hoppedupandcutdown

double check the choke tube is still connected between carbs.

It never hurts to replace the radiator cap, they have 2 seals and the spring is what holds the pressure. They do get old and fatigued. a very over-looked serviceable part. Since now no-one in the states has one less than 6 years old. (unless already been replaced)

Heck, you're probably done already but, Always check the new part against the old before trying to put it in. Length, bushing length and diameter etc.,and especially the threads on the ball joint. Have ratchet strap or come-along to bring the chassis back to the suspension to line up the holes.

Fresh fuel?

http://www.dwtracing.com/products/sidebyside/alumilite/utv%20ultimate Or call and see about regular light wheels, years ago 12's were getting popular-i think it was Cascade selling 12" kits but didn't see them on there site either

Placed my order this morning, great guy to deal with. Thanks Bill

LA Sleeve is the only one i've ever heard of. I figured someone on here might have one used cylinder way cheaper than a sleeve. What did you figure out on your piston and rings?

--Heavy Duty replacement sleeve by LA Sleeve . Will accept bores up to 69.5mm. LA Sleeve part#YA-5023H,-- If you really want to sleeve it, your machine shop will have to bore for the sleeve and then bore the sleeve for your pistons. i would think a good used cylinder would be the cheaper way to go. here's a link to wiseco, I don't know what you got = http://www.wiseco.com/ProductSearch.aspx

BANSHEE CYLINDERS BANSHEE HEAD REPAIR SLEEVE BY LA SLEEVE First we need to get our terms correct...

Double check your numbers. The 513mo6475 IS 64.75, that's the part number and size. So those are the correct rings. wiseco does not offer a 65.75. I believe you are calling the cylinders - heads. The cylinders can be bored out many over sizes safely. Those pistons are 3 sizes overbore and will take out a pretty fair sized scratch. I highly recommend you send your pistons and cylinders to a sight sponser to have bored,they call tell you if your gouge is repairable, or you need to find a used cylinder or install a sleeve -

rule #1 ALWAYS open and inspect thoroughly while the driver is standing there. Don't let them be in a big hurry to leave. Usually if you sign for it and then find out it's damaged you are S.O.L. I have alot of auto body parts shipped to my shop and FRAGILE means "step here" I can't tell you how many hood I've gotten with boot prints in them.

I was wondering about those who powder frames, if you can still read the VIN. Could have also been erased by an overly aggresive sand blaster before powdercoat. RE-stamp and be done with it.

Exactly -you can google cheetah tire inflator,I couldn't get a pic to load, anyway they cost over 300bucks. I welded a pipe nipple on my air bubble, put on valve, 30bucks and done.

I have had that problem,especially with new sand tires. first always have the valve core out for maximum air. With a DRY tire and wheel try to push the bead on as far and tight as possible on the tapered side of the wheel.(the side you don't mount on) with your chuck on the valve stem, your knee in the middle on the wheel, and with both hands,and maybe even a buddiies, pull the tire very gently over to the other side. When your tired of "that was close but the back popped off" try it with a blow gun or two at the bead,( not one of those sissy safety low pressure blow guns) the more air in the better. If all fails or your compressor doesn't have that much reserve, then a LITTLE bit starting fluid or brakeleen and throw a match. (Probably should not be telling people to do that-legally) Or find a tire shop with a Cheetah (I made one out of an old air bubble-cuz dam they're expensive)

LOCTITE 609

I run Skat-Trak Extremes 20-10-10 10 paddle on all 3 of my YFZ450s even the stock one, and both my banshee's. 20-10-10 8 paddles for the Blaster and Raptor 250. we only ride Waynoka, always dry loose soft sand. Never had a problem bogging any of them. And wheelie them all,all day long. And I don't line them up with each other. (your opinion may vary)

Back in the late 50's - early 60's drag cars were built that way to help with weight transfer off the line,for increased traction,don't think it really worked... Goggle "gasser" and broaden your vehiclular knowledge base, or do like folks did pre-internet, ask your grandpa... LOL

One more for you guys that like a nice rear end

My last hotrod

I assumed that they only worked properly when constructed to resemble the "reservoir tip"

The choke on a Banshee ADDS fuel, so when it's out it's making up for an air leak. When it revs up on it's own -that lean- to much air...you have an air leak. Keep running it and you will have a hole in a piston.

Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum. In a spray can, will match exactly for touch-ups.

i'm no expert, and don't know your elevation,maybe someone else will chime in here,but I think you might be dumping to much fuel, search jetting on here.

Other than double checking the sprocket counts and jetting, air box lid or not, etc., I wouldn't believe there would be a noticable difference from pipe brands, I notice mine looses a ton of bottom end when the pipes need packed.