turbowrenchhead

I went to attach the clutch cover and there are two screws that are not holding. I don't want to have to replace the case. What do you guys do in this scenario? I was thinking about going to ACE and finding something a bit bigger and tapping it out to that size.

I still need to be 48 wide due to hauling issues.

I picked up a kit at the local dealer for $13, works fine.

I took some measurements. The stock axle is 37" from end to end. 34" from outside hub to hub mounting surfaces. The stock rims have a 5 1/2 outside offset from mounting surface to outside of rim bead. That puts me at 45" width. I will need a 40" axle with stock rims or I get +6/-3 offset rims with 1" oversize width tire (thinking 22x10x9 on a 9x9 stock rim). That would put me at 48". I would rather get the longer axle. I like the durability of the stock rims and they are cheaper.

I'm looking for a single carb for the 2-1 intake. Text me or email me at turbowrenchhead@yahoo.com with what you got.

I'm looking for overall axle length in inches.

I have a nice pair of rear stock rims. I would like to use them but I want to have the rim to rim width come out at 48" wide to match the front width. In my state you can't be wider then 48" which is bullsh*t because they are letting ORV's on the trails and those things hog up the trail. I hope to never met one on a tight corner when I'm drifting.

Yeah, I took those gears off and hit them with the wire wheel. Why are the maier plastics a "fail"?

Thats the plan. I want a red/black color scheme. The black maier raptor style plastics look real nice on a banshee.

Thanks for the input guys.

Got the motor in last night and both the expansion pipes are touching the head. I tried to manipulate the hangers to get them to clear but they don't. Anyone have an idea what I should do? Just leave them like that or perhaps a piece of material placed between the two metals?

Got the motor in last night. Still need the carb. Got a lead on a 34 Keihin PJ carb for $50

Should I run the stock torque spec or something different for a noss head?

I bought the one with the mounting tabs so I can run some kind of skid on it. I seen lots of boulders and such on you tube vids or the hatfield mccoys trails. I want to be prepared.

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http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t460/turbowrenchhead/engine_zpsbe47dbca.jpg Just got the rest of the gaskets and seals that I need. Waiting on the clutch backing plate and it will go in the bike.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271039049473?item=271039049473&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

I'm replacing the cushions in my basket and replacing the basket. I can't find a machinist that will countersink 4 holes for the 5/16 bolts. I have a few carbide bits but none of them will touch it. Does anyone have a plate they would like to get rid of?

I'm replacing the cushions in my basket and replacing the basket. I can't find a machinist that will countersink 4 holes for the 5/16 bolts. I have a few carbide bits but none of them will touch it. Does anyone have a plate they would like to get rid of?

I have ran an RK non o ring chain on my blaster for a couple of seasons and happy with its performance.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of choices out there. I would like just the lines that run along the a arms. No need to replace them up to the master.

Looking for a good deal on a set for my +3 full flight arms.

Ok thanks.

Plastics and seat are just sitting on it for now. I'm thinking about running 22x11x10 or 9's in the rear and 21x7x10's in the front.