Ryder25

$5500 for everything to run except top end (twister cylinders/pistons/head).

Thought I'd have people jumping all over a clean, well built, full long travel PEP hybrid! I started the price high...asking $7500. $5k no motor pieces (all spare chassis parts and full long travel pep setup front and back or full flat-track setup).

I've also got a set of 35mm airstrikers I'd sell.

haha yeah it gets cold out there! I'm used to just reaching back and warming it up with the exhaust. Buy this, and go race 1-2 SWIRA big race in Wisconsin, 2 Escanaba MI big race, and you'll win over $1500 easily. Do that for a few years and it will pay for itself! Race summer oval at dirt car tracks and make a couple hundred each time too.

Matt Shearer says his BB pipes should be run on motors bigger than 72mm (so 72mm is cutting it close; he recommended small bore when I talked to him for 72mm cylinders). CPI cutoff is recommended at the 72mm bore.

bump...this beauty is for sale...check it out in the for-sale forum. It rips and handles awesome. Has full long travel shock setup included so you don't have to use it for just flat-track.

Located in Wisconsin Rapids, WISCONSIN Asking: $8500 I've invested about $11,500 in this already without counting any time building the hybrid. My brother and I built this ourselves and we took our time to do it correctly (motor is perfectly lined up with swingarm). We put a lot of time into our hybrid projects. I'm selling because I will have no more time to ride as I need to finish my dissertation and will be going on the job market next year (aka no more racing/riding for me for a while). I've sold most all of my toys, and all I have left is my rubber ice racing quad and this. The motor sits as low in the frame as possible (the correct way to build a hybrid). Inframe pipes ARE possible as I cut the frame down-tubes out, but not all of them will fit, there are no restrictions where I race so I ran the OOF's. 4mil Hot Rods Crank (trued/welded) 72mm Wiesco Pistons Billet Twister Cylinders ported by Kevin at HJR (aggressive dune port) 25cc domes (170lbs compression) Adjustable timing plate Lightened flywheel Hinson Billet basket Direct drive lockup and cover billet water pump cover billet stator cover straight cut gears VForce3's Pingle Dual feed petcock Billet Intakes 33-35mm Keihin 35mm PWK Airstrikers (some pics show Keihin PJ 34mm carbs, I used both) Pod filters CPI BB OOF Pipes CV4 Radiator hose with temp gauge OEM wiring harness/cdi/coil/stator "drag cut"...only essential wires to run + kill switch. Chassis: YFZ frame/subframe JB long travel a-arms (+2") PEP 8 click fully adjustable front shocks PEP big bottle fully adjustable rear shock Stock swingarm (Brand new billet lonestar carrier as spare) Lonestar +2/+2 adjustable axle Lonestar rear hubs (HONDA Pattern) RPM Front hubs (HONDA Pattern) Pro Peg nerf bars (with 1" lower peg mount for more leg room) ASR-FX stem and clamp +2" Tag CR-Dbl Hi Bars Tag front bumper Dual braided brake lines front, braided line rear ASV clutch and brake lever TRX450r thumb throttle Quadtech seat with hump (2 holes in cover, have stock seat also) Full Laker Custom set of plastic Rath Swaybar PEP's are LT freshly serviced by Seth at SF Racing. Douglas or ITP front/rear rims with full set of American Racers (6-10 laps on most tires, I've got about 70 you can choose from, haha). I'm sure I'm forgetting a few odds and ends. For spare stuff, I have brand new moose stator and timing plate and good flywheel. Spare Hot Rods 4mil crank in great shape that measures within spec (went with brand new because Jeff at Fast was having a sale and I wanted to start with new). Spare motor mounts and bolts, brand new spare lonestar bearing carrier, spare frame (not cut for motor yet), full complete spare tranny, 1 tranny about half complete, HiPer Beadlock rear rims with holeshot tires as spares, and other small things. Always ran VP113 with 32:1 mix. Honda transmission oil for clutch oil (same thing we run in our trx450r pro motors). The clear plastic and white plastic piece in the next photo are just to deflect the snow-dust at the ice races...otherwise the filters get caked in snow since there is no air-box. This thing is setup to handle like a dream on the ice. It is the only quad that can easily beat our yfz/trx hybrid on the ice (that has won over 100 races the past 3 years at 6 different ice racing associations). I will consider selling just the rolling chassis/motor separate but have not figured on a price. I would prefer to sell the thing complete. I DO NOT want to be left with just the motor as I have nothing to put it in. I can always hold onto the chassis and rob parts from it if I sold the motor though.a Serious inquiries only, please e-mail me at bjhoffman@wisc.edu or send me pm's on here or reply to this posting....whatever is easier and I'll get you my phone number so I can answer any questions you have.

Ended up today with 165 mains (48 pilots, CG L needle bottom clip, 1.25 turns out air screw) on 34mm PJ's 145 mains (42 pilots, DE K needle 2nd clip from top, 1.5 turns out air screw) on 35mm PWK Airstrikers. Changed nothing else except for the carbs on the motor listed above. Used an A/F meter to jet.

yeah I won't drop to a 140 right away. I was saying I will jet into the 140's. I think my buddy has more of a drag port, and 190psi compression. CPI sb inframe pipes too. That's why I stole his carbs to check jetting on my motor because of the differences. He also put his motor in my yfz hybrid frame, so he used the CPI bb OOF pipes and was at a 178 main jet with the 34mm pj's (also might have been a 10-20 degree difference in temp), so we figured the pipes weren't making that big of a difference in jetting, it must be mostly from porting and engine size. I haven't tried the 35mm airstrikers on his motor yet, probably the next thing I'll do if I still can't get it working correctly on mine.

yeah I've been checking plugs, monitoring temps, and looking at piston wash alot lately. I also hate the PJ design, but I was too nervous to run anything smaller than a 150 main so I swapped carbs to see and all my buddy had were the PJ's that he runs on his 421 (with 175 mains). thanks for the input. I'll swap carbs again and try 140's for mains next time.

I've got a 4mil 72mm Twister motor with hjr agressive dune port, 170psi compression, CPI BB oof pipes, stock electronics, VF3's. I haven't ever gotten it jetted right with my 35mm airstrikers (always rich). I'm down to a 42 pilot and 150 mains and it is still rich. I've taken apart the carbs and completely cleaned them twice (never anything clogged that I could see). Idle is okay, fuel screw 1.5 turn out. When I threw my buddy's 34mm PJ's on, I had 52 pilots and 165 mains (can't remember needle off the top of my head but it is at bottom clip) and that is perfect, fuel screw 2 turns out. This is why I'm unsure of how low to go on the airstrikers (started at 170 and went down to 150). Will the airstrikers really be that much lower on mains/pilots, or do you think I have a problem with the carbs? I looked this up and saw some people have smaller mains with airstrikers, but will they really be in the 130's-140's when a PJ is 165? temp is 20 degrees, elevation 800ft.

I'd be interested in just carbs for the right price...

you should have just followed the advice provided... You've just ruined a set of nice new front tires by putting studs in them. If you are going to try to get them tires to work, make sure every stud is facing the same way (so the slot is running radial). Then you will need 1-2 studs (probably 2) in each of the lugs on the sides of the middle one.

Post them for sale in the yfz/banshee hybrid section, might get someone interested. I bought a set of junk cases just to mock up frames for the conversion.

Yes, nice job on the pipes. I can't imagine you could get them tucked in any further than that!