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i think that noise is probly your pancake bearing and/or the lifter perch the bearing rides on . alot of bikes do it to some extent. all my bikes do it, some louder than others. hondas seem to be pretty quit, ktm pretty noisy. its usually normal unless theres alot of noise or squeeling or some vibration. manual transmission vehicles even do it alot of times. its the throw out bearing. pancake bearing is nothing more than a throw out bearing in a car. check service manual for a tranny shaft end float spec. probly be in the .008-.015" range

what does a photo of a failed beaing prove ? absolutely nothin. many failures can be traced back to the operator in some way. we need the entire story to even have a chance of determining if it was a failure of the bearing or failure of the operator or failure of some other internal part that caused a chain reaction to the bearing. was it overloaded with power and trq ? was the rpm ceiling exceeded ? did it have sufficient lubrication ? was it side loaded when the cases were assembled? detontation could have jack hammered it apart. the list is endless as to what could of happened. then theres the remote chance the bearing just had a factory flaw. i posted a link that showed many instances where caged ball bearings were failing, and my theory is because they were put under to much load. and the reason i have that theory is because a roller bearing was issued as its replacement. maybe you just exceeded its breaking point some how and should have used a different kind of bearing ? im confident skf is every bit as good as anything else on the market but use what ever you feel comfortable with. if your piston seizes dont go back to wiseco crying. i think you get the point

heres something interesting that pertains to ball vs rollers. i dont claim to know the exact reason the ball bearings were failing but my guess is the ball bearing just cant handle the torque or radial load in this particular scenario. at any rate, there was enough failures, ktm recognised there was a problem and posted a service bulletin and advised bike owners to upgrade to a roller bearing behind the clutch basket. 2stroke models supposedly didnt require the upgrade bearing according to the service bulletin but i swapped mine anyways for piece of mind. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73558

myself i wouldnt use ceramics. some dude on another site tried ceramic ball bearings in place of the oem roller bearings and the ceramics exploded in a short amount of time. he got a learning experience to say the least. cylindrical rollers are you best bearing for handling high radial loads but they arent so good at side loads so you need straight cut gears but ball bearings do work fine for alot of engines if you use the skf explorer, nachi or koyo. if you can put rollers on both sides is the best way IMO , but some engines arent designed to accomidate that type of bearing on both sides ticktock: roller bearing can handle some side load, just not a huge amount. with straight cut gears you should have very little side load

check how well the manifold matches to the insert. i think your biggest concearn is if the insert hole is smaller than the manifold hole. i know the v3 dont match up for shit on some models. had to demel my cr500 v3

bring extra pair of shocks for your truck. maybe balljoints also. road going in pretty rough

ya what he said this puts it in lamens terms http://www.2strokeheads.com/tech2.htm