hoppedupandcutdown

X2 and K@N's website will tell you exactly how much oil for what filter.

I see no notification of any PM from you.

you don't HAVE to change jetting or do a plug chop from just removing a boost bottle.

All hype,worst plug ever made, didn't know you could even still buy them

X2

What are you using for a battery?

Thanks for the input, it would be better to do the DC conversion and run a smaller battery then, correct?

Are you wanting a drag banshee, or what? I'm in Junction and got an old Banshee that needs some work that I should sell.Can't decide.

•Each ten-inch segment is 38 watts with a 3.3 amp draw at 12 volts. Rigid Industries E-Series LED Light Bar 10" Spot/Flood How long would this run with no charging system off of only a RC car battery? Or, battery recommendations, to get a couple hours between charges.

That leads me to my next question, most longer hose kits are two hoses to the master cyl. with a longer banjo bolt. Any problems with that breaking off? As I seem to roll my bike down a dune at least every other trip.

Sure should of had the jetting dailed in before break-in, and sounds like pilots, but, check you choke cross-over hose, I only always chime in with this because I thought for sure mine was connected once,and just didn't look close enough.

triple for chrome is more for parts that need restored, thet use the coppper to fill in rust pits and deep scratches, that can't be polished out otherwise. Overboard for any banshee part, if it's that bad of shape just get another one. This is all nickel chrome plated, and looks perfect. But, yes talk to your chromer. they should have explained the options to you first anyway. This is all nickel chrome plated, and looks perfect.

You don't want hard chrome, that's for hydraulic cylinder rods you don't want nickel, that's for fancy old wood stoves you DO want nickel-chrome also called decorative chrome, a layer of nickel for shine and then a layer of chrome for protection,the nickel also aids adhesion of the chrome. Triple chrome is best, being copper-nickel-chrome,also known as show chrome. But much more expensive.

I've ordered LSR +2+1 arms, will I need longer brake hoses?

And I've noticed a few more regularly used on this very site.

^^^I agree^^^ maybe try naval jelly to remove the rust. But they look bad enough to need glass bead blasted and a new coating to prevent rust.

All of the spray-on chrome systems that I looked into putting into my shop were basically a waterborne paint applied over automotive epoxy primer and topcoated with automotive clear. The colors came from tinting the clear.

Now... when I mentioned liking shiney shit to look good you called me a girl, and now you're in need of a fast chromer! LOL

I used Industrial Chrome in Topeka for my entire suspension under my Falcon, but their 2 weeks turned into 8 weeks. I've come to realize that's one thing to not expect a quick turn-around. But they did a fine job, and i thought very reasonably priced.

Oh, I will be at the BHQ ride ! Haven't decided where to camp yet. Bringing my family and several others, who mostly ride 4 strokes...LOL

Can anyone confirm this^? Before I go down this weekend to try to get a spot in the State Park.

http://www.toomey.com/phocadownload/install/tr6-kit-installation-instructions.pdf Here's the link to Toomey's T6 install, alot of good info there.

21mm without the gasket.

By rights that should have been fine...But I'm old enough to think that "synthetic" oil is some kind of voodoo. After much hesitation, I've changed to Motul in my fuel and Klotz in my trans, I even had my kid change every single drop of fluids to Royal Purple in my OLD Toyota truck in his auto shop class. I'm happy with the changes in my 2 stroke, not impressed with the RP, was supposed to pick up mileage in the truck, I think the oils cost me over $250, I'll never recoup that in MPG's. Maybe the key is to only use it for what it is labeled for.

"Type F ATF is a common substitute - I'd never run it." What I meant to say was - I have never run it, but know plenty that do.