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by the amount of dirt in there it appears the previous owner didnt have them either

theres a list a mile long of little things that could probly get you 1/4hp here and there. im thinking a couple hp on the plug is unlikely but then again ive never messed around much with different plugs though. never indexed them in certain directions either, which is something ive heard may have have slight gains but to me its not worth the hassle to try and find out for fuk sakes why are you even asking, go test the plug and see if its true. should be easy enough . put some epoxy in your transfers while your at it. then youll have a answer for that also ive never been the type to rely on other people to make up my mind for me. i would rather find the answer myself. now go to the garage and get to work

you wont be able to make a decent shaped tunell no matter what you do. spread the cylinders a few inches then you might be able to do something worth while

im sure alot of people say that until they buy a couple things and find out theyre in way over their head

anyone tried one of these timing plates ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-BILLET-ADJUSTABLE-TIMING-STATOR-PLATE-DRAG-RACING-/221434378052?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338e847744&vxp=mtr

ok i see what hes saying. transfers go straight up and turn sharp into the cylinder. no there aint a whole lot you can do about it. cylinders are to close together to do much. depending what upward angle your wanting them to enter the cylinder at, you could probly use some epoxy but i dont think it will make a hell of alot of difference because the lower portion of the tunell is still going to be mostly straight up but ya with some clever epoxy work you could probly lessen the sharp turn into the cylinder. this is idealy what you would want but unfortunatly with the cylinders so close together youll never get even close to a large sweeping radius like this

most everything has been tried i would imagine. even nonsense like swirl marks. make some good hemi domes and call it a day

i dont understand what your trying to say here. can you explain it better or show some kind of pic what your describing ?

only $1.50 from the dealer but you got it figured out

think i found most of the problem. the air screws were only 1 turn out. turned another 1/2 and it sounded better. probly 2 or 2 1/2 is where i need to be. ill try it tomorow

not sure on the threads but m8x1.25 sounds about right. the length of the threads is about 2.125". head is .125" so the total bolt length from end to end is 2.250"

well sometimes sealer wont help because the leak is through the gasket material. thats why its important to use high qaulity gaskets. i dont have alot of experience with the yamaha gaskets yet but from working on honda and ktm the oem stuff is typically the way to go. with aftermarket brands you never know what your going to get sometimes. now some engines may require special thickness gaskets or special shapes and what not but in those situations i recomend using something like klingersil. its about the best material on the market. ive done a few engines where i needed to lift the cylinder for various reasons with thicker gaskets and i always use klingersil because it hasnt failed me yet. ive even stacked the shit under cylinders and never a problem. 4300 is mostly what i use but theres alot of other materials http://thermosealinc.com/index.cfm/m/4/s/3/ss/33.cfm

i just noticed you can get a new complete oem crankshaft for $438 from service honda

in the dirtbike world, hotrods crankshaft assemblies are at the bottom of the qaulity list, right next to wiseco. not sure how they hold up for the banshee stuff though. if you want to avoid china and taiwan stuff as much as possible you could probly put some prox rods and lower pin on the hotrods webs. you can check into it yourself but from my research the 03.2310F prox rod should go on the hotrod webs but youll need to cut the pin length down about 4mm. simple as pie for a machinist or any legitimate crank shop. i think k&t has some billet rods but im not sure of the details on them

thats weird. im 99% sure the '03 i just took the cages out of had original oem gaskets. 11yrs old aint bad. probly could reuse em but for a couple bucks it aint worth it. give em a try sometime

alot of sealers say dont use in contact with gas if you reed the package but ive never had a problem with any of it. got a couple that been together for years with permatex ultra black and no problems

get some oem gaskets and be done with it. alot of that aftermarket shit is garbage. shouldnt need any sealer but you can use it if you want.

them sumbitches should be in the scrap bin. wouldnt pay $10 for that garbage

i looked there but seen no chart. some dude posted a link to a bunch of stuff but for some reason i cant download it. you figure there would be a chart in one of the manuals but i dont see one. if it has 200 main and the rest is most likely stock what should i be using for 6,500' ? looked at the plugs and the mains aint bad plus it runs pretty good on the topend so i know the mains are in the ballpark. problem is its real boggy at low rpm. if its idling and you try to rev it it boggs then eventually the rpm will go up. never messed with these mikunis either. got keihins on all my other junk

its a shame they didnt put any aux ports in there. they really help alot especially if theres enough material to make them large. i built one last summer but never could get it to run right. was using a cr500 lectron needle from packard but i dont think it was the right one i needed. did alot of tuning and got it sort of running decent on the dirt but soon as it hit sand with a paddle the fuker kept stuttering. turned the needle and powerjets every which way but never got it sorted out. have another cylinder for it im gonna port real soon on the second vid you can hear the stutter but i couldnt figured out what the hell was causing it start grinding on this one pretty soon. it will go on the lower end of the bike in the vids

naw probly just get a modqaud clutch cover if it will fit a direct drive lockup under it with 8 plate basket. if not then ill think of something else

got the clymers and yamaha manual but dont see any chart in either book. is there a chart around here ? main is 200. not sure what everything else is but probly stock. seems to go pretty good in higher rpm but low rpm its real boggy. 6,500' 70f. also what plug is it supposed to have ? yamaha manual says b8es. clymers says br8es. what im wondering if its supposed to be resistor or not

i got a ridgid pipe wrench from the hardware store. it was just the inner nut was a bit loose. tightened it alittle and all is well

ya i dont have a giant pipe wrench. probly head over to sears or ace hardware and see what they got

i got similar problem. sprocket hub piece is alittle loose. hoping i can just tighten the big nuts and be good. now to find a wrench that big