turbowrenchhead

I'm looking for an affordable specialist to do the job that takes paypal. Any input?

I advertised that I was looking for a stock carb due to the fact that the cap threads were bad on mine and the cap would not tighten. Wisconsinz contacted me and said he had one for $25. I sent him $25 via paypal and I got the carb. The threads on his carb were even worse then mine. You could visually see that they were bad. I tried pming and emailing him with no response. Not untill I opened a case on paypal then I got a response. He agreed to refund me the $. I sent it back costing me $5.95. Two weeks later I didn't get a refund or no response via pm email or paypal reminder. Not till after I threatened to post this on the board then I got back $18.95. The seller should refund the full price plus return shipping. This guy thinks he's better then everyone else. SO BUYER BEWARE OF WISCONSINZ!!!!

I'm wondering if a blaster kicker will fit a banshee. The blaster has a nice flat surface to kick against. I will have to take my blaster on off and see if it does.

I went out and took a look at the engine and realized that it had to be listed somewhere else. Thanks for finding it.

The drive shaft the one that that front sprocket bolts too. The opposite end the last ring land it was all chipped away and had missing hardware. I got a replacement and ordered a new washer and c clip. I got it and it fits the next ring land in. Not the outer. Is it suppose to be a half clip? Take a look at the fiche. http://www.donandroys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=957396&category=ATVs&make=YAMAHA&year=1987&fveh=26185

I did the yfz 450 shocks on my 02 blaster. It was the best suspension mod that I did for ride quality. There are three adjustments that you can make as well. I read up on how to dial them in and it worked great. I been beating the sh*t out of my quad and they hold up great.

I have been watching and looking for a LH J arm. PM me if you have something for me.

I was planning on getting the carb sync tool from fast. I have already watched the syncing vids. I already have a tach on my blaster and planned on installing one on the banshee, great for tuning and making sure your not over revving it. My blaster tops out at 7500 rpm. Ive got the factory manual already. I get oem parts at wholesale so I will be ordering all new oem gaskets. I haven't decided who to send the crank to yet. My local machinist thinks its a waste of time and money so he won't be doing the work on the crank. I've got the rebuild kits and tors eliminators, waiting on a good stock carb body. Original one the threads were bad.

Nope, +4 advance. I have a 35 pwk with a 168 main jet. My friends with 170 psi runs a 34 pj with a 182 main

My blaster runs 160 psi and I run 93 in it. I can lay on it all day no problems. Was out in the boonies and they only had 87 but no elthonol. It ran fine on that. I ran it just as hard. My buddies run 170 psi and had the same results. As long as your jetting on the brink of rich, your good.

Well from what I have been researching and reading. I have decided that I will go with a NOSS head design. I can change domes to my preference easily and I dont have to change the head studs if I chose not too. I can get factory parts at wholesale do factory studs are easy for me to acquire. When I posted this I was aiming to get this ready for guys weekend trip. Thats just not happening now. So its a long term project. As I sell quad parts on ebay I will buy something for my 87. I also had a customer take there car without paying the bill and set me back considerably. That didn't help is trying to get it ready quickly. If I would of had the funds I could of pulled it off. I'm going to take this build slow. I'm porting and polishing my cylinders when I have free time. I am aiming for 60 HP.

Got one lined up for $25

Sorry but I dont have unlimited funds. If I can do it I will. I'm at 1000 ft in wisconsin.

I'm an auto tech of 19 years. I have done several port and polishes on cars. This is my first port on a 2 stroke. After all the reading and pics on the internet I didn't think it would be that hard. I already have all the carbide bits to do it. This pic is the rough cut. I have to go back through and polish it yet with a dremel. Thanks for the input on the jets. I'm kinda shocked that you still use the stock needle on the middle position. I thought for sure you would have to go a few sizes rich to match it up. I had to go through 4 needles on my blaster before I found the sweet spot. Thanks again on the input!

This is my first banshee. I learned how to jet on my blaster. However I would like a little input on what range of jet sizes I should start with. This is my plan for the mods. Home port stage 3 port job with boyseen ports. ( in progress). Noss head with either 20 or 21 cc domes. I'm shooting for the most compression I can run on 93 octane. Either a +4 or +6 timing mod. FMF pipes and muffs. 65mm cast pistons. I've had bad luck with forged and cold seizers, no I'm gun shy on forged. Stock carbs with tors eliminated. CFM airbox with K&N's. 20" tires. By what I have been reading a 225 main jet might be close. However I have no idea what size needle should be run. Or pilot for that fact. Thanks in advance for the input.

The cap wont tighten down on my original one. I bought one off the board here and its the same sh*t. So I"m back to square one. Still in need of a good stock LH carb. All I need is the shell. I have all the internals and a rebuild kit.

Bump! No one has one?

So what would this put me at for compression? Are these milled .030 inches then?

I'm looking for either a stocker thats milled .030 or a aftermarket with 20cc domes. I'm aiming for 170 psi with exhaust blocked. Setting up for pump gas and trail riding

I need a good usable shaft. Mines busted at the end where the clip goes.

My bad. I didnt notice the "wanted" section. I'm still learning about the forum. I need the LH side carb with the choke.

I need much more but for now I need a stock carb body. The threads are bad on one of mine. I also need a transmission gear drive shaft. The one with the front sprocket attaches to. I also need a set of head lights and the wiring for them.

Im an auto mechanic and I have done several port jobs on car heads. I have all the tools and I 'm going to do my own port job using racelogic.com templates.

So I have wanted one since I was 15. I finally come across one that I could afford. I thought I was buying a 92 but it turns out its an 1987. So Its kinda cool to have the first model year. I finally had some time to look at it. The LH side smoked more. I did a compression check and I have 60 psi on the LH side and 100 on the RH. I pulled it all apart and the LH piston ring was busted up and marked up the head and piston. Also the end of the secondary gear shaft is busted on the end and missing the clip. So I need a new shaft. The cylinder bore is at 64.7. So I'm going to pop some 65mm's in it. I like the numara pistons. They have a dome, ceramic coating and they are cast. I know cast are not as strong as forged but cast are less prone to cold seizing. Which I have had happen on 2 cycles in cold weather. My friends blaster is running a numara and its working great. I looked on ebay and there was a 3.57mm milled head and 4mm milled heads. I would imagine that both of those are way to high of compression for pump gas. I gather that one shouldn't mill it more then .030 or .75mm. The one that was milled 3.57mm said that it would put the compression at 170-180psi. I bet that this is with the exhaust blocked off. Is 170 blocked off close to 125 unblocked exhaust?. I would like to put the compression as high as I can on pump gas. If I run a flat top piston does it free up enough cc's to run a 3.5 milled head? I read that if you plan on modding the engine then its wise to have your crank trued and welded. Who would be the closest vender to complete this? I'm not sure if there is anyone in the area that can. I read that site venders will do it for $65. My upper case is busted out from the chain busting. If I clean it up and slap a case saver on it would that suffice? Does it effect case integrity if that material is missing? I'm going to do a stage 3 port job. Shot for a 165psi blocked exhaust compression. Full FMF exhaust and jet it accordingly. Billet water pump gear and upgraded bearing. I will get the flywheel lightened. I'm guessing that the mains should be somewhere around 325-375 range on stock carbs. I have no idea where I should start the pilots yet. But I have a long time for research. I don't plan on running the banshee this summer. It needs way to much work and $$ that I don't have laying around. What else should I look for?