dozer

we skipped. the radial tire car i talked with you about last year spent too long in chassis prison so it never came out this year.. my friend scott went and broke the trans early. it just seemed like one of the events you would attend. im sure we will meet up somewhere one of these days so i can buy you a beer.

sty, did you make it to the street car super nationals in las vegas?

i thought R parts were getting easier to get now that you can find ESR cases, billet trans and billet shift forks.

Stock ignitions work great. I would just swap to all stock stuff.

never seen that either. another weird one http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-250-350-400-rd-lc-rdlc-tz-banshee-complete-new-ignition-racing/171516775529?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D72e0fe631f0d4675b928a1cc01c15c28%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D20131017132637%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281368780027

are you completely retarded or just 99.9%?

the tranny wasnt a 2-5 as listed either. Its a 2-4 m5-6. Not a "big" deal but kinda frustrating.

no

whats the arm length and your weight.

The durations are gona depend on base gasket thickness, if the cylinders have been decked, etc. Alot more tk it than just the distance from the deck.

very nice lookin eric. like others have asked, any testing done with these? numbers or sheets we can see. im interested but not wanting to make a 850 dollar jump for no reason.

ill tell you guys this much, when you first let go of the lever on a well tuned clutch your gona be like WTF! it wont have that sudden yank. it will probably feel slower even though its actually faster. im not good with a clutch yet but i got to ride a well sorted 10mm and that was pure fun.

any carb you choose, set idle, needle, pj race.

both great guys to deal with.

camatv, holeshot kansas next weekend?

Thats a nice swingarm. I would have bought it if it wAs +14.

Hhmmm zac said it was. Probably a 2-4 manual 5th. Ill call cam tomorrow.

Yes

2-5 neutral down. Its hard to get it to shift from 4-5. The 2-3 and 3-4 shift is smooth but 4-5 is 50/50. Itll shift at half throttle but you have to pull the lever pretty hard. Plenty of weight on lockup, plenty of tire and gear too.

I would swap to 20:1 like the others said. Also the smaller carb( most run 39) will cause the motor to pull more fuel through the jet, there fore needing a smaller jet than a larger carb would.

If they are not damaged and fit the bore good re use them.

id like to say thanks to jj&a racing. crashed a bike at little sahara and screwed up one of their axles/hubs. sent it in and today i got it back. they replaced the broken hub, put all new bolts in it, cleaned everything really good and sent it back with factory bolts for the sprocket which it didnt come with when i bought it. they were extremely easy to work with and replaced the parts no questions asked. think ill stick to jj&a for all my axles.

surely not. But if so id like to hear about how a bike thats been deep 3's is setup wrong.

Aluminum is a better choice than ti in non critical areas. Its cheaper and weighs less.

Its true, i read it on the internet