turbowrenchhead

Failing cdi, coil or low compression can cause hard starting issues

So far the only aftermarket ones I found are Pivot, All Balls and Boss. They are all cheaper then oem.

I installed oem bearings 2.5 years ago and 500-600 hard miles are on them now. There is a bit of play in them now and they'll need to be changed for next season. Whats a better aftermarket choice?

Spend a little more and send it to a known builder to do the job. I second the wiseco pro lites. Good pistons for a little more $. There is a lot more power to be had with some porting on your stock cylinders too. This would be a great time to explore this since you have to send them out anyway.

What's the point of having larger front pipes when you have to run them into smaller diameter muffs?

I don't like running it in the winter. I'll wait for warm weather and riding in shorts. You'll have to wait for next year buddy.

I'm running stock carbs on a 70hp motor. Bigger carbs = less mpg/kpg. Keep your stockers and spend the $ on porting and custom domes.

Try a set of Vitto's super stock pistons for gains. They have a cut out in the piston thar simulates a higher exhaust port timing. Wisecos won't get you any noticeable gains in hp.

Not when they have a DB tester. 98 is the limit.

There are no other pipes that have legal muffs. The DNR are pricks in WI. Delt with them on several occasions. My pipes have saved me from getting a ticket.

News to me.

I was told why it's accurate. I care not to go into to detail just so I can be verbally bashed.

Always with something negative to say.

I'm not the "authority" on it. Windy is. Ask him why Jay's dyno is accurate.

Over the summer I took a poll on the best builders out there. I got a lot of feedback on that. FAST was the only builder that no one had anything bad to say about. I spent several hours calling and talking to the mainstream builders around the country as well. However Kevin was short on time and wanted to sell me a +4 serval. That was not going to get me decent gas mileage for trail riding. I also called Jay at IPS. He had more input then anyone else on a build and told me about some new things that he come up with for a banshee build. Since I had my bike dynoed by Jay the previous year I knew him and was impressed with his attitude, knowledge and willingness to work with you in the shop. Plus he has an accurate dyno. He's just a two hour drive from me. So I sent him my assembled bottom end, good cases and virgin cylinders. He worked up a +4 mill with a stock 64mm bore. Ended up with 373cc's. After some trial and tribulation with the domes and jetting. We ended up with 69HP on a unloaded run and 73HP with a 30% loaded run. This is with FMF Gold series and Q series legal spark arrestor DB rated muffs. Just have to wait till next riding season to try her out. I'm sure it will fly. The didn't get a pic of the 69HP run but this one was close.

The outwears would be for water repellant from puddles. I have not been able to find a set with outwears. Does anyone know where they can be purchased as a set?

Yeah, it should be pretty straight forward. I just have to pick up the hand warmers and another regulator and mount them up. I think I'm going to go with type that goes under the grip so I can run the same pillow top grips that are good to your hands. I still have to fix my accessory box. I'm going back to the builder in two weeks for the new domes and dyno.

I don't remember the model that I bought. I purchased that some time ago. I know that it has a dual wire output though. 100 watt on each.

I think all I have to do is get another voltage regulator and T it into the extra wire coming out of the stator and then I have another 100 watts available to run the grips. There are two houses for rent for $50-$75 a night right in Dunbar. It seems Dunbar is centrally located near all the decent trails in that area. Money and weather will determine if I'm going on this trip

I have a race tech electric 200 watt. However only one side has wires coming out. I'm not sure what I have to do to get the other side working.

I called Al's snowmobile and talked to a tech there. They said that any universal heated grip will work on an a/c system. They gave me part numbers PH100 for $35.00 and a thumb warmer LM4500 for $25.00. These would will work on the a/c system. The thumb looks like it would be to big for a atv throttle. http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph100.htm

I've seen plenty of old sleds with no battery that had hand warmers. Were old sleds a 12 volt a/c system?

I have an old 87 exciter and it doesn't have a battery. Most old sleds don't. I'm not sure where I would mount a small battery. I already have a box mounted where the stock air box is that holds a set of tools and 2 quarts of 2 stroke oil.

I'd rather just find an a/c kit. Old snowmobile ones should work right?

http://www.vrbo.com/588079