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ya probly with a chassis thats completly open it might have little difference either way. if there was a fairing that could hold in the heat i guess a shielded box would probly be a good idea

i believe this is true. keep anything that can preheat the air as far away from the carbs as possible. or build a large airbox that can sheild out the heat. either around the filters or around the carb and filter might even be better if theres enough available space to do so

i dont see the raised window hurting anything. test it and report back what you find wristpin high up in the piston isnt my preference for the reasons ive already stated. i say this hypothetically because every situation may not be the same but it can lead to shortcircuits in engines with aux ports and decrease the trans opening size

your implying that all 2t engines have the same efficiency through each cycle which simply isnt true. even with a well desingned setup from airbox to pipe i think the best you could hope for is the reeds popping open around bdc or slightly after. a lesser engine may not see inflow until the piston is well on its way up

i dont think theres a exact answer for that. if your not dropping the cylinder pressure fast enough you may not have much inflow untill the piston has covered the transfers and well on its way up. shitty pipe design, not enough blowdown, transfers that dont flow well etc. but its been said that a well designed system can start pulling through the reeds somewhere around bdc

how high up is the pin located ? high located pins dont seem favorable from what ive seen on my own engines. it reduces the transfer entrace so the piston side skirting has to be raised which created a shortcircuit through the aux exh ports. this wont be a problem if you dont have auxillaries but never the less it may close off the transfer entrance unless wiseco raised the side skirt as well. if the side skirt isnt raised you may benefit from boyesn ports so theres a larger easy path direct to the transfer. this is why i prefer super long rods and wrist pins located fairly low. it gives you a large transfer opening plus plenty of side skirt to cover the auxillaries at tdc

now i think of it , without going back to the early 80's banshee is the only cylinder reed off the top of my head that doesnt use some type of boyesen port. well and maybe the blaster also

a wiseman once said all transfer ports should be able to recieve mixture from the reeds. boyesen ports would have a less complicated path and likely be a better choice but the piston windows should still be better than nothing

i thought i read something about the purpose of the steel basket. make the engine narrower from side to side. steel was probly the perfect idea because it could be more compact and still have good strength. i doubt there would much if any difference in weight from the thinner steel basket or larger alloy basket in previous years. plus they incorporated the ring gear as one with the basket. so i imagine its probly lighter than a person would think

if i know calvin he didnt put these holes just to save weight. wouldnt a piston window that never closes serve a similar purpose

anybody tried these ? i never have but the idea sounds good. aluminum basket with steel inserts over the fingers http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barnett-Clutch-Basket-Billet-For-Yamaha-YFZ350-Banshee-87-06-/191199013363?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c845969f3&vxp=mtr

steel clutch basket might not be a totally bad idea depending on the design as a whole. the new ktm have steel basket. but the plates and basket are more compact so your not giving away a bunch of weight. also the gear and basket are machined as one. and use a large bellville spring instead of the standard 6 small coil springs. they work pretty good i have to say. but using a steel basket of the same dimensions as a alloy one would most likely be a boat anchor

i didnt notice the date. im sure he figured it out. i hope

i dont think its a matter of nobody wanting to give out info. more like only 3 or 4 people would have relevant information to give out and they never post. you may have several problems. but if the exh is rediculously high that may be one of em.

i hear ya especially if you have a day job and little time. nights and weekends you dont get a hell of alot accomplished it doesnt seem

have someone else touch it up then you take the credit hahah. why not just do it all yourself

i think theres many uses for methanol besides fuel. automotive grade is what you want. i highly doubt thats what they sell at your homedepot. they dont sell it at home depot in the USA that ive ever seen. race tracks or fuel distributors normally always have it or can get it. you better do some research first. typically you mix it with castor and need your fuel system set up for it. plus if you get it on your hand you go blind

nice job and i cant say your doing any wrong. maybe theres a few things for you to consider though. inline twin with cylinders crowded together has a bad side affect of making the tunnels mostly straight up and down. at the top where they make the turn and head into the cylinder your better off making that a gradual turn if at all possible. 90* bend will slow the momentum and energy. so i think youll be better off keeping somewhat of a upward angle into the cylinder so you dont end up with a sharp turn in the tunel. you can start at say 30* and test it then its no problem to lower the angle if you want. but if you start at 10* right from the get go the only way to bring the angle back up is to raise the window height or use epoxy but you dont want to go down that road. intake side looks good but you have alot of sharp corners everywhere. air will go around a corner much easier with a radius and the larger the radius the better

its never easy or fast thats for sure. if you cut in new angles it can get real tedious

toomey site says you suppose to leave the crossover tube on. just sayin

esr i think has 72.5 wiseco with 18mm pin also. not sure on part # though. you have several (atleast 3 that i know of) options in 72.5 with 18mm pin if you need 72mm i think theres a few bikes using that size so you should have several options there also. if you cant find them special ones im sure something else will work fine

712MO7250 is a 72.5 with 18mm pin . 536MO7250 is another one. they shouldnt be much more than 100 bucks i wouldnt think

ok your using 24mm lower pin and 18mm upper ? i thought it might of been 22 lower so thats why i asked about the trench

why does some poeple use so much advance. wont that take heat out of the pipe and not rev as well ?

do you know if the 125 rod needs a deeper trench making the cases to thin ?