Ryder25

I have a book. It lists special cables and then the banshee carbs it works on (for example: MIKUNI TM 28-34/VM 34, KEIHIN PJ 34-38 /PWK 28-39, LECTRON 36-38) but those cables are all for twist throttle. Then it lists their thumb throttle cable but only says it works on: (Stock, Keihin PWK28 & Mikuni TM 28-34, Keihin PJ24-36) (PN 06-1813) So, I'm not sure the thumb throttle cable works for 35mm pwk since it's clearly not listed while it is definitely listed for all other cables. The motion pro support line has no clue. I called 2 site sponsors already, they want me to buy their cable and won't tell me the part number (they charge ~$30 for a cable plus shipping when I could buy it for less than $14 shipped if I had a part number). Rather than keep calling I figured someone on here must know the part number.

Where can I go to get a thumb throttle cable for 35mm pwk airstrikers? What I'd really like is a part number for a motion pro cable but I can't find anything on their website for thumb throttle and big carbs (I am a dealer for motion pro so it would be cheapest if I could just get a part number). I called motion pro and they want me to buy a Moose throttle, send it to them, and then they will make a custom cable....that can't be the only way to do this. I know there are a ton of people with big carbs so someone must know what the Motion Pro part number is.

I'm looking for a set of JUNK cases. I am using these for a motor mount jig so all the motor mounts must still be good and in the correct position (don't want cracked mounts or holes in the bottom of the case where the motor mounts are). Not looking to pay a lot, but I'll give you something since they would otherwise be worthless. If you wanted them back, I can even work out something to ship them back when I'm done with them. let me know, Thanks

Richard Pelchat has only been racing on the ice since 2010...He also races on extremely long tracks (5/8 mile) which means the corners are going to be huge and the need for a sway-bar very small. All you need there is a powerful motor. A rider can accomplish anything a sway-bar will get him simply by moving his body around, but it is twice as much work on the body and you have to do it consistently every lap. Running a sway bar just makes it easier.

Yes, Dustin races the pro class in the EDT nationals over the summer. Since I'm in school, I miss the early and late races but travel with him during the summer months. We both motocross our dirtbikes in the summer as well. We used to motocross our quads but went back to bikes since it was cheaper than having 2 setups for the one quad. The hybrid we built (yfz chassis, trx motor), took Dustin to 5th overall in the Pro-Am class (which all the pro's run in addition to the Pro class itself) at EDT nationals in 2011 (after missing the first 2 of 8 rounds even!) and that got him his Pro license. That was also Dustin's FIRST year riding dirt flat track.

If you have a 4mil stroker then yes, you can only run the "open amateur" class. You could also run Open GP studded but that is left/right hand turns. As far as db level is concerned, they will test you at multiple points in the season to make sure you pass. I believe the first weekend is a "freebie" if you are close to the db limit and if you are new. I haven't trail ridden in a few years but yeah, Hurley is AWESOME! We used to go there twice a year and camp and ride.

Yeah, running the soft tires won't last. I'm only guessing, but if you don't have the long stud, it will rip the lugs off. Running anything .75" or shorter is bad news. We have the XC kutters. Both Dustin and I ran 3 classes, 7 weekends and then a few random night races in Michigan. The 21" tire has held up longer. You definitely HAVE to be checking your studs after riding with them. They like to turn out so they require constant maintenance. If the stud starts to turn out and you don't fix it, it puts a lot of stress on the lug. Get your tires early, put them up in your attic over the summer and they will bake. This hardens them, then you put the studs in and run. If you want more help, send me a pm closer to winter time and I'll set you up with some good tips. And damn screaminshee, we're not unbeatable, haha. I like the compliments but I'm just glad I didn't have to race against Dustin with him being on the hybrid....then my record against him would still be 0-100. The machine makes a HUGE difference.

The Kenda Kutter is king right now. They hold studs much much longer than any previous setups we've ran. You can run the 21x7-10 or the 20x6-10 depending on how low you got the front end already. Having the 20" tire will help get it lower if you run out of adjustability in your shocks. Kenda Kutter 21x7-10 We honestly haven't tried the mohawks, but the people who have tried them have had screws come out or rip the ribs apart a lot easier. For peace of mind, get the kenda kutters and then you won't have to worry about it for a very long time. This was the first tire we ever ran 2 seasons on without pulling a stud. 21" Kenda 20" Kenda

I know I don't have many posts either but Andy is a good guy. Located in Wisconsin.

trx450r motor (06+ style). I can't remember the blue color. I'm not replacing this engine, just building another quad almost identical to this with a banshee engine. I won't have the ti a-arms or aluminum axle on my hybrid but most everything else is going to be the same.

Its going to take a while. I still have to find a banshee motor, haha. I joined this site to get some help in that department. But it WILL be done by January.

bump. I'd prefer to buy just the entire bottom end at once (rather than piece it together).

I've got a mint 06 yfz roller. Comes with everything except: Motor/pipe/carb/electronics. This is the only pic I have of it right now, it shows how clean it is. There was 12.6 hours on it when the motor was taken out and the chassis has sat ever since. I've been hanging on to it to do my own hybrid. But I've since realized I'm going to build a banshee hybrid out of my current hybrid setup (just have 2 frames, one for trx motor to run in summer, one for banshee to run in winter). Located in Wisconsin Rapids, WI. But we will be traveling to all the EDT National Dirt Track races around the country. Asking $1100 obo. It is absolutely MINT.

Looking for a banshee bottom end. I need: Cases, tranny, bearings, stator, clutch, covers. Basically, everything in the bottom end except the crank. I'm looking to build a new motor from scratch, so I'll put in my own crank/cylinders/pistons/head. Let me know what you have. Not in a complete hurry for one (need it by September, haha). Thanks, Brandon

My brother and I built this hybrid 2 years ago for ice racing. It has been absolutely amazing. But now, we want to put a banshee motor in it for the 2013 ice racing season. I've joined the forum because I've seen a few conversions, and I want to find a motor and learn more about the best way to build a TT banshee motor. I'm not afraid to cut apart the frame to get this thing to fit nicely. I've got a few spare frames to play with too. I see people are wanting rolling chassis. I've got a complete stock rolling chassis for sale as well, I'll post pics of that soon. Its an 06 stock chassis with 12.8 hours on trails (hour meter), stole motor out of it and it has sat ever since.