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ill keep you posted when i head down. if you can make it cool. if not im sure ill see you down there sometime. going atleast 2-3 more times this summer

might hit sand mnt in maybe 2weeks (not sure yet). you mainly race the hill ?

looks fine to me. you notice if there was a burn mark at the bend of the strap ?

if your only doing short wide open bursts like motox track you can get away with lean jetting on the ragged edge. running pinned for 600' you probly want the brown ring alittle higher up the porcelin. 1/3 to 1/2 way up. im no carb expert but i run 600' and it dont take long to ruin a engine if you get caught with your pants down

craftsman aint what it used to be. some of their stuff is still good but some is junk. torq wrench with plastic handles ? old ones were all metal. snapon, proto, armstrong, is probly a better choice for top qaulity

inline filter is good idea. i took all my tank screens out and put em in the trash then install inline unit. dont take long to see the crap they collect that other wise would of went through the carb. visu filter brand is best imo. made in usa. i run bronze element and paper. depending what metal mesh you have, they can filter down to the same micron as paper or bronze but generally metal mesh wont catch the smaller particles. not sure what to say about paper not letting oil through except thats some hogwash.

seems like you mentioned a 48 in there now. most likely your not far off thats why i mentioned drop 1-3 sizes. if it was my bike i would throw in a 42 and see what happens. got several bikes with pwk and one is using a 40 and the other 45 and have another bike with pwk but cant recall the pilot size. probly around 42. if its a newer carb with the plastic idle screw they usually put loctite crap on the threads at the factory. make sure you can turn the screw all the way in because that stuff on the threads is so it dont vibrate out but some people get confused when the screw gets tight about half way in and they think it wont go in no further but it does

sounds like your just 1-3 sizes large on the pilot. with the a/s 2.5 out and it wont idle generally that means you should drop it down. not sure if your familiar with the pj but every pwk ive used needs several sizes smaller pilot than pj

widowmaker is in utah east of ogden. not sure if they do qauds though. could buy a $500 yz490 and get after it

http://autoholics.com/2011/02/16/Are-Junk-Chinese-Car-Parts-Taking-Over-the-Universe-503547

jet kits are lame

sounds like every rod is breaking, some alot more than others. my thought from the beginning is why no one has tried to fix the problem. i suggested maybe find something from a different engine that would work. maybe theres no other rods from different engine that will fit, i dont know, it was just a suggestion. anybody asked cranks works what it would take to have a batch of beefed up rods made ? my buddy had wiseco make a batch of custom pistons, not sure what wiseco charged him but he was selling them to me and other people for $250 which aint bad for 92mm slug. last i talked to him he was talking with crank works to have rods made for some vintage bikes, havent talked to him lately so i dont know the updates on that yet. pretty sure you could gather 50 people to get some custom rods made. of course with a stronger rod comes less failures, might cut into the builders wallets. maybe they want your motor to explode

whats the difference on the rd400 rods ?

ya every rod has a breaking point but if your building a engine with 110 rods, personally i would only use oem or prox or look for something similar in length that will be stronger, rather than use taiwan shit. if you need 115 rods i would look into a rod that maybe you could use from a different engine, again i would use a qaulity japan rod. arent the 250r guys using ktm and yz490 rods because theyre alot stronger ? i put a honda rod in my ktm because its 5x stronger. gotta think outside the box fellers . im not even a pro engine builder but i seen right away the weak link on my motor was the rod. rather than wait until it snapped in half at 8k rpm punching a hole through my cases and wrecking the cylinder, i thought of a solution. smaller rod was the oem unit. you can see i replaced it with a considerably stronger rod assembly and i used prox brand in case your wondering. it cost a whopping $100 machine work to make it fit on the crank but thats dirt cheap compared to what happens when a rod lets go. slightly trecnhed the cases also. pretty sure the transmission will fall out before this rod breaks lower bearing upper bearing. dont look like it but both use same diameter wrist pin

yup prox and oem only thing i use

these any good ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-350-BANSHEE-PROX-CONNECTING-ROD-87-06-/120925676809?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c27bb6509&vxp=mtr

shootin flames is badass . wish mine could do that

i have 2 bikes that did exact same thing. ran fine then i rebuilt the engines then they wouldnt run with choke off. had carbs off 4 times and messed with pilot jet sizes. they run now with choke off but wont idle. still havent figured out what the hell the problem is but dirt aint causing it. probly try this weekend to sort it out

sounds like sunday is where its at. 70* and no rain or wind

i dont have a banshee but i got a few other 2strokes and theres prox rods in all of them. i dont worry one bit of them breaking. just sayin

does prox make rods for your engines ?

ill probly be there but i dont know anybody from adam. wheres everyone going to be ?

you talking about wiseco rings or some other brand ? wiseco is usually minimum .004 per inch of bore, atleast thats what the instructions said on mine but maybe yours are different. that adds up to minimum .0145 on my bore, the gap was actually about .021 which was fine considering its a modified engine. ring gap typically has a wide window of acceptable clearance, just dont run them too tight or youll have a bad day real fast

all the ford trucks use atf in the manual trannys not just automatics. towing 16,000lbs doesnt require protection of the gears and bearings ? im not here supporting atf, infact i dont use it. just sayin it takes alot more than 2 rides before it breaks down. doesnt matter what kind of fluid your run, IMO its all gonna work pretty good, considering most guys change it frequently. gear oil, atf, motor oil, hydraulic oil, or if you buy into the motorcycle specific oil nonsense....... take your pick and go ride think about it. how many knuckleheads juice up there powerstroke to 700+ftlb of torque. your little qaud transmission is just a drop in the bucket

theres a few labs around the country if you wanted to send them a sample for analysis. maybe somebody could do it and post the result to debunk all the myth that these bikes ruin the fluid in 2 rides. hell ride with the same oil for 3 months and send it in. would be interesting to see