hoppedupandcutdown

http://s1162.beta.photobucket.com/user/dheindel/library/forestriver 20' hauled my VW manx style buggy and 2 full size quads, or 4 quads, or most cars. A/C w/heat strip and furnace,microwave,sink,flex-steel sofa sleeper, fold-up twin bed,room w/ porta potty, etc. built this myself,any questions ask $7500.00 785-238-4252 Dennis

Is the small black crossover hose for the choke installed?

When the fuel is on and the bike is not running, does fuel run out the overflow tubes? How long did it sit apart? floats and needle valve could be varnished and stuck open. Only changes was the frame?

Are you sure your air bubble isn't water in the tank? Shake the bike,drain some from "reserve" into a clear glass container and let sit to see if it seperates. If so you'll have to pull the tank to drain it comepletely. We all know how shitty it is when your bike don't run, but take a pill man, we are trying to help, we can only go from what you tell us.

For the record, from this thread I think your problem is electrical, from your other thread i think your problem is fuel, but your air bubble theory makes no sense at all.

X2 on the floats and needles. The needles and seat get crap built up on them and won't open to let fuel in the bowl.

Are the slides and bowls on the proper carbs?

Don't block it , it is the air vent.

I'd still go with something electrical breaking down when hot. Got a buddy with a Banshee to swap parts with? One at a time of course.

Mine did about the same thing at the dunes a while back, new spark plugs cured it. I think they only started to crap out when really hot.

My old OEM swingarm has HK2220 bearings http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/NEEDEL_ROLLER/Kit12307 Lonestar says theirs are specific, should stillhave the factory 22mm I.D. http://www.lsracing.com/swing-arm-rebuild-hardware-needle-bearing-lonestar-racing-swing-arms.53.86.atv-utv-racing

i'm not moving mine, but i will blow the hose out and empty the bottle before my next outting and see how it goes.

I found this - http://kuoi.com/~john/tips.html ,I had the same problem this past weekend at the dunes.When I top a dune I sit downhill waiting on the wife., my bike was not hot but dribbled out the overflow. The reservoir was half full and the radiator was full. I didn't understand how it would puke out the overflow hose when the bottle was not full. I also have T5's and a Coolhead. I think the tank and hose placement is a bad design explained by this attachment. I'm also just sure it is a Recirculating system since the hose from the radiator is on the bottom and the drain hose comes off the top and is made to drip on the right pipe so you can smell it. but I have read to the contrary.

Yes, they are 10x1.25 and that uses a "S" drill, or an 11/32 it's only .00425" smaller. Just did some last weekend, of course they are left and right hand thread.

Also, when buying premium from the pump for your Banshee, always put 2 or 3 gallons in your car or truck first, then your can, or your gonna get a couple gallons of cheap gas from the last guys purchase. Those gas pumps and hoses hold alot of fuel from where the thing switches fuel grades when you push the "91" button.

Do you run those 2 packs in series for 14.4v ?

Wider, and a thread file is a great idea, just show more patience with it than you did removing it in the first place.

I asked Rigid Industries tech line and they replied 26amps, but downloading their catalog -it's watts. all the good it does to ask the people who sell it... I guess my question is can I hook that light up to the power and ground wire feeding my stock lights, (without my stock lights)

So why would I need a battery and the floating ground? That light only needs 26 amps.

I was thinking on splicing in some copper tubing with some hose clamps. No, really, I was wanting opinions on what's prefered, 2 hoses up to the master cyl or, 3 with a tee? Also my new +2+1 Lone star arms came with 13.5" tie rods, that gives me a minimum toe-in of 2.5 inches. Anybody know how long their tie rods are with +2 arms? stock is 11"

10x1.25mm and really, I've popped countless ball joints and tie rods, NEVER had to hit the threads, nuts or not.

Next time hit the spindle right where the tapered part goes thru - that shocks it loose with NO damage. Never hit the ball joint or threads or arm etc.

I had that happen on a gas truck, didn't make any noise at all. Just quit charging,opened the hood and fire.

New needle and seat -stock carb, probably have to buy a carb kit. Mine has done that.