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i wish i would of went to college and learned gas,fluid and thermodynamics because thats stuff you need to know to understand engines. was too busy drinking beer screwing around instead of learning somethin

you learn as you go. ever wonder how much your builder really knows ? i doubt the worlds top GP tuners were calling packard or k&t for advice. regardless how much you think you know, theres always some with alittle more knowledge and bigger bank roll to fund the testing. but even the top dogs had to start at the bottom

what if all the members pitched in a few bucks to purchase 2 pile of shit old stock bikes. take them to a site sponsor dyno and run them full tilt. one with 16:1 klotz and other with 50:1 amsoil to see which one holds up longer at balls to the wall full throttle until they shit the bed

i dont see where the $14,000 went. probly has a chinese crank and a set of bills pipes. that dont add up to 14K

if all the builders were gone you guys would be a sad bunch of slow bikes scratchin your nutz how to go alittle faster. somebody better pick up the torch

just got a new left hand cut bur from CC few days ago. definatly a good bur to have. headband magnification glasses is also real handy

im usually down there that weekend. got a 300cc 2wheeler. about 215lbs with a measly 50hp. maybe i could get in on the action

doing your own engine work is a fun hobby to get into. it was for me anyways. some people just ride and arent interested in the mechanical aspect of how everything works and i can respect that

182 is for smaller bore engines. but i suppose you could use it on any size bore. i dont think it extends like the 1mc and wont be as heavy duty. anything over 100cc i think you would want the 1mc but thats just a guess because ive never messed with anything smaller than 250cc 66mm bore

the bikes that will be racing what do they weigh ?

how much does the average 350 bike weigh?

i dont believe that motor runs in reverse. the SR is what you want. alot of times you need to cut both directions

cool. i might of missed it but i didnt see any mention of how to chamfer. thats important and one of the first things anybody should learn. maybe the chamfering is on the 2nd CD hahahahha. gotta pay another $25 to find out how

does the package say made in taiwan ?

i still cant imagine what a bolt on powervalve will look like. doesnt sound like hes gonna post any pictures

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic=468458&st=30 ktm site. have to be a member to see it. this is what he says Secondly I am just finalizing designs for a bolt on 'powervalve' which can be adapted to most non PV two stroke engines. the first test will be on a 421 Cub (big bore/stroker banshee with CPI race cylinder) as it has an enormous flat spot at 5000rpm. Removing that flat spot without hurting the top end will make the bike not only easier to ride but it will also be a very popular commercial product. You haven't read about it because I don't want anyone stealing my idea as its so simple.

dude on another site said he has a genius idea how to put a simple PV on the 421 cub because aparently theres a flat spot at 5k rpm or so he says. dont cubs spend most of their time well above 5k rpm ? mostly for drag racing is what i thought the cubs purpose was. wouldnt a lower exh roof screw up the blowdown ? ive never seen a cub first hand so im just guessing with the transfers where they are it wouldnt run well with the exh lowered. just trying to make sense of what that knucklehead is saying. said every 2stroke works its best at 188/130 then you tune for the desired power with changes in the pipe

not sure when easter weekend is but will anybody be there then ?

ironman chromolys are pretty good but alittle pricey. only slightly heavier than aluminum but hella lighter than normal steel

ya i have some cartridge rolls in 3 different grits i think that i could use on the bore edge and use the carbides farther back into the port. done alot of work on my own jugs before but none ever had plating. ideally ya its easier to have the walls bare so ill do the best i can with the situation. worst case ill fuk up the plating and have it redone. aint nothing but money. ill be at work tomorow makin more

thnx man. ya i know its risky. just didnt know if there was a certain bit that might make it less risky. its a brand new cylinder with plating already on it. thought about removing the plating but that adds $250 to the project but it might be what i have to do

cant do it. i refuse to be a sheep like your self

any of you dildos even held a porting tool, ya i didnt think so . just looking for a simple answer from somebody that has worked with a plated cylinder before, will my carbide bits cut through the nikisil fine or is there a special bit i need ?

any site sponsors or anyone thats done porting give me advice. will the regular double cut carbide bit work on the nikisil without chipping it or do i need some special bit ? any certain way you want to push or pull the bit across the plating to make it easier ? i have one real small diamond bit for chamfering but mostly i have the carbide double cuts like these http://www.carbidebur.com/longshank/longshank.htm

never been to dumont but i want to check it out after the first of the year when i have some vacation time at work. is there any big weekends in january, february or march ? and whats the weather at that time of year ? can anyone post directions from mapquest how i get there from the salt lake utah area ?