Ryder25

Andy is a great guy, don't let his low post count fool you. This machine is in perfect condition and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. It flat out rips and it is one of only a handful of machines that can beat Dustin on his yfz/trx hybrid. Also, its listed as a 2001 but it was completely built from the ground up last December with new bearings/seals and replacing anything wore out.

That's awesome. I think Dustin and I will be attending a race or two for sure now that the SWIRA races are on Lake Wisconsin. I had heard they might move there and was disappointed that they posted their schedule without mentioning the move. Glad they squared it away!

Dustin and I try to make it to at least one of their races every year. They just posted their schedule: http://www.swiraclub.com They are on Lake Koshkonong (Sunset Bar and Grill), or at least they were last year and I'm assuming they are there again.

lol, looks like Rocky Mountain ATV also has them very cheap and FREE shipping if you order enough. They only have the itp sandstar and kenda kutter xc though.

Found probably the cheapest place for these tires (chaparral racing and dennis kirk). These prices are right around dealer cost through parts-unlimited, and you'll notice they are significantly cheaper than the retail prices I listed above. Kenda Kutter XC: http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/kenda-kutter-k580-xc-front-tire/328-5620.aspx $60 for 19", $69 for 21" CST Ablaze (itp sandstar copy): http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/cst-ablaze-cs01-sand-front-tire/368-1390.aspx https://www.denniskirk.com/search/cst+ablaze.q/40.ipp $60 ITP Sandstar: http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/itp-sand-star-rib-front-tire/337-0955.aspx https://www.denniskirk.com/itp/front-sand-star-21x7-10-tire.p542367.prd/542367.sku $54 for 19", $63 for 21" $47 for 19", $56 for 21" c826 rear: https://www.denniskirk.com/54770.sku?utm_source=shopping&utm_medium=cse $49

This is so true. Hey Jesse...Dustin knows some guys from Canada that race ice with banshees...I know Canada is big but are you the guy?

Here is the best info I can find for you in a short period: These are the 2 best front tires available to stud based on price/traction/durability (I've given the tire name, size, parts unlimited PN, and retail price) ITP Sandstar 19x6-10 Front tire: 0322-0003 $76.95 Here is a pic of someone starting to stud an ITP sandstar front tire. I would put the studs slightly closer together than this but this guy is the one guy with success with these tires and his have lasted the longest of anyone with dual-ribbed fronts so I guess I can't say much else to that effect. Almost everyone runs the 19" that has these tires, they do make a 21" (which people run non-studded). They worked well, but they won't last nearly as long as the kenda kutter XC. In fact, some people have studs ripping out after only a few races (we get over 60 motos on a set of Kenda Kutter XC's, and they are still decent we just build new ones to have fresh studs). Kenda Kutter XC 21x7-10 Front tire: 0321-0208 $111.95 ($137 for similar holeshot xc) Kenda Kutter XC 19x6-10 Front tire: 0321-0204 $100.95 (no similar holeshot xc) The tire size is personal preference. My brother and I prefer the 21" front tire, but yet we run the 19" front on the trx450r (21" on our hybrids). We've run 7 front tires, kenda mx (old style and new style), fast trekkkers, holeshots, dunlops, kenda xc, itp sandstars, maxis, and the Kenda Kutter XC lasts the longest and still hooks up amazing (we believe the old kenda mx tires were best for traction because of lug placement but they have been discontinued, the new kenda mx aren't as good). As for studding them, first, get a tire groover and grove a radial slot down the middle of the middle lugs (roughly 1/4-3/8" deep). Then, you'll put 4 studs per lug in the middle row (so there will only be 4, not 8 like if you counted the middle row as 2 lugs now that you grooved it), 2 studs per lug on the outside rows (closest to the middle). This is the no-brainer rear tire to stud. CST C826 18x9.5-8 Rear tire: c8261 $71.95 You need 1 stud per lug minimum, and if you do only oval, you need 2 studs per lug on the rightmost two rows (on both tires) and 2 studs per lug on the 3rd row in only half of the time. If you do TT, you need 2 studs per lug on the rightmost two rows (on both tires) and same for leftmost two rows (or just one leftmost row if your TT course uses an oval and is therefore mostly left handers). Doing so prolongs the life of the tire along with helping in the corners. These will last us roughly 40 motos before we start ripping studs out (only 25-30 motos without the dual studded rows). We sell them used after they lose a stud or two and they will still last another 20-30 motos but we won't take the risk of a flat tire. Lastly, any 2-ply front tire will not last long and the lugs are often far too soft causing them to fold over in corners. Holeshot XC front tires are more expensive retail than the kenda kutter XC last I saw (~$130 per tire compared to ~$110) and I didn't check holeshot mx tires.

