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i wonder how much of ktm's money funded the development of vf4. i think they were exclusive to the ktm 250 until just recently when the banshee version popped up. been installed as original equipment for atleast a year i think

i used a dremel long time ago. no one said it couldnt be done. theres far better tools however. at a far higher price tag though. next time i wouldnt get real concearned with doing a mirror shine on the exh port. looks good though

brand new vf3 will show light. that aint a very good test. if theres no big gap, chips, breaks etc then theyre fine

read everything you can find. most are free online if you search around

i think cc specialty has left hand carbides. gonna get some but havent got around to it yet. cuts correct when motor is reversed. basically you do one side of transfers with normal bit then use left hand with motor on reverse for the other side

in the places where it kicksback i use reverse with normal bit. doesnt cut as fast but still works fine

just run the motor in reverse with a normal carbide. still cuts decent

what this guy said. .20 over dont matter unless you be pouring it on the pistons

cm is not a measurement of liquid volume in your situation. most likely it says cm3 if you look again. which only means cubic centimeters or cc. 1 cc is 1 milliliter. you should be able to figure it out from there

alot of ebay seals, gaskets and bearings is taiwan garbage. take caution what you buy

oil goes grey pretty fast if you got aluminum clutch plates. just a normal thing

good r/a handpiece is $500 new. still to this day i never seen a used one on ebay. new motor, foot control and straight handpiece is $300. and a few hundred $$$ more in various carbides. nothing in this business is cheap. well except the degree wheel. about $15 normally

i see a couple problems right off the bat. no clear game plan of what or where to cut and doesnt have the proper tools. without a 90* tool you better put a fork in it because your done. and for the 3rd time figure out how to use a degree wheel. how to make a piston stop and find TDC. pretty simple things you need to know. gather some more info and aquire a few tools then dive in

you wont be a superstar over night. you may never be a superstar. maybe you understand that, maybe you dont. but thats the way it is. i spent couple years reading books, examining different cylinders, picking up info across the web from anybody willing to talk. night classes at a college dont hurt either. its doubtful you even know the bare basics but youll learn in time. very few people in this industry know everything, hard to say whether they will admit it or not though. some can port like a mutha but cant weld to save their life. some can port and weld but dont have a clue how to make a correct pipe. i know of only one guy that i consider to have a good grasp on all aspects of these bikes. porting, cut a correct head, make a pipe, weld, machine a trench in the cases, and dyno the whole setup afterwards. he can do just about everything. ditch the tape measure and learn to understand the degree wheel is my advice

i was gonna try and help but looks as you got it all under control . 184.2 ? WTF is that. 2 tenths of a degree. hahaha good luck dude

get a degree whel then you dont have to screw around measuring shit

wouldnt it be some form of 6305 bearing with ring groove ? pretty common bearing i think

fuel seapage where any 2 parts join together meens the gasket is leaking. really dont need a tester to confirm it

scimitar seems like it would kick ass and take names. does it require billet cases and special crank ?

if you ruin 30 jugs, you didnt learn a damn thing along the way. further more, theres plenty of free knowledge out there of some of the do's and dont's

anyone going to be there saturday ?

maybe you had taiwan chain

alot of little things can add up to a big thing but enlarging the windows by itself really wont do much except create a more crack prone area. plan to do frequent inspections if you make the hole bigger

supposedly max power happens about 1mm or alittle less. dime is around 1.4mm. i could only assume it takes alot of time to keep a engine tuned on the razors edge like that

according to some tuning books the ideal ring for maximum power is about 1/2 - 2/3 thickness of a dime. basically just a whiff of brown. most people ride for fun and dont need to be a hero running their stuff at the extreme. racing for a million bucks or pink slips it would be a different story. not sure about anybody else but i already burned down one piston this year and thats one too many