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the honda bearing is a high qaulity ntn. bearing on the pancake setup i bought was cheezy garbage. the cage wasnt even symetrically round. i did have comparison photos. ill see if theyre still kicking around

the problem is the bearing and washer. not the main pancake piece that the rod pushes. im sure several companies are making the pancake setup but the one i bought looked like the bearing was made by little chinese kid with hammer and chisel. here u go bigred . washer 90608-072-000 bearing 91001-147-003

maybe your friend isnt interested but ive found oem cr500 bearing and washers to be much better than the cheezy bearing those pancake setups are supplied with

ken oconner is the guy u wanna talk to

ya some ignition systems dont seem to be bothered no matter how high the compression or how much fuel u dump in

never gapped plugs either. tried smaller gap once and engine ran just the same so i just drop em in right from the box

eff that wind

i could see .5hp but more than that seems hard for me to believe. i think the main reason for these engines using a helical gear was noise reduction, maybe just using up old surplus from when the engine was used in street bikes, just a guess. spur gears can be rather noisy and the faster they turn the louder they are. ever hear a street race car with a gear drive crank and cam. makes a terrible whining sound. similar to a manual transmission in reverse, only louder. reason most poeple dont notice much noise from straight cuts on their atv is because many times they have unsilenced pipes or just loud exhaust in general. reason most other 2strokes have factory straight cuts is likely because theyre easier and cheaper to make and noise reduction is no concearn

gasoline and a match should do the trick

sweet. ive got one with original stickers and tires. rarely ride it but not sure i want to sell it

sell the heap and get a boat

every instance ive encountered , bog meens its leen. i just told u how to see if its your prob in less than 5min

start it with choke on and leave it on. wack throttle a few times and see if boggs gone which im thinking it will be. then u know the problem

oil on the crack wont make 2 fuks of difference to a pro welder. he would have full knowledge how to prep the weld area.

do u have a photo of it. sounds like its on the case top and not into the bearing bore or anything like that. u can drill a hole at ends of the crack then grind out the crack and weld it. just take it to someone with experience

golly

take top ring off and cut new domes. back in business

u dont even need a hose if u dont want. but to the question just put the hose were ever is convenient

maybe im understanding u wrong but if you plug both vents u wont like the results. the trans and clutch area need vented. since they communicate with each other u can just use the vent at the rear of the cases

another give away that its a closed loop / recorculating system is on the recovery bottle theres a low and full mark if i recall. there would be no reason for these marks if it was a simple catch tank

its been a while since ive seen a standard banshee cooling system but i think it works the same way as a car. with the pressure differences it can push fluid out of the rad and pull it back in. if the overflow was nothing more than a catch tank there would be no reason for a hose to be in the tank bottom

i wouldnt hesitate to have jerry take a peek at it, if your deadset on taking it to a shop. seems like hes in glendale.

by chance did u check float height and needle and seat. bypass or remove any fuel filter for now just to rule that out

no way in hell i would pay 500bones for someone else to sort it out. i wouldnt even pay 50 but thats just me. youll figure it out sooner or later and being a auto mechanic gives u some knowledge that will be pertinant. i would of guessed electrical problem but u said u ruled out every possible electrical component. pull head off and look around is what i would do at this point. take a few measurments of stuff and see if anything seems odd. i dont believe your cyl pressure in itself has anything to do with it

most likely the last person used a impact gun on the nut and this is the end result. if u do get the flywheel off i would check everything real good with dial indicator since the crank snout now looks like hamburger. personally i would probly put it in the scrap like tricked said. next time put small bit of grease or something an the shaft and only tighten the nut to what the book says with torq wrench