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labratory analysis is the only way to determine whats going on with the fluid. looking at it determines nothing as far as its state of composure, most of the time. unless you see water in it or it smells burnt but thats a different topic. change diesel oil and the moment you pour the new stuff in, its coal black, but certainly its not broke down yet. your not breaking down atf in 2 rides i can gaurantee that. cars go 60K miles with just as much if not more heat, same type of gears, same type of clutch plates, same type of bearings. where vehicles and qauds are different, cars have a filter so all the particles dont go through the internal components, qauds have no filter system. it is a good idea to change your qaud fluid frequently, so the amount of particles running through the bearings and gears is kept to a minimum, but certainly the fluid hasnt lost its normal lubricating properties

if you layed a piece of plexi glass across your dome and poured in oil you may have a 22cc total volume. once you put the head on the engine and piston is at TDC you will be pouring in less oil because the piston crown is now taking up some of that volume. if your 14:1 was done correct, you would of poured in roughly 16cc like mentioned before. and i might of steered you wrong on the first page, 2cc smaller dome would raise the CR ratio by two numbers. example 10:1 to 12:1

thats from above the exh port. different ball of wax than measuring from the full stroke. i dont see why people get so stumped on this comrpession ratio shit. put piston at TDC, pour oil through the plug hole until it gets to the threads, record how much oil you poured in. total cylinder volume+ amount of oil you poured in the plug hole divided by the amount of oil your poured in the plug hole. if you want to know the japanese method then pour oil in from where the piston is at the top of the exh port

wheres gordon jennings when you need him. would like to see a test between r50 and benol in a controlled envirnment

i believe a 2cc decrease in head volume would eqaul 1 number higher for your ratio. assuming you calculated correct to get 14:1, you would have about 15:1 with 20cc

you say it ran well but if water is introduced into one of the cylinders you would think it would run alittle strange. im thinking it just leaned out on the one side. look at the difference in the wristpins. the one with blue heat marks appears it got hot. check underneath the pistons also. the scuffed one will probly have black death. means the crown temp got hot enough to cook the oil past its limits. at that point its all over but the crying

i dont know much about vito but its seems they been around a while. you can only assume they would have the domes figured out by now, so there would be no need to offer a bunch of "options". then again ive seen people in this business 30years and still dont know anything. if you want something different than what they offer you can buy a blank dome and have it cut to your own specs

website says 9* domes is for blaster pistons only. aparently those pistons have different radius than regular pistons. do you know what pistons you have ? might want to figure that out. just my unprofessional observation

i was going to try a wossner in my honda but its only a single ring so i stayed with wiseco. plus i wanted to see some info on the piston and what it looked like before i dropped the cash. like how thick the skirts are, if theres any cutouts at the wristpins, whats the over all weight.

namura are made in taiwan. if you want to spend your cash on that garbage then go ahead

just another opinion but i wont use the amsoil stuff. seems like they try to buy customers. tv comercials, billboards, emblems on the side of trucks. ill stick with benol

all the engines i worked with have a small amount of end float in the trans shafts. if theyre tight then you would be side loading the bearings constantly which aint good. i can only assume the banshee is the same

its only money. spend it before obama steals it

the rubber rings on the xring chains can dry rott, seen it happen on a rk 520 exw. at that point theres significant drag and its like your towing a boat anchor. maybe they still need lube ? hek i dont know. personally i use the DID non oring 520nz. been holding up good on 500cc+ singles. seen the primary drive stuff from rockymountain, look like garbage to me

i didnt see it mentioned but something else that should be a fairly high priority when building a drag race engine is the type of tranny (override or non override) and the ratios of each gear. my honda was having a problem pulling 5th in the rpm range the engine was designed for. changing sprockets wasnt a option because it would throw the speed of the other 4 gears out of whack, so i put in a different 5th gear that shortened the gap between 4/5 so the rpm doesnt drop near as much. little shit like that can make alot of difference. if anybody messes with something other than banshee like honda or kawi or ktm etc etc youll find the trannys have different ratios from one bike to the next. a typical drag port job may not work that well on other engines with wider ratio trannys so you might have to port everything for alittle extra torque

like i said, i dont know anybody involved. but banshee8 "claims" he recieved a message last friday saying the parts were shipped or were going to be shipped, today they still havent been shipped. lets assume its the truth for a moment, if it happened to me i would be getting alittle uneasy right now and im sure anyone else in this same situation would be also. takes only a few minutes to throw stuff in a box, then drop it off at the post office when your out driving around town or something. then again maybe banshee8 is posting bullshit.

i posted because IF his story is true, i believe he has a legitimate complaint. if hes lying and stirring shit then thats fuked up.

if you take some ones money, tell them you sent the part but didnt, that would make you a doosh. if fastbanshee8 story is true, sounds like he has a legitimate complaint to me. i dont know anybody involved in this but thats how i see it

alot of craftsman stuff is a good product but i cant say that about their new torq wrenches from my experience with them. the plastic handle and lock mechanisn just seems cheesy and substandard compared to other brands that use full steel contruction. if i was to buy a new one tomorow i would probly go with armstrong or maybe proto

do not waste your time or money. their junk. bought one and didnt work from the first day. took it back the next day and got a refund

just trying to help you in simple terms. imo people get caught up too much in the psi tunell vision. honestly cranking pressure is the last thing i worry about. my honda single is 13.5:1 but only about 120psi at 6000' just because the way the engine is setup. your 165 is fine, put it together and ride

im not sure theres a competant engine builder in the world that uses cylinder pressure to decide what octane fuel to use. too many other important things than what a psi gauge says if you want to know compression ratio forgot about messing with the head. bolt it back onto the jug and put piston at TDC and measure how much fluid you pour through the plug hole until it gets to the bottom of the threads. total cylinder volume+head volume at tdc divided by head volume at tdc= compression ratio checking the method above the exh port is the same way except you calculate from the top of the port instead of BDC

90* tool are expensive little buggers. never could find a used one so just bought new. put a dent in the wallet for sure

alot of it is in the final gearing but if your using the later model honda engines you want to swap the 4/5 gears for the '91 then you get about 7-8mph between all the shifts and it doesnt let you rpm drop too far

its not banshee but on my personal honda i did 199/135 with cpi pipe and it went pretty good last year. in the process of changing a few things for this year