Feel free to stop and say hi if you see us. (#25, #43) [/

well I've never ridden a different banshee motor (except a ported stock cylinder/stock stroke in a banshee chassis) so I can't tell you how it compares to another built banshee. However, it is faster out of the turns (big and small) than a built 450.

twister 4mil. Just get out front and you won't have to worrry about bumping into guys

oofs are great for ice:

engine ice boiling point is 256.

you seriously don't have radiator scoops on there? Aren't you running the stock plastics or did you remove the radiator scoop portion? it won't cool off when you slow down...you need to be MOVING for the air to cool the radiator off. Water temps were never over 180 on mine (stock radiator, stock radiator cap, plastic impeller, engine ice). Cylinder temps reached 220 max.

stock yfz450 radiator, no fan, stock cap, engine ice. I've got a spare new PWR (yfz450) radiator but I doubt I'll be using it. No issues so far. However, I'm running in the winter, on an oval at high speeds...there isn't really any better conditions for keeping a motor cool than that. In fact, we sometimes tape part of our radiators off cuz they run too cold.

here are some better pics of the mounts Getting the holeshot and leading my brother on our hybrid with pro-tt motor (runs edt nationals in pro/pro-am/pro-am-unlimited with that motor).

Sure hope this isn't a bansheehq member...hahahaha http://wausau.craigslist.org/bar/3614847583.html "I will even clean for the right deal", he says. gotta love it.

couldn't shift into third so started 5th....passed up to 2nd down the first straight...it is FAST!!! haha. I got beat by my buddy who built a banshee motor similar to mine (but has it in a banshee frame). I drove by 3 guys on the back straight like they were standing still. But at the end of the race I couldn't downshift into 3rd (so stuck in 4th/5th/6th....so it's coming apart and I couldn't run it in the final. But, it is MUCH faster than our trx/yfz hybrid and that machine has yet to be consistently beat (I won 35 of 36 races with it last year and I only lost because I blew it up). The handling is AWESOME! It rides almost as good as our trx/yfz hybrid and that is the best we've ridden on. I hopped on the pro trx for the mains and got second behind the trx/yfz hybrid (my brother) after getting the holeshot in all 3 starts/restarts. The buddy with the banshee couldn't shift off the start either and started 8th in the one that counted. His doesn't handle as well so he has to run wide in the corners and couldn't get past many guys.

Thanks camatv. I really went through your pictures and did things as cleanly as possible. I didn't take any other pictures. It was a supposed to be a very secretive build for this ice racing season. I'll have pictures up in about a week with more details.

the WR crank is the OEM one. Hot Rods makes one but you lose some of the benefits (weight mostly), best off getting either oem 06 yfz450 crank or oem wr450 crank (can't remember the year but I think I used the 04 one, just look it up on google and you'll find the right year). Both cranks will make it a true 450. For the WR crank, it's just drop in (as well as 06+), same bearings you had originally (you should buy new ones), same gaskets (also should buy new ones obviously). With the WR crank, you have to run yz450f bike pistons. CP makes bike pistons so you can run them. The compression will be slightly higher using the WR crank, slightly lower than with your 05 with the OEM 06+ crank (this is taking into account you buy the same compression ratio piston). If I remember right, any OEM 06+ crank will have .3 points less compression (ie: 12.5:1 piston will be 12.2:1 piston with 06+ crank) and I can't remember how much more compression the WR crank has but that you can also easily find. Don't waste your money on cams. The oem yfz cams are absolute rockstars (not like the trx).

Both cranks will be reliable and good for trail/play, and neither require spacer plates or thicker gaskets. Some guys will say you'll have trouble in tight trails with the WR crank because it's lighter (stalls easier), but that's not really as big a deal as they'll lead you to believe. CP is a great piston for YFZ's. I'd just get whatever crank you can get easier. The stock 06+ crank will be the cheaper route unless you can find someone selling a WR crank on another forum. I've never personally ran big bores, but if you do get a big bore, make sure you get a CP (or w/e you want) piston instead of the ones that come with the kits.

do not rebuild a crank. it's pretty much just as cheap to go with a stock crank (try servicehonda.com, they are easily the most reputable parts dealer that sells oem cheap if you don't want to check other online sites). if you don't plan on building this motor for big power, then it is much much cheaper to go with 06+ crank (drops right in and is +1.4mm stroke), stock piston, decent full exhaust and "cam mod" (which you can look up on google and it will give you easy instructions to do). the WR crank is a nice crank but if you're going for big power then the piston selections are horrid. There are benefits to the crank (lighter, smaller wrist pin, "better" rod length/angle, slightly higher compression compared to 06+, ect), but you have to run a dirtbike piston and if you're custom building a motor it's hard to get good pistons other than shelf yz450f aftermarket pistons.

It looks like the chain would rub right through the chain guide on the front of the swingarm (where the pivot bolt is) and ruin your guide and chain pretty quickly. Might want to double check that.

thanks.

I called motion pro already...and like I said above, they didn't have a clue. They were the ones who wanted me to buy a Moose throttle and send it to them and then they would custom make a cable for me.