special06shee

Looks like a very nice design and finished product. I might need to invest in a set.

Tap on cage with rubber mallet

The slides can most defiantly be put in backwards if they are mixed up from side to side. The bottom radius of the slide has to be toward the bell of the carb.(airbox side) if the slides are in backwards it will run like a piece of shit until the higher rpms. Just pull one slide out. If the radius is not toward the bell, Swap the slides around and problem solved

Very nice! From what ive seen shearer always builds killer motors!

the oring might of got pinched during assembling?

sounds like you have a stout motor! may i ask who ported it and set up the domes?

best bet is to go to sears and buy a decent compression tester. ive had several gauges that were bad or inconcistent. one of witch i bought brand new from an autoparts store. that paticular gauge read 30ish lbs low. ive had great luck with my craftsman tester. reads within 1-2lbs compared to my father's 2 snapon testers

I can assure you redline is top notch! Most builders will get you the hp out of that cylinder.. But redline builds his motors with a very broad power range! Not just for peak hp.

my vote for a solid set up would be a 10cub! very cheap considering the performance you get! call redline if you want a very solid tq monster! he will set you up with everything! id stay way from the serval! specially if you plan on dragging! i ride with 3 10servals. they work very well down low and in the mid, but are very lazy up top! my 10cub ported by redline is a very solid!! never overheats, and make a super broad power curve!

im not doubting your claims...(well maybe a little ) but you make some pretty bold statements about these 535. i have a buddy with one that works AMAZING! i rode that bike serveral times and it very impressive! but i truly need to see some proof (dyno sheets) to believe these claims you always state! another thing about the 535's... they are quite a bit more money for the topend, pvs, and just maintaining(piston cost). besides, is a big cc motor, it should run good! right? im im looking foward to this hq ride in september, i hope you and your 535 are there! i really would love to see your bike in action! i do here it's nasty!

that chart is very helpful in truly understanding the MANY ways how needles effect jetting! ive used this chart many times when finding that "perfect" needle! I also think that the needle choice of jetting is the most important but also the most over looked aspect of the tuning game! a poor needle choice will make a quad feel like a total shit turd! and as far as the dgh needle, thats the needle I run in my 10cub on gas. my setup runs extremely well from bottom to top! it never over heats and never fouls plugs!

I run type f as well! And i run the balls off the bike all the time! Sometimes im lazy and dont change the fluid for months! Ive tried just about every trans fluid out there, All the people that think that their expensive fluid shift better, last long...blah blah.. Are delusional!

Only difference is the cpi stamp is on the inside.. Much nicer imo! Cpi no longer offers this option.

A little birdie once told me Redline was decent at porting

I used a jaw puller on my old fly wheel.. (The threads were stripped) anyway i had to put it back on in a pinch. I wasn't sure if i tweaked it or not so i put it on and started the bike without the stator cover on just to see if it was still somewhat true.. By eye i did not see anything out of the norm.. And it work like it should until i received my new one.. That flywheel has been been on a buddy of mines quad for over a yr. now with no problems! But like loco said, its probably not wise to run it if not needed!

if you bought the cpi's right from cpi.. then thats your problem. cpi chrome is nothing special. i have had seen 5+ sets of cpi's right fom cpi.. they look nice but its by no means triple plated show chrome. the chrome is very weak, and thin. i personal had a set of cpi's with the stamps turned in. i had redline get them for me through cascade. they were the nicest pipe(as far as chrome) ive ever had/seen! the chrome was AWESOME!!! very deep, durable! when my shearers need to be refinished, cascade will be doing the chrome!

this low life needs to get his ass kicked!! your a fucking bum!

if you have a "drag" ported cub, and are going to be racing more then anything, then it is a no brainier. go with the in frame drag pipe that has been proven time and time again that makes the most power. shearer!! if you were more geared toward trails, hills, stuff that requires a bit more bottom end then the cpi would be a better choice. I had a redline ported 421 cub.(not drag ported) Cameron more or less tried to extract the most amount of usable power out of the cyl. and domes.. that motor really liked the sb cpi's.

Switch it out with one of your buddies wheels when they aren't looking

Wow! Your mad that the guy buying from you got all snippy with you?? What are you retarded? Must be! You clearly showed a pic of new clamps and then sold used ones! You lied! I usually dont resort to violence, but some people really need their asses kick for just being stupid! They should pass a law that honest people are allowed to beat the shit out of folks like you! Pow! Now take those clamps and shove them up your ass you pickle sucker!

If i was competing in timed comps. or truly raced against others im sure i would of tried a set of the bb's for sure! But for what i do with my shit turd i kinda was after a broad curve so i am totally cool with giving up some hp on the big end.

i have a 10cub built by redline. im running shearer sb's. the bike works super great with them, power everywhere. cameron told me that bb's would probably make a couple peak hp up top but would probably give up some of the bottom and mid range.

^^^ what he said.60-65hp. a lot of people dont realize what it takes to get a bike to 80hp! my rule of thumb about estimating hp is, i take the hp number you think your making, then minus 25% and that is more of the realistic number your probably making.

ahhh.... cool

mabe the master cylinder is bad? and yes, tyler is 100% right! i did this a coupe times at camp when tools were limited. just take the hoses from the fuel cap, put over bleeder and suck baby suck!!!