown

Those o-rings can leak, but it's the inside of that piece that needs to shine, and the tip of the needle that goes in to it needs to be perfect (no indented ring)

Rebuild kits come with stock size jets- waste of money. Looking over your pics you need 27.5 pilot 300main to start.

Check needle valve. The rubber tip, for a groove to be exact. It's a wearable item and causes the fuel to NOT shut off no matter where the float level is set.

Yes , water pump seals. Might as well get a new water tube 0-ring too. and grease that prior to install to reduce the risk of tearing it when sliding the cover on. (grease also helps to seal)

Take a bulb out and test it on your car battery. If indeed they are good, there is a red wire in the switch that I have seen disconnect itself from its solder joint. I they are blown, test the voltage at the headlight socket with a multimeter set to AC. Also look to be sure the regulator is bolted down tight to clean bare metal.

I'm going the weekend before, Easter and Sand Outlawz, all rolled into one.

Not sold separately on an OE coil.

No, it's not. It's an air screw...out is more air, so counter clockwise is leaner.

IIRC they don't do the exchange or modify used heads anymore. They now offer brand new castings that look stock and accept interchangeable domes.

What's the numbers on top of the pistons?

Pull the wrist pin out of the one (half way) stick it in the other, to line that up exactly,.Take new pic. I wanna see a broken pin too. (literally never have)

Very large screws or knobs on the very top of the TORS boxes (remove the seat) adjust the idle. Turn both evenly clockwise to raise RPMs

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/173744-jja-ftw/ My stock vs JJ&A weight comparison.

According to the part numbers, 1989 up will work.

Also check the pins in all connectors, they bend and don't make contact. One more thing, super easy to push a spade on the coil and miss metal to metal, (with factory insulation on the terminal) Also common to have the strands of wire worn to nothing next to a terminal. Also check that your new stator wire colors match the pins of the old harness. Seen 'em be put together wrong.

(there is no key switch, so the red/black was tied directly into ground as it should be). 2 things I'm unclear on from your post, but here... To run, the Red/Black has to connected to the Black coming from the CDI and the White/Black cannot be connected to black. Has to be that black wire, not just "ground" It's fine if the black wire shares chassis ground though.

Your steering hoop is probably bent back. Does the fuel tank come out easily? That's the simple test.

I tried those. They flickered 12 times and fried.

The good news is PhotoBucket got a new CEO that decided charging a stupid yearly fee to host pics was a bad idea. So all the pics in the bottom end walk thru are back up. Excellent thread, can't tell you how many times I've referenced it.

The nipple by the water pump is a transmission vent. un-needed, just went to the T and to atmosphere.

Are you on Facebook? There's a guy on BHQFB asking for some used Flexx bars.

Check that the pistons aren't in backwards while the pipes are off. Stock carbs, slides in the correct way? But my money is on a critter home in the pipes.

Something build a nest in your exhaust pipes?

Check exhaust springs for reverberation.

Not at all good on a seal,, IMO. Seals only seal when installed straight and true. Stabbing at it with a flat-tip seems the opposite of that. Replace seal with new AND remove shaft to inspect, polish or replace